1. Boost gauge hookup - looks like I have to Tap into the intake housing. Started to remove the housing now. Removed the hose clamp leading to the intercooler. Removed the dipstick tube bolt, the 4 housing bolts near the heater. Noticed the bolts have orange sealant on them. I plan to smear some RTV orange on them before I reinstall them. Looks like I have to remove two wires/studs. Looks like the heater has a gasket.

a. Before I complete the removal and have to replace the upper heater gasket - is there a better way to do this?
b. Can I just tap into the top of the housing with the hose removed and suck the metal particles out with a shop vac?
c. Can I get the heater gasket from any parts store?

Pyro Gauge - opened box and discovered one of the studs on the back was loose (so was the nut) - the directions say not to loosen the nuts. Also discovered the extra nuts needed to mount the gauge wiring are missing.

 

Why are you tapping the manifold? you can use the blank plug to the left of the MAP senser.

 

Great! What hardware do I need to install the tubing there? My setup came with a 1/8NPT fitting. I'm assuming there is an adapter I can screw the fitting into, then into the plug.

 

Yep. Very easy install. The adapter is about $10. I can't remeber where I ordered mine form, but I know it was either Diesel Injection Service or Diesel Power Products. This adapter is not listed on their product websites. Call them.

 

I went to local auto parts store and bought a 3/4 to 1/2 brass bushing and 1/2 to 1/4 and then a 1/4 to 1/8 male worked great. Cost about 10 bucks and doesn't look bad either.But if you want to wait and order the fitting that would be great. Jake

 

;D<br><br>Thanks for your help, folks. I'm going to do the 3/4...1/8 setup. I'll also use teflon tape or pipe sealant on the threads per Tim's pm.<br><br>Is it possible the orange RTV I noticed on the intake bolts is some sort of locktite or other thread locking gunk?<br><br>Any help on my other questions would be appreciated too.<br><br>JR

 

DawgII,
If you look hard enough, you might find a 3/4 to 1/8 adapter. I know they make them. I couldn't find it when I did mine but I was able to go 3/4 to 1/4, then to 1/8.
You don't have to do it this way, but it makes the fittings shorter and looks nicer.

Chris

 

This shows mine tapped into the air horn.
Gotta look kinda close to see it.
I removed the Air horn to drill and tap, and reused the gasket.
5 bolts and one hose clamp to remove.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...96&amp;pid=676

 

EGT guage install went to hell - Tapped the manifold (1/4), but my egt probe is too big - the probe only turns twice before it barely touches the bottom of the manifold. Not sure what I'm going to do. I have a 1/4 plug if I dont use the hole so I'm not dead in the water.<br><br>I'm going Home depot and Lowes tomorrow to find a 1/4 male/female adapter. If I can't find a sub, I'll probably just install the probe post turbo in the elbow....sigh.<br><br>Anyone ever heard of an adjustable probe?

 

what brand of probe do you have? Typically the probe slides within the 1/4&quot; insert and is held @ the desired length by a compression nut. Also where did you drill? Something doesn't sound right.<br>Tim

 

Isspro make an adjustable probe that slides up and down in fitting, it is what I had to use. Part # R658

 

On your EGT installation, it sounds like you did not use a Pipe Tap?? The pipe tap is tapered so the more you tap it, the farther in the fitting will go?? When I did mine, I almost think I went to deep [undecided]

 

Used a 1/4 npt. The probe wasn't adjustable - I did fix the problem by buying the right combo of fittings - Next time it will be adjustable though.