handymantim

Now that you've replaced the grid heaters does the voltmeter show a drop in voltage and do the lights dim/bright while idling after engine start when it's cold?

If not I'm wondering if you have a bad cable or ground connection. Also, there are 2 heaters and 2 relays. The ground connections for the heaters are on the front side of the manifold with a short cable. It wouldn't hurt to remove that cable and clean the connections if you haven't already.

longbed

Have replaced the grid heater. The grids show discharge when the truck is running. The circuit for the relays is working. Both batts are new. When the truck cranks it cranks fast enough to make it rock. Just will not start cold. The heater was 98.50 still cheaper than going to dealer. THe ground wire is good front of heater. I would think fuel but pluging it in for 2 hours cannot effect that. Any other sensors to check that computer will read as incorrect for a cold start? 20 F time to go outside and check everything dead cold.

handymantim

Since you are showing a discharge when the truck is running then it ain't your grid heaters. It's something else.

If it were me I'd start with the easiest which is the fuel filter.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge. I would think that would be the next thing to check....the lift pump output.

Did you check for codes?

longbed

Checked codes Said done. No codes. Went out this morning it is warmer 30. thought it would start no problem. Would not start. Had new filter put it in . tried to start would not start. Bumped starter to fill filter no start. Get the extension cord plug in for 45 minutes. First crank no start. Second Crank long crank it starts runs great. drove around on off starts every time grid heaters cycle. Lift pump is working for sure it filled the bowl dry. Week pump low pressure maybe on initial start cold this is crazy.

handymantim

Well, I guess the next things to try are:
1. Different fuel
2. Have the truck scanned by the dealer or possibly Autozone. Some codes won't show up with the key trick. To be honest, I don't know if the Autozone scanner will pick up those codes either. The Autozone scan is free though.

Here's another idea and it was eluded to in an earlier post. I wonder if your grid heaters coming on are actually preventing the start? The only thing the block heater does is warm the coolant in the engine and if it gets warm enough the grid heaters won't come on. So I wonder if your grid heaters NOT coming on and the truck starting are related. Let the truck cool down (don't plug it in), disable the relays and then try to start it. Even though you have new batteries I wonder if there is something else going on in the grid heater system that is causing the truck to not start.

linetrash75

It can only be 2 things, 1 would be timing related, the other would be lack of compression to heat air make fuel fire. I think maybe have a look at crankshaft, and cam postion sensors if applicable, another thing chech air intake sensor, coolant temp sensors, maybe they're not reading cold enough to have the ecm advance the timing. I highly doubt youre engine is not producing enough compression heat to fire couldn't be wear out that fast.
These engines don't need the grid heaters.

Jed

dltriolo

"plug it in plug it in"

longbed

Fuel is different ran first tank down refilled fresh was the same. If i disconnect the coolant sensor what will it tell ecm. Will it tell it cold or hot? same as air sensor cold or hot? Would cam poss sensor matter with truck pluged in or not? Keep suggesstions coming im listening and will try them thanks for your help so far. Compression
; i dont think it would run so good with bad compression also i think it would have a lot of blow by and breather tube would drip oil out or i would see lots of smoke from it.

bentwings

A couple things. Please fill out your signature. Use the user cp above the forum and edit.

This is an 03 right ??? so common rail injectoin. Frankly I don't know much about these but basically a diesel needs injected vaporized fuel, air, compression and timing.

Youv'e fixed the heater air...good, I assume you have replaced the fuel filter and bled the air from it. There must be some kind of lift or transfer pump so that needs to be checked to make sure the IP is getting adequate fuel. I would look at the intake fuel lines to make sure they do not bleed air...it doesn't take much. A code reader should indicate communication with the pump module similar to the VP-44...I think ( I'm weak here). It would be hard to believe under reasonable condidtions to have toasted pistons so there is low compression, There is a crankshaft position sensor and a cam position sensor. Both are not real expensive but should show in the code reading. With all this done it would seem to me that the IP is at fault and bears more looking into. possible the injectors themselves. There has been some porblems here as I understand. Possible some of the more knowledgable guys can help out. I'm just trying to point out some directions.

longbed

I am still having problems starting cold. Would a bad temp sensor cause a no start situation. If i disconnect the temp sensor will it run like cold start up or think its warm. Today its 32F and no start plug in 45 mins and it starts . I only get the chance to check cold on sundays work the other days and cant wait to plug in for an hour. so i leave it plugged in.Still runs great all the time it is running.

kencan2

I have a 2003 as well and iam having the same problem. i have spent almost $2500 at the dealer and still no fix, if you come up with something keep me posted. The dealer put on a transfer pump did not fix it then they said i had bad injector, replaced it and still having the problem

CarpUnlimited

Longbed, I have not been on this thread for a while, have you discovered, as I did, that the cause of the hard start is a bad high pressure pump (used to be called injector pump)?

Cause of pump failure is directly related to high miles and the no sulfur fuel. When they took the sulfur out of this new fuel it left no lubrication for the pump, and they will fail without lubrication like a good additive. Since I wasn't using an additive - my pump failed. It would have been good to have had a heads up on this when the fuel was introduced 6 months ago. I have been driving diesels for over 20 years, never used an additive. But then, never had no sulfur fuel before.
Mine is beyond warranty so pretty expensive, but what else can I do. Hope yours is still under warranty.

longbed

I still cannot believe that because i plug it in for an hour this overcomes a problem with the cp3 unit. Did you get the lift pump changed or checked before the dealer said to change cp3? I have been using a fuel conditioner in my fuel all along since change over. Are the properties of cold combustion the same for the new fuel different than the old? My symptoms are the same as yours. Maybe a week cp3 with new fuel is a problem? Maybe explains the national back order on these pumps. If this is a problem there are going to be alot of mad customers at the diesel pumps. Can a fuel additive put back all of what was lost in this new LS fuel? I am out of warrenty also. I refuse to spend big money on this problem if heat is all it needs to work and plugging it in for an hour or two works i will do it. A generator when im not near power would be a cheaper option then a new cp3. I am going to change my lift pump just as a last attempt . I got a low mileage stock lift pump from someone who changed to glacier system. How many miles on your truck CARP? To the guy who spent $2500 at the dealer what did they change?

CarpUnlimited

Yes, they pressure checked the lift pump, it was working great. They hooked it up to diagnostic, no codes. The check on the high pressure pump showed it was not putting out anything to speak of. I am surprised it ran at all. But the fuel economy fell off and the power was lacking. Finally it was getting hard to start warm. I could hardly get it going even when I had been driving it and it was at operating temp.

127,000 miles.

Using the fuel additive surely should have helped, but the miles may be against you. If an additive doesn't work it is time to look for a gas burner.

Heating the engine will only work for a while if it is like mine, the high pressure pump will get worse and worse.
Say, here is something you can check, does it smoke at all when you crank it cold? Mine did not.
The dealerships are no doubt getting an ear full. And it is really a federal issue, Congress mandated a changed fuel. Dodge/Cummins's engineers should have been raising a red flag for everyone about this. And I did not hear anything about it.

kencan2

The dealer put a lift pump on , and said it would take care of the problem. It seemed to work for a couple of days. Then boom no start the temp here does not get cold enough to need the plug but i started using it and it would start and i took it back to the dealer and they told me it was one of the injectors was cloged and they replaced it, pick up the truck last week and now the truck does not start without being pluged in. I would have to agree with CarpUnlimited about the problem having to with the new fuel