Left the lights on while at work and drained both batteries (horn wouldn't even work). Tried to get a jump start from a co-workers (small) car and quit when we noticed smoke coming from his alternator area (whoops). Since my batteries were over 4 years old, replaced both with two new ones (charged and ready to go). Engine turns over fine, but I'm not getting any fuel pressure. The pump is not priming (it should come on for ~ 5 seconds when I first turn on the ignition). Is there something that would prevent the fuel pump relay from turning on with the ignition? Something I need to reset? I didn't have my tools with me to check for voltage, so I will have to go back over the weekend to get it running. I need any/all suggestions before heading back to try to fix it. Thanks, Frank

 

I wounder if you had a bad lift pump and when your battery died the pump lost its prime??? just a guess...
any codes???
key "on" key "off" 3x for codes.....

 

I Vote LOST prime on the motor, maybe bad lift pump, YOU should know better than that to try and jump start a cummins with somthing other than a cummins, the safe way is if the volts in the batterys are that low they are trash and replace them so they don't leave you stranded this winter. also if you do jump it USE two Sets of cables and hook to both batterys on both trucks and USE Real high quality cables.

 

I replaced my factory lift pump with the AirDog immediately after buying the truck two years ago. The AirDog has a warning light that comes on whenever the FP drops below 5psi -- it's not coming on, and my FP is at 0. The fuel pump has a bypass system, so as long as it receives power, it should prime itself and show pressure (when bumping the starter). The issue is that I'm not getting power to the AirDog (I can also hear it when it is running). It is connected to the factory wire harness, so the factory relay is still in use. I'm heading over there this afternoon to check voltage at the factory harness, and at the AirDog. I didn't find any codes, but will check again (I was a little frustrated and may not have given it enough time to display anything). Is there anything with the PCM/ECM that needs to be reset after sitting without any power/batteries for several hours?

 

I'd make sure you have good grounds and other connections. Sometimes when you remove things or change things you can disturb marginal items and cause problems. Not really your fault, it just happens.

I'm sure there must be a fuse for the Airdog so take a close look at it. I'd be surprised if the AD went away, more likely connections...unless it got toasted while jumping.

 

sounds like you lost your fuel prime or the pump is not pumping fuel, have some one turn the key as you open up the water drain on the fuel filter and see if it sprays or just drains. that will say if the pump is working. nexted step after you get fuel there. will be to start cracking open injector lines to get the fuel prime to the motor. if ya still messing with it give me PM I will be in the area sunday.

 

This may be going a different direction. I wasn't able to spend much time on the truck Saturday due to heavy rain. I was able to check the fuses in the two main boxes: on inside driver's side dash, and under the hood in the box next to driver's side battery. Only fuse blown was for parking lights (didn't make sense). I noticed when the ignition was turned on that the ASD relay was buzzing/clattering loud and fast. One time I noticed the clattering stopped, I heard a "click" from the direction of the FPCM / engine heater grid area (?), and then the ASD relay started clattering again. I was standing at the fuse box so I couldn't tell exactly where the click came from. I swapped the ASD relay with the horn relay but had the same clattering results.

I spoke to a mechanic friend late yesterday and he had me "retrace my steps" from the jump-start attempt. I remembered when hooking up the jumper cables that there was more sparks than I've seen before. The owner of the jump vehicle hooked up the cables to his battery while I hooked up the cables to mine. When I saw the sparks, I moved the ground cable to a new location. As I was moving my ground cable, he reconnected the cables on his battery -- I didn't see him reverse the ends, but it's possible he started with them on the wrong post. So.... if we assume the cables were crossed, where should I start looking. Besides the two main fuse boxes, are there any additional fuses I can check (what and where)? Is there an easy way to tell if the ECM, PCM, or FPCM were damaged? What would cause the ASD relay to continuously reset? I really don't want to have it towed to a dealer so they could run their diagnostics, but if that is my only hope I need to get this running ASAP. Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions. Frank

 

Codes???????

 

No codes -- not sure if I'm doing it right, if there is nothing to display, or if the control module is toast. Turn key on/off three times and then back on, and do not notice any change in the dashboard display. My understanding is that any codes would show up in the milage display, flashing one at a time. My milage display stays at the odometer reading -- no change for at least 10 seconds. Is it possible to turn the key on/off too fast or too slow?

 

Thanks to The Fox Man4, I now have my truck back home. The 20 amp "jcase" fuse for the (engine control) was also blown, but my older eyes didn't see the slight gap through the clear top. This is the first time I've encountered jcase fuses, so I didn't know what to look for -- guess I should have pulled and tested all of them (or used a bright light and my reading glasses). Cole jumped right in and had it running in less than 5 minutes (his younger eyes saw it immediately... with the help of a bright light). Thanks!!!

While driving it home, the volts dropped down to ~ 8 (triggering the "check gauges" warning light) -- I kept watching it, but it stayed steady all the way home. I shut it down and manually checked the driver-side battery -- it was at 12.31 volts. I turned the ignition back on, and the voltmeter came up to ~ 12. I started it back up, and the volts stayed solid at 12 (no movement in the needle). I manually checked the volts at the battery while it was running, and had 12.24 volts -- I know it should have been over 13. I checked for codes, and had P1682 and P1693. I pulled the alternator out and will have it tested in the morning. It's sad to think that I'm actually hoping the alternator test indicates it needs to be replaced so I don't have to keep looking for anything else that I burned up...

Thanks again to Cole, and to to other DTR members that have helped me in the past. It's nice knowing that our members are willing to do what they can to help each other. Frank