I have a 1996 ram 2500 cummins 12v that I just bought and am having a problem with it keeping an idle from initial startup. It runs as long as I feather the gas pedal, but will not idle above 400 rpm. Once you put it into gear it stalls, unless you feather the gas pedal. The other problem that just started is when I turn the key off, the truck continues to run, eventhough everything else shuts down(gauges, etc) This is my first cummins diesel, so any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
rod

 

hi
low idle speed on my 98 is supposed to be 840 rpm .

there is a 10 mm bolt on the rear of the pump to set it .a pain to get to .
loosen the lock nut and turn cc to increase idle ,prob 3/4 turn should get you close .

i like a little lower idle so i set mine at 750 n but it would stall anything below 550.

there is a solonoid that shuts off fuel when key is turned off that may be dirty or bad . it can be turned on and off by hand if it fails .
look for pic and info on genos garage site . www.genosgarage.com

 

I will give that a shot, that 10mm bolt is at the rear of the injection pump (right there next to the front left side of the valve cover) I take it? thanks for the HELP!!

 

At the rear toward the bottom of the pump. I know there are pictures here somewhere, but when I adjust mine, I usually lay on top of the engine and reach down behind the IP. You will need 2 10 MM wrenches, 1 to adjust from the top and the other to hold the nut on the bottom, if I remember right. Otherwise you will just turn it right back down again.

 

Second Generation Idle Adjust>
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adjustm...d_Gen-Idle.htm

 

Thanks for the help guys, that did fix the idle problem. Now I may need to buy the solenoid for the fuel shutoff as the truck continues to run once I turn the key off.

Thanks again!!

 

rodsracingteam; The other problem that just started is when I turn the key off, the truck continues to run, eventhough everything else shuts down(gauges, etc) This is my first cummins diesel, so any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
rod


I would certainly look into this issue. On a diesel, shutting down the engine is fuel controlled. The fuel shutdown solenoid just to the rear of the injection pump provides this function. When it is stuck in the on position the engine continues to run eventhough you have turned the key off. It may be a simple dirty linkage thing which cleaning and lubrication will cure. Or it may be more serious. The shutdown solenoid has two coils in it. One is an engage coil and the other is a holding coil. When you engage the starter the starter solenoid also energizes the fuel shutdown solenoid thru the fuel shutdown relay. Once the engine starts the holding coil takes over keeping the solenoid on.

When the starter solenoid wears down it can remain stuck in the engage position and thus keep the fuel shutdown solenoid engaged. This can lead to burning up the solenoid and maybe also the starter. This happened to me when I go my truck new. One day it did not shutdown and I called the dealer. While I was on the phone, the truck started to shake and then smoke filled the engine compartment. They had to change out the solenoid, wiring and starter. At the time, I did not know that much about diesels as this is my first diesel. I know just a little bit more now. These forums are great. Any way, just my 2 cents maybe one of the more knowledgeable members will chime in. But, do look into this issue as it can be costly.

 

ET RAM,
Thanks for the detailed info, I will look into this problem. Hopefully the only problem is just the solenoid.

Thanks again!

 

I've got a lever I pull to shut down the engine, It works great. Turn the key off and pull the lever. Works better and is much more reliable than the shut down solenoid.

 

Andy505,
Where do you buy this lever, and where do you install it on the truck?

Thanks

 

Unfortunately, they didn't give us any provision for manual shutdown on the 2nd gen injector pumps.

First off, have a look at the linkage pivot at the bottom of the shutdown solenoid. (where the cotter pin is.) It's probably all gummed up with rust and sticky. Clean it up and lube it, and hopefully your problems will disappear.

 

DON'T REPLACE THE SOLENOID!!!
Likely nothing is wrong with it unless it is very visibly burned up on the outside.
The solenoid is probably the most needlessly replaced item on a 12 valve, expensive too. The solenoid is a very simple, sturdy device that will easily last the life of the truck. It either works or it doesn't, there is no such thing as one getting weak.
The problem is almost always a corroded blue wire from the driver's side battery or a bad relay on the firewall. The rubber boot that protects the solenoid can fall apart allowing gunk and rust to bind the solenoid, clean it up and replace the boot.
Relay and boot are availible for a good price here http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

 

I checked the red power lead harness clip to the solenoid shutoff, and it does have power when the key is on, and no power when the key is off. The rod that connects to the lever, where the cotter pin rests is all rusted and gummed up, so I will take the solenoid out and try cleaning the rod.

Thanks again for the info!

 

I actually did the same thing to my new truck Andy, the fuel shutoff solinoid was burnt to hell, so I took it off, loosened up the arm on the shaft for fuel on, on the injector pump and moved it so its pointed towards the radiator a bit more, and tightened the arm back up, then put a spring on it to pull it forward so it is on all the time!, then I actually used a kickdown cable off the parts dodge I had sitting here, and routed it into the cab, bolted it to the fuel arm on the pump, and wohla!, I got a nice kill switch that I can pull with 2 fingers!!,never have to worry about it not starting either!!!,
Andy.Hows the truck running BTW?? READY TO SELL IT BACK TO ME???, I love my 98, But I still miss my 97!!