My pressure bnleeds off after the initial 30-sec. bump...

Having your FP drop off to 2 psi when the engine is rev'ed makes it sound like your pump is going TU?

Sounds like you are losing prime in the system, and then pumping air into the VP, causing you to require a bleeding to get it running - I am not aware of a check ball in the pump, but that would make sense - you could actually put one inline between the pump and the tank, low-pressure activated (2psi?) to keep the line full? Just a wild thought, there.....

- or, get a new pump! You will need to get a FP gauge installed, the sooner the better!

 

It sounds like my lift pump is bad and if so what pump should I replace it with and where should I get the new one at. This truck is all stock but I wouldn't mind doing some upgrades but one step at a time, I am just learning about diesels and one thing I am learning fast is that you can spend some serious $$$ on these things. I have a second truck that I can drive so I can orders parts and wait on them if need be. Also wondering about my options for best fuel guages in the truck, what kind and where. I am checking into the ones listed in previous post but am open to other ideas also. I almost live in this truck so need to make it a nice home ; ) thanks for all the help John

 

You can get the In-Tank Pump from DC, go with an aftermarket Holley Blue (~150-ish), or upgrade to a more dependable set up, the Walbro or FASS II (~$350-ish), or full-on FASS (~500-ish?). I would be concerned about whether or not the VP has been mortally wounded, if the FP was not running solidly.....

Fuel gauges - Isspro, DiProcal, Autometer, check the site advertisers for these, you may consider getting it all done at once, FP, Pyro, Boost gauges....you can A-pillar mount these, get a dash pod, or fab one of your own making

 

There are several after market fuel pumps out there and a lot of gages to choose from. If you will check the "Links" above, you will find DTR vendors that sell these things.

If you search "fuel pump" you will find a lot of info. I have had the FASS HPFP on mine for going on two years and could not be more satisfied with it's performance and ease of installation.

Good Luck,

 

not familiar with Pyro?? or boost guages??

 

Pyro - Pyrometer for checking the exhaust gas temps coming out of the exhaust manifold in front of the turbo. Excessive temps will cause engine or piston damage.

Boost Gage - Makes sure you have no leaks in the intercooler, intake air system. Leaks will cause loss of power......

Short, but I hope you get the idea.........

 

Part# 4090046 Cummins aka Campaign pump $64.00? from Cummins direct if I remember right.

You may have to give them the number - guy I talked to didn't know they had it.

 

Man Check The Check Valve...it Is Located At The Return Line On The Ip. Willing To Bet Money.

 

You can get the check valve at Dodge.$40.00. Another wat to check is to get your pump to cycle for 20 secs. and listen through the fuel inlet and see if you hear fuel running back into the tank. From the sound of your symptoms, you could have parked your truck next to mine a while back(HAHA).To end on a good note...mine has run better than ever.

 

Didn't realize that it had a check valve. It makes sense that it would but I didn't know it. will check it out and thanks for the help. John

 

It sounds like you have the same problem I had for months. It turn out I had two problems at the same time. First, now that you know where the return line comes out of the vp44, take a 19mm socket and remove the banjo bolt attaching the return line to the pump. Inside that banjo is a checkvalve. Cover the small hole on the side and try to blow through the bolt. If you can, it's junk. The part # is 3941156 and I just got one at my Cummins dealership for $25.18. Make sure and get new sealing washers also.
Next, clean around the two wires that go into the black grommet on the top of the fuel filter canister. Get it good and clean and check it for the smallest of seepage type leaks. There have been alot of problems with that setup and the parts are no longer available off the shelf as a result. If your fuel heater is leaking, you may be able to find someone with a spare cannister on this site. That's what I did.
In the mean time, you can gently place vice grips on the section of rubber line between fuel filter and vp44 after shutdown. This will hold your prime. Just be sure to remove it before starting again... Good luck

 

^^^^^Oh you can still buy the '99 fuel filter canister from the dealership. I had the leak two weeks ago. I went to the dealership to buy a new top. Cant buy it in peices but you can buy the entire canister for $1,000.00. They understood when I didnt buy it.

 

I am glad to find this site. All the help is great. Have to work for the next several days, will have to drive my other truck in the mean time. Will keep you up to date. John

 

97 won't start.........electric lift pump on this year? If yes it is not running

 

That's the song and dance they gave me. The dealership said I shouild upgrade to a 2001 setup and put the pump in the tank. I told them to pound sand. I then talked to the guy at the Cummins shop and he had a setup for a bit over $250. I got a used one from another DTR member for $50. Did yours leak right at the heater wire grommet?