Tate

Stock wheels are infact hub centric. They are also lug centric. But for strength, the fit between the wheel and the hub is what should be taking the weight, and not side loading the studs.

If the center is machined out properly, there won't be any loss in strength. They are getting opened up about 1/8".

upjeeper

ok. i've just finished the modification and installation of my new H2 rims and tires.
BY FAR the best way to clear out the excess material is with a woodworking router and a bit. if you can get a 1/2" great, i used a 3/8" diameter and it worked very well. just go slow and be careful. I tried my rotozip, die grinder with port/polish bit, and the router and hands down - use the router.

Raspy

Tate,

Hub centric is an old myth that just won't go away.

When you have eight tapered nuts driven down into eight tapered holes, that is what will center the wheel and it is what will carry the weight because there is absolutely no movement there. The center hole is a clearance hole. Even in stock form it slides over the hub and is not the same kind of fit as the tapered nuts. In other words it is not designed to carry the weight. Before the center hole could carry anything, the nuts would have to be loose enough to allow movement of the wheel. In a hub centric wheel you might have a flat washer and nut design simply holding the wheel against the flange and the center hole actually riding on a center hub protrusion. Not the case with the Dodge or H2 wheels.

Because of all that, and on the Dodge specifically, the center hole must be be opened enough to not interfere with the lug centering. If the process is done with a hole saw or router, which will not be a perfect hole, the size must be large enough to clear the hub with some tolerance so that, when the lugs center the wheel and bolt it to zero play, there will not be interference with the center hole against the hub.

The important factors are to get enough clearance in the center hole and to not completely remove the balancing taper on the back side. Then the wheel strength is not affected, the balancing can be done and the lugs can carry and center the wheel without binding.

H2s are excellent wheels that can be easily found and modified to work well with our trucks. I've done at least three sets at home with simple tools and have run them on my truck for over 175,000 miles. Often with heavy loads, towing and in the mountains. No problems of any kind with them or the four sets of tires I've run on them.

Raspy

Up,

Yeah, the router is the way to go. I did a couple of sets with a finish carbide bit and it was slick. Just spray the surface and the bit with WD40 and set the bearing to ride in the front part of the wheel opening that is already the right diameter. Several passes to get all the material you can and it looks factory fresh and goes right on. Sweet.

The router is probably the best method and leaves a machine shop finish but I've also used a large hole saw and a drum sander. Others have used die grinders and large files. All good since it's just a clearance hole.

It's also a good idea to wire brush the hub to remove any accumulated rust that might get in the way of the center hole. On they go.

Then modify the caps for a real finished look.

Fisherguy

H2's with 35's stick out a little too much IMO, I was getting crap flying all over the place and had to put flares on to keep things off the side of the truck.

There's a link in my signature telling how I did my H2's.