ok now i have another question when i jiggle the wires on the solenoid it starts because it would it would not start this morning and when i took the wires off the intake heater it still starts could somebody tell me why please

 

I don't know about the intake heater thing, bit there is often an issue with the starter contacts which can cause troubles too. Perhaps that's the trouble.

 

ok i will check that

 

all the contacts are clean and good and tight still dont start

 

i have another question why is the wait to start light so dim then as i leave the key on for about a min. it starts to brighten up could somebody please help

 

How old are the batteries?

 

Nevermind...stupid question...first line.
But this all started with the new batteries right?

 

yea it all started with the new batteries

 

Given the intermittant nature I would have to say it is a contact issue. I imagine you have already re-connected the batteries and grounds, but your wait to start light thing is odd....why is it still on after a minute? When the grid heaters turn off...the WTS light should also, so I don't know why it is dim and brightens. Strange. I would try cleaning and re-tensioning everything. Otherwise I think I don't know. Good luck!

 

no it dont stay on the whole time i mean i will leave the key on for a min. then turn it off and then back on and it is brighter then before and where is the grid heaters at

 

ok im getting very little fuel pressure to the lift pump is it out or what and how much does it cost to replace it

 

first, you don't have any pressure to the lift pump, you should have up to 15 psi to the injection pump from the LP
second, the wait to start light is on a timer from the computer, and does not control the time the heating grids are on.... next time you try to start it, watch the amp guage after the wait to start light goes out. tell me what you see

 

the amp guage goes back up after it goes off and thats what i ment was the injection pump i have no pressure there

 

Well I have darn near the same truch you do. The heater grid is under the air intake horn which has the dipstick bolted to it. One thing it could be is that your alternator has went south, and when you last drove it the truck probably sucked the new batteries dry. I would test the batteris and see if they still have juice if they don't then you know that it is probably the alternator that died and your not going crazy! lol

I had my alternator go out on me, it's not a hard fix they have rebuilt kits for then to fix mine I think it only cost around 25 or less.Oh and this could aslo explain why you are not getting fuel pressure because it's not getting enough juice....that or your lift pump died instead.Do you have a fuel pressure guage?

 

Apps signal voltage too high
Speed control switch always high.
Are the two codes. Not very definite for no start.
How about a crank position sensor located beside vp 44. If trying to fail might generate problems mentionedl
Lift pump is working?
VP44 is coming up as a possibility.