Yesterday I was driving my truck down the raod and it started to surge. I drove a a couple miles more then it backfired and died. So I pulled over and tried to start it and it fired right back up. So I went into town to juice it up and drove it about ten miles further on the freeway. As I was getting on it started to surge again but eventually went away. When I got to the next town it died at a red light. So I started it again but, It would only run for a few seconds at a time. And then finally it would not start at all. So when I had it towed home I checked to see if I could here the fuel pump running when I turned on the key and I heard nothing. Even when I cranked it for a split second to keep the fuel pump running longer. So I unplugged the plug to the fuel pump module to see if there was any power going to the pump but I didn't get any but then again I don't know if the brain of my truck needs to do a continuity check to send energy to the fuel pump. So at this point I am stumped can anybody help? And yes it has a new fuel filter in it. I have only had this truck 6 months.Thanks

 

Did you check for codes? Turn key to run and click back to just before off three times and it will give you the codes.

 

I get a P0628 do you know what this means. Also thanks for the pointer I knew there was a way to get to the codes but didn't know how to get them.

 

P0628 Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Low, or Fuel Lift Pump Control Circuit Low

Did you try to start the truck when the pump was unplugged? That is when I got this code on mine. But my lift pump was bad and I had the exact symptoms you have.

 

I did check to see if I was getting any power to the lift pump wires. So to answer your question yes. But if I disconnect the batteries will this clear the code? And should I try to start the truck after reconnect the terminals to see if it produces another code? also is the lift pump a term used for what most people think of as the fuel pump in the fuel tank? I a little confused on that one this is my first diesel truck.

 

I started mine and it ran for about 2 minutes with the wire disconnected.

After that I didn't start it again until I installed the FASS-II system. This setup calls for the battery to be disconnected and after completion the truck runs fine and code is gone also.

 

Your lift pump is mounted on the rear of the fuel filter housing. Unless you had the upgraded pump done.Then it would be in your fuel tank. I would suggest that you have your test light ready and bump the starter and check the plug to pump.I believe the pump will run for 20-25 seconds.When you turn the key to on it only runs for like 1 second.You have to bump the starter.

 

I found the lift pump on the back of the fuel filter. And I will check the power when my wife gets back. So, is there no pump in the fuel tank at all? That is where I checked the power plug as I thought there might be a pump in the tank. I don't notice the pump running for any length of time when I bump the engine.Does the lift pump draw the fuel from the fuel tank by itself? Thanks

 

No there is no pump in the tank on 2003 model. Only the new trucks and trucks that had the retrofit done. Yes the lift pump draws fuel from the tank. The pump should run when the starter is bumped.

Maybe you were checking the sender wires for fuel gauge?

 

The symptoms sound like the lift pump is history. Disconnect the negative battery cables, then turn on the lights to kill any residual power stored in the capacitors for the air bag system, then reconnect the lift pump and do a system purge (owners manual section on filter change will explain what to do) to see if it is actually pumping.

Never, but never disconnect any of the fuel system or any of the engine or A/C system sensors with the batteries connected. This is a bit like Russian Roulette, sometimes you get away with it and other times you fry your ECM.

 

Your right, I was checking the wrong thing. So if the voltage is low to the lift pump is it the lift pump? Is that code normal for when the lift pump takes a dump? Thanks

 

When checking for voltage all that is going to tell you is that the ecm is commanding the pump to run. To actually check the pump you would have to check volume. I believe this is how the dealer does it. For normal people like us we install a pressure gauge. Pressure should be around 9 PSI at idle.

From the sound of it though your pump is gone. Especially if you have voltage at the pump harness.

 

Well you guys have been great thank you very much. You have saved me allot of time. Do you know how much a stock lift pump goes for by any chance. Again thank you for your help. Maybe I can return the favor some day.

 

http://www.hoeslidiesel.com/specials.htm



Here is a webpage with a price. I would look into an aftermarket system for the future though. Get yourself a fuel pressure gauge also.

 

Nomad aren't you still under warranty? lift pump should still be covered unless you are over in mileage. dealer will install the new intank pump for you. doesn't hurt to check and save yourself some money.