Bad Batteries
12-10-2005, 12:01 PM
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Bad Batteries
I believe my batteries are shot! They appear to be 2002 models and I checked the service outlets on top of both batteries and noting!!!! All was bone dry. I refilled with water (seemed like each battery held a gallon!!!) and still nothing. Just double checking but looks like new batteries uh???
12-10-2005, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Tayloe08
I believe my batteries are shot! They appear to be 2002 models and I checked the service outlets on top of both batteries and noting!!!! All was bone dry. I refilled with water (seemed like each battery held a gallon!!!) and still nothing. Just double checking but looks like new batteries uh???
12-10-2005, 01:30 PM
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Just replaced the batteries but tight times lead to no red tops. Yes I know I will kick myself after I realized what I did but money just would not permit. Anyway I relpaced both batteries with 1000ca and 800cca. Now when I crank it the voltage gauge goes to about 11v or 12v and takes about 15-20 sec. and jumps to a little over 14v! Could it be my alternator is bad also??? What is the best thing to do from here?
12-10-2005, 01:40 PM
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Was it cold when you observed the voltage fluctuation? Mine does take a maybe second for the voltage to come up when I first start it normally.
12-10-2005, 01:46 PM
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Today it is in the mid to low 40's. This is my first diesel so I don't know for sure what is cold for a diesel. With that said I found my heater block cord today and need to know when I should use it (temps ???) Thanks for the help!!!
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12-10-2005, 01:53 PM
#8
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Your voltage levels will go up and down while the air inlet heaters are cycling. This is normal. You don't need to plug in until the temp goes down to the 20's. I have my truck on a timer so the heaters come on two hours before I leave, that way I am not going bankrupt from my electric bill.
I'm assuming you know to to turn the key on until the "Wait to Start" light goes out before you crank her.
I'm assuming you know to to turn the key on until the "Wait to Start" light goes out before you crank her.
12-10-2005, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mhuppertz
Your voltage levels will go up and down while the air inlet heaters are cycling. This is normal. You don't need to plug in until the temp goes down to the 20's. I have my truck on a timer so the heaters come on two hours before I leave, that way I am not going bankrupt from my electric bill.
I'm assuming you know to to turn the key on until the "Wait to Start" light goes out before you crank her.
I'm assuming you know to to turn the key on until the "Wait to Start" light goes out before you crank her.
12-10-2005, 02:25 PM
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A delay of 15-20 sec before your voltage gauge jumps to 14 volts is normal. If you observe the WAIT TO START lamp (whenever temperature is less than 60F), you will notice voltage fluctuations for several minutes while the intake preheater grids cycle on and off. This is normal and is controlled by temp sensor and speedometer. Read your OWNERS MANUAL and the COLD STARTING INSTRUCTIONS on your sun visor. The grid heaters are the reason we need two batteries, they cause a huge current draw, more than the alternator can provide. Optima red tops (or the copycat [private label?] Champion XLT at Sam's) for $100 are good choices to withstand the abuse and avoid acid damage to your truck.
Plug in your block heater for a few hours before starting whenever temperature drops below 40F. Heater time depends on temp, wind, and parking situation. I park in my garage, though unheated it stays warmer than outside and wind does not accellerate heat loss, so I need fewer hours to heat the block. If you park outside in the wind and temp drops to 10F you might have to remain plugged in all night to keep the block warm. In any case, you can keep it plugged in 24/7 if you wish, but you will pay for 7.5 KW per hour. Many owners use a heavy duty timer in the extension cord. You will find many threads on cold weather starting on this website if you conduct a SEARCH.
The combination of block heater and grid heater (and a decent state of tune) allows our CTD to fire off smoothly and cleanly in sub-zero weather. When I start up at 10F my garage does not fill with dense smoke, it's not much different than in the summer.
Plug in your block heater for a few hours before starting whenever temperature drops below 40F. Heater time depends on temp, wind, and parking situation. I park in my garage, though unheated it stays warmer than outside and wind does not accellerate heat loss, so I need fewer hours to heat the block. If you park outside in the wind and temp drops to 10F you might have to remain plugged in all night to keep the block warm. In any case, you can keep it plugged in 24/7 if you wish, but you will pay for 7.5 KW per hour. Many owners use a heavy duty timer in the extension cord. You will find many threads on cold weather starting on this website if you conduct a SEARCH.
The combination of block heater and grid heater (and a decent state of tune) allows our CTD to fire off smoothly and cleanly in sub-zero weather. When I start up at 10F my garage does not fill with dense smoke, it's not much different than in the summer.
12-13-2005, 04:35 PM
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i'm going through cables and batteries on my truck right now because i let them run dry a while ago like you did. CHECK YOUR STARTER CONTACT AND PLUNGER! it's a cummins recon, so not 180k on it.
anyway, i'm putting new 2/0 cables and the napa military ends with huge ring ends. i figured since i'm going through the work of that i'd pull off the starter and check it out. horrible contacts like i said above and a TON of carbon buildup, the armature was all plugged up with oily carbon dust.
i ordered the super contacts and plunger from larryb's website, i like the idea of having more area for the contact plates.
so, since your bats were down, it was hard on your starter. apparently if the contacts stick in there it can kick on the start side of the fuel shutoff solenoid and possibly get hot enough to start a fire under there since that side of the solenoid is only for momentary use.
anyway, i'm putting new 2/0 cables and the napa military ends with huge ring ends. i figured since i'm going through the work of that i'd pull off the starter and check it out. horrible contacts like i said above and a TON of carbon buildup, the armature was all plugged up with oily carbon dust.
i ordered the super contacts and plunger from larryb's website, i like the idea of having more area for the contact plates.
so, since your bats were down, it was hard on your starter. apparently if the contacts stick in there it can kick on the start side of the fuel shutoff solenoid and possibly get hot enough to start a fire under there since that side of the solenoid is only for momentary use.
12-14-2005, 07:14 PM
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plug it it
I plug my 92 in for at least an hour in anything below freezing. The other week i was at a buddies place who only has solar and a generator for power so I could only plug in while the generator was going, it was -25C ( i live in canada) and the did start up. But any colder and i'd keep it plugged in 24hrs.