What is so great about FASS ???
01-06-2006, 08:31 AM
#61
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Originally Posted by Superduty
"Superduty, what else needs to be done to run the walbro? Not getting smart but I am genually curious as to what other expense/effort is involved in makeing your pump work compared to a fass."
No problem. I put a parts list in the link in the opening post. It should all be in there.
Your 05 has an in tank pump, so you'll have to remove it and put a hose where the pump was so you now have a pickup. You'll need to cut the supply line somewhere and splice the Walbro in. On the Fords the suction side uses a short splice of hose and the pressure side uses a compression fitting.
You'll need to wire the pump in. So intercept the power wires that went to the old pump and connect them to the new pump.
You'll need 2 tapped banjo bolts, which Gabes sells for $7ea. You'll need 2 hose barbs and a short piece of hose.
That is it.
"If I could get all I needed for 200 bucks and the install was just as easy I would go with the walbro."
Do the math. It shouldn't be that much.
"I am glad you brought this up because it is just about lp time for me in my quest for making safe power. I like the idea of no brushes and that would save a couple hundred bucks. Does the walbro pump enough fuel for 550 horse?"
Yep. If you do it like I did you should have a flow of 80 GPH or so, which is lots.
"That is my goal, and if it is stated above I apologize but it is late and I dont want to read all that again."
No problem. I'm happy to get the info out. Post if you need more. The article did have a better parts list in it. You will probably want to order the mount kit for the Walbro. You can bolt it to the frame rail then. That is what the Fords do. It is on the inside of the drivers framerail at about the first door.
No problem. I put a parts list in the link in the opening post. It should all be in there.
Your 05 has an in tank pump, so you'll have to remove it and put a hose where the pump was so you now have a pickup. You'll need to cut the supply line somewhere and splice the Walbro in. On the Fords the suction side uses a short splice of hose and the pressure side uses a compression fitting.
You'll need to wire the pump in. So intercept the power wires that went to the old pump and connect them to the new pump.
You'll need 2 tapped banjo bolts, which Gabes sells for $7ea. You'll need 2 hose barbs and a short piece of hose.
That is it.
"If I could get all I needed for 200 bucks and the install was just as easy I would go with the walbro."
Do the math. It shouldn't be that much.
"I am glad you brought this up because it is just about lp time for me in my quest for making safe power. I like the idea of no brushes and that would save a couple hundred bucks. Does the walbro pump enough fuel for 550 horse?"
Yep. If you do it like I did you should have a flow of 80 GPH or so, which is lots.
"That is my goal, and if it is stated above I apologize but it is late and I dont want to read all that again."
No problem. I'm happy to get the info out. Post if you need more. The article did have a better parts list in it. You will probably want to order the mount kit for the Walbro. You can bolt it to the frame rail then. That is what the Fords do. It is on the inside of the drivers framerail at about the first door.
I have an 04 that I want to put a pump on. With the exception of removing the in tank pump....do I just need to do the above? I have read your many posts on this and I have seen you diagram and pictures. Do I also need to do the blue hose at the CP3? You have also mentioned about internal and external pressure relief. What is that and do I need to add this somewhere or is it in the pump you have referenced. Thanks for the info.
01-06-2006, 12:33 PM
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Thanks a bunch. Sorry to see all of what is going on with you and this thread. I don't know a lot about diesel engines but what you say makes sense. As far as the warranty, I don't want to keep going to DC for unlimited CP3's until the warranty runs out. My time is worth more to me than having to deal with CP3 replacement. I also have enough sense to know that nothing is for sure except death and taxes. I can't say if you have the best fix but if this will extend the life of my CP3, it will work for me.
I hope that when people read these threads they realize that most of the guys like yourself are just trying to save some of us a little trouble by sharing your experience and knowledge.
I hope that when people read these threads they realize that most of the guys like yourself are just trying to save some of us a little trouble by sharing your experience and knowledge.
01-06-2006, 02:53 PM
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SD,
One more question. In your piece that mentions the tapped banjo bolts you referenced Gabes for a source. Do you have info on how to get in touch with them? I have searched the web but cannot find anything. I know you tapped your own and if I cannot get them already tapped I will take you info on the diameter, buy a couple banjo bolts and take to a machine shop.
One more question. In your piece that mentions the tapped banjo bolts you referenced Gabes for a source. Do you have info on how to get in touch with them? I have searched the web but cannot find anything. I know you tapped your own and if I cannot get them already tapped I will take you info on the diameter, buy a couple banjo bolts and take to a machine shop.
01-06-2006, 03:04 PM
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http://www.genosgarage.com/CoastalDa...ID=593&CATID=1
More details in the original post here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=78702
More details in the original post here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=78702
01-06-2006, 03:31 PM
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Regulators:
http://www.swagelok.com/search/site_...T=0&PG=0&RPR=0
http://www.swagelok.com/shopping/pro...T=0&PG=0&RPR=0
You have to disconnect the line to set the pressure with these. But they are very compact, just a 1/4" nipple is all.
Could use a Holley type as well.
I have no affiliation with Swagelock. I just like their stuff. Ditto Bosch, Walbro, Geno, etc.
www.mcmaster-carr.com as well, but I couldn't find any that are adjustable.
http://www.swagelok.com/search/site_...T=0&PG=0&RPR=0
http://www.swagelok.com/shopping/pro...T=0&PG=0&RPR=0
You have to disconnect the line to set the pressure with these. But they are very compact, just a 1/4" nipple is all.
Could use a Holley type as well.
I have no affiliation with Swagelock. I just like their stuff. Ditto Bosch, Walbro, Geno, etc.
www.mcmaster-carr.com as well, but I couldn't find any that are adjustable.
01-06-2006, 05:02 PM
#67
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Good discussion........................................ .............
I have never owned nor used a "Walbro" Fuel Pump so I will not make any comments concerning their use or reliabilty. However, I am running a Holley Red Pump on my 2002 Dodge CTD 24 valve truck in conjunction with the stock Dodge (Carter) lift pump. I have had the Holley Red on my truck for almost two years now with no problems whatsoever!!! My fuel pressure stays at about 16-18 lbs at idle and never gets below 13 at WOT, plenty sufficient IMO to keep my VP-44 healthy!
Why have I chosen the Holley Red Pump over some of it's "competitors?"
#1.) Low Cost
#2.) Availability-You can buy them at ANY "Advance Auto Parts" Store in the U.S.
#3.) Warranty-Holley and "Advance Auto" warranty the pump for a full year.
I realize there are DTR members that have had problems with the Holleys, but I also know DTR members that have had failures with the FASS and others. IMO, at present there is no "bulletproof" fuel pumps for our trucks!
Before going to the Holley Red, I bought and installed the much "hyped" "Product Engineering" PE 4300 Fuel Pump. The "experts" at the time said this pump was "the last fuel pump you would ever need!" Some of it's "features" were: CNC machined 6061-T6 body, twin heavy duty sealed ball bearing internals, proprietary 7 vane impeller, internally bypassed. You could get it with pressures of 12-16psi or 22-26 psi. All this for about $300.00!
Well like an idiot, I bought into the hype and purchased one! It lasted for about three (3) months and left me on the side of the Interstate in 16 degree weather!!!
I tried another one and it did the SAME THING!! So,........IMO,.....more expensive pumps don't always mean they are better! And now, here I am with the "cheap" Holley "still going" after all this time! Heck,.......I can buy three (3) Holley Red's at what one of those PE Pumps would have cost me! And if my Holley quits or starts to lose pressure, I can pull into any of the 2,000+ "Advance Auto Stores" and get another Holley Red. I certainly couldn't do that with the PE and don't believe I could do that with a FASS or Walbro either.
The issue of the "mechanical" pumps was brought up, namely the RASP. One thing I find amusing, is here we are in 2006 with our Dodge CTD CR Trucks equipped with the CP-3 pumps and owners are STILL having failures all over the U.S. with components in that fuel system (CP-3's, lift pumps). So,......the aftermarket is scrambling to BRING BACK the concept of the mechanical fuel pump (like we had on the 94-98.5 P-Pumped trucks) to replace what we have now!!! Amazing isn't it???
FWIW,....... many of the members here know I still own my 1996 Dodge CTD which I bought new in 1995. I had the engine rebuilt in that truck @ 218,000 miles and that truck STILL had all the original parts in the fuel system including the old mechanical "lift" pump!!! As some of the other members already pointed out, those old mechanical pumps were VERY reliable,.....IMO much more so that the later VP-44's or even the CP-3!
Just my 2 cents worth...................
--------
John_P
I have never owned nor used a "Walbro" Fuel Pump so I will not make any comments concerning their use or reliabilty. However, I am running a Holley Red Pump on my 2002 Dodge CTD 24 valve truck in conjunction with the stock Dodge (Carter) lift pump. I have had the Holley Red on my truck for almost two years now with no problems whatsoever!!! My fuel pressure stays at about 16-18 lbs at idle and never gets below 13 at WOT, plenty sufficient IMO to keep my VP-44 healthy!
Why have I chosen the Holley Red Pump over some of it's "competitors?"#1.) Low Cost
#2.) Availability-You can buy them at ANY "Advance Auto Parts" Store in the U.S.
#3.) Warranty-Holley and "Advance Auto" warranty the pump for a full year.
I realize there are DTR members that have had problems with the Holleys, but I also know DTR members that have had failures with the FASS and others. IMO, at present there is no "bulletproof" fuel pumps for our trucks!
Before going to the Holley Red, I bought and installed the much "hyped" "Product Engineering" PE 4300 Fuel Pump. The "experts" at the time said this pump was "the last fuel pump you would ever need!" Some of it's "features" were: CNC machined 6061-T6 body, twin heavy duty sealed ball bearing internals, proprietary 7 vane impeller, internally bypassed. You could get it with pressures of 12-16psi or 22-26 psi. All this for about $300.00!
Well like an idiot, I bought into the hype and purchased one! It lasted for about three (3) months and left me on the side of the Interstate in 16 degree weather!!!
I tried another one and it did the SAME THING!! So,........IMO,.....more expensive pumps don't always mean they are better! And now, here I am with the "cheap" Holley "still going" after all this time! Heck,.......I can buy three (3) Holley Red's at what one of those PE Pumps would have cost me! And if my Holley quits or starts to lose pressure, I can pull into any of the 2,000+ "Advance Auto Stores" and get another Holley Red. I certainly couldn't do that with the PE and don't believe I could do that with a FASS or Walbro either. The issue of the "mechanical" pumps was brought up, namely the RASP. One thing I find amusing, is here we are in 2006 with our Dodge CTD CR Trucks equipped with the CP-3 pumps and owners are STILL having failures all over the U.S. with components in that fuel system (CP-3's, lift pumps). So,......the aftermarket is scrambling to BRING BACK the concept of the mechanical fuel pump (like we had on the 94-98.5 P-Pumped trucks) to replace what we have now!!! Amazing isn't it???
FWIW,....... many of the members here know I still own my 1996 Dodge CTD which I bought new in 1995. I had the engine rebuilt in that truck @ 218,000 miles and that truck STILL had all the original parts in the fuel system including the old mechanical "lift" pump!!! As some of the other members already pointed out, those old mechanical pumps were VERY reliable,.....IMO much more so that the later VP-44's or even the CP-3!
Just my 2 cents worth...................
--------
John_P
01-07-2006, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Superduty
CP3s need a bypass or regulator of some sort. The blue hose is a bypass.
I got a little confused when you started talking about regulators in your system when originally the only parts you said were need were the pump, tapped banjo bolts, hose barbs and 3/16 tubing.
01-07-2006, 12:43 AM
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"Seems like the rasp is really the way to go, cost aside.."
I know that the Dodge Cummins community has had lift pump problems for a long time. I can see that the entire community is very skeptical of an electric lift pump. But the CORRECT electric lift pump will perform wonderfully in this application.
Truthfully, guys, the lift pumps that have been used up until now have been the wrong ones. They have all been carburetor type lift pumps. You guys are trying to run about 15 PSI at the injection pumps and that is just outside of the range of the lift pumps you've been using. If you needed 5PSI the lift pumps would probably run forever. But as soon as you ask a low pressure air cooled light duty vane type pump to supply more than 10 PSI to the pump, you are asking asking too much. And they fail, as you've found out.
The fuel injection style pumps I have been speaking of (the Bosch and the Walbro) are totally different animals. They are built to supply fuel at high pressures. Up to 80 PSI. They are cooled by the fuel. They are a gerotor pump. They have a way heavier motor in them. The Walbro is built to pull up to 15-16 amps ! That is one stout fuel pump. (I don't have the specs on the Bosch.)
Once again I say look at the 99+ Ford Superduty trucks. They run the Bosch pump. It runs at 60 PSI all day long with no problems. The pressure regulator is up in the filter housing on top of the engine. Go do a search at Diesel Stop and you will find very few threads discussing bad fuel pumps. Contrast that to here where you see a lot of threads on bad fuel pumps. When you take the Bosch pump or the Walbro and run them at low Cummins type pressures of about 20 PSI, they are literally going to last forever because the load on them is so small compared to their design load.
There is a lot of confusion about blowing things up because the Bosch or Walbro will put out a lot of pressure if restricted. You must run a regulator or a bypass with these pumps. It is funny to me that this causes you guys so much concern. I guess these will be the first pumps you've ever had that really have some output behind them. For example, the stock 3rd gen Dodge pump feeding the CP3 doesn't appear to use a regulator. It doesn't need one either. It is incapable of creating enough pressure to damage anything ! That should tell you something right there. Unfortunately that also means it is a light duty pump and as soon as the pumping gets tough it is over worked. And thus it fails.
There is one more aspect to all this: Dodge people accept the fact that pressure at the injection pump should drop under WOT conditions. This does not have to be the case.
If the regulator is located at the lift pump there will be a pressure drop when the flow through the filter and lines increase. And even while there is a pressure drop at the injection pump, the relief back at the lift pump will still be operating, sending fuel back in the return line. Even though you might have a really beefy lift pump, your injection pump can be starving.
I think the Dodge community has incorrectly tried to compensate for this pressure drop by running a larger than normal lift pump. That is the only reason I can see for selecting pumps of more than 80 GPH.
It is of course hopeless selecting these large pumps, because no matter how much flow the lift pump provides the pressure before the filter and lines is still 15PSI at idle and as soon as the engine goes to WOT there will be a pressure drop due to higher flow through the filter and lines. And thus the pressure at the injection pump drops.
ON the other hand, if the regulator is located at the injection pump as part of the bypass, the pressure at the injection pump will stay constant as long as the lift pump can keep up. There will be no pressure drop at the injection pump at WOT.
(Actually there will be a slight pressure drop because the regulator isn't perfect. At higher flows it will hold 16 PSI and at WOT when the flow through it is less, it will drop to 15 PSI. The Swagelock regulator is really good in this regard, but others are less so.)
I hope this diagram clarify things a bit. I guesstimated the pressure drop across the filter and lines to be about 8 PSI. It might be more on some engines. It might be less. It will be more when your filter starts plugging up. BTW: I know that 15 + 8 = 23. I was tired when I put the image in here and it takes hours to get an image approved by the moderator, so I'll leave the error in it.
One more thing: with the regulator at the injection pump, the fuel pressure at the lift pump is 22 (23) PSI all the time, not just at WOT.
So... I am going to go out on a limb and say that all the Dodge Cummins lift pump problems could be solved by using a good fuel injection type lift pump (I recommend Walbro or Bosch) and mounting the regulator at the injection pump.
If you get nervous about whether this will actually work, I urge you to go back to the GSL392 delivery curve (or whatever lift pump you are using) and see how much volume it puts out at the 23 PSI lift pump pressure. (I just realized I made a math error in my diagram !) The Walbro will deliver about 75 GPH and if you compare that to the calculated flows for various HP, it looks like it would handle 500-600 HP without too much trouble.
If you ever do see the pressure drop at WOT, with the regulator at the injection pump, it is because the lift pump can't keep up with the flow and it is allowing the regulator to close. Then, and only then, do you need a different or a second lift pump.
I've continuously spoken of the Walbro 392 as the pump for this application. Truthfully, it is overkill and a smaller pump could be selected for most applications.
Also, and this will probably really get some peoples goat... I don't think there is any need for dual lift pumps, mechanical lift pumps, high flow lines, special banjo bolts or anything like that. One good electric lift pump and one regulator should do the trick.
If you are really paranoid about it failing, carry a spare and the tools to change it and mount it on the frame rail where it is easy to work on.
I am hoping that someone (other than myself) tests this and proves it right. It is already running perfectly on my truck.
There are a few details that I've only briefly mentioned thus far that need to be discussed at some point, that being we need to monitor the filter pressure so that we don't burst the filter or the filter housing lid. You guys can figure that out, right ?
The other thing is that people have been saying they get really dirty fuel in their tanks. If that is the case a pre filter might be in order to protect the lift pump, but generally I think they will be OK with what is in the Dodge tank for a screen. The Ford setup runs a sock screen on the tank pickup and the Bosch pump stands up well.
Now... isn't it ironic that Cummins uses a Bosch fuel system on the ISB and that Bosch builds a really good fuel injection style lift pump and yet Dodge/Cummins didn't use it ? And even more ironic that it ended up on a Ford ? Hmmm....
I know that the Dodge Cummins community has had lift pump problems for a long time. I can see that the entire community is very skeptical of an electric lift pump. But the CORRECT electric lift pump will perform wonderfully in this application.
Truthfully, guys, the lift pumps that have been used up until now have been the wrong ones. They have all been carburetor type lift pumps. You guys are trying to run about 15 PSI at the injection pumps and that is just outside of the range of the lift pumps you've been using. If you needed 5PSI the lift pumps would probably run forever. But as soon as you ask a low pressure air cooled light duty vane type pump to supply more than 10 PSI to the pump, you are asking asking too much. And they fail, as you've found out.
The fuel injection style pumps I have been speaking of (the Bosch and the Walbro) are totally different animals. They are built to supply fuel at high pressures. Up to 80 PSI. They are cooled by the fuel. They are a gerotor pump. They have a way heavier motor in them. The Walbro is built to pull up to 15-16 amps ! That is one stout fuel pump. (I don't have the specs on the Bosch.)
Once again I say look at the 99+ Ford Superduty trucks. They run the Bosch pump. It runs at 60 PSI all day long with no problems. The pressure regulator is up in the filter housing on top of the engine. Go do a search at Diesel Stop and you will find very few threads discussing bad fuel pumps. Contrast that to here where you see a lot of threads on bad fuel pumps. When you take the Bosch pump or the Walbro and run them at low Cummins type pressures of about 20 PSI, they are literally going to last forever because the load on them is so small compared to their design load.
There is a lot of confusion about blowing things up because the Bosch or Walbro will put out a lot of pressure if restricted. You must run a regulator or a bypass with these pumps. It is funny to me that this causes you guys so much concern. I guess these will be the first pumps you've ever had that really have some output behind them. For example, the stock 3rd gen Dodge pump feeding the CP3 doesn't appear to use a regulator. It doesn't need one either. It is incapable of creating enough pressure to damage anything ! That should tell you something right there. Unfortunately that also means it is a light duty pump and as soon as the pumping gets tough it is over worked. And thus it fails.
There is one more aspect to all this: Dodge people accept the fact that pressure at the injection pump should drop under WOT conditions. This does not have to be the case.
If the regulator is located at the lift pump there will be a pressure drop when the flow through the filter and lines increase. And even while there is a pressure drop at the injection pump, the relief back at the lift pump will still be operating, sending fuel back in the return line. Even though you might have a really beefy lift pump, your injection pump can be starving.
I think the Dodge community has incorrectly tried to compensate for this pressure drop by running a larger than normal lift pump. That is the only reason I can see for selecting pumps of more than 80 GPH.
It is of course hopeless selecting these large pumps, because no matter how much flow the lift pump provides the pressure before the filter and lines is still 15PSI at idle and as soon as the engine goes to WOT there will be a pressure drop due to higher flow through the filter and lines. And thus the pressure at the injection pump drops.
ON the other hand, if the regulator is located at the injection pump as part of the bypass, the pressure at the injection pump will stay constant as long as the lift pump can keep up. There will be no pressure drop at the injection pump at WOT.
(Actually there will be a slight pressure drop because the regulator isn't perfect. At higher flows it will hold 16 PSI and at WOT when the flow through it is less, it will drop to 15 PSI. The Swagelock regulator is really good in this regard, but others are less so.)
I hope this diagram clarify things a bit. I guesstimated the pressure drop across the filter and lines to be about 8 PSI. It might be more on some engines. It might be less. It will be more when your filter starts plugging up. BTW: I know that 15 + 8 = 23. I was tired when I put the image in here and it takes hours to get an image approved by the moderator, so I'll leave the error in it.
One more thing: with the regulator at the injection pump, the fuel pressure at the lift pump is 22 (23) PSI all the time, not just at WOT.
So... I am going to go out on a limb and say that all the Dodge Cummins lift pump problems could be solved by using a good fuel injection type lift pump (I recommend Walbro or Bosch) and mounting the regulator at the injection pump.
If you get nervous about whether this will actually work, I urge you to go back to the GSL392 delivery curve (or whatever lift pump you are using) and see how much volume it puts out at the 23 PSI lift pump pressure. (I just realized I made a math error in my diagram !) The Walbro will deliver about 75 GPH and if you compare that to the calculated flows for various HP, it looks like it would handle 500-600 HP without too much trouble.
If you ever do see the pressure drop at WOT, with the regulator at the injection pump, it is because the lift pump can't keep up with the flow and it is allowing the regulator to close. Then, and only then, do you need a different or a second lift pump.
I've continuously spoken of the Walbro 392 as the pump for this application. Truthfully, it is overkill and a smaller pump could be selected for most applications.
Also, and this will probably really get some peoples goat... I don't think there is any need for dual lift pumps, mechanical lift pumps, high flow lines, special banjo bolts or anything like that. One good electric lift pump and one regulator should do the trick.
If you are really paranoid about it failing, carry a spare and the tools to change it and mount it on the frame rail where it is easy to work on.
I am hoping that someone (other than myself) tests this and proves it right. It is already running perfectly on my truck.
There are a few details that I've only briefly mentioned thus far that need to be discussed at some point, that being we need to monitor the filter pressure so that we don't burst the filter or the filter housing lid. You guys can figure that out, right ?
The other thing is that people have been saying they get really dirty fuel in their tanks. If that is the case a pre filter might be in order to protect the lift pump, but generally I think they will be OK with what is in the Dodge tank for a screen. The Ford setup runs a sock screen on the tank pickup and the Bosch pump stands up well.
Now... isn't it ironic that Cummins uses a Bosch fuel system on the ISB and that Bosch builds a really good fuel injection style lift pump and yet Dodge/Cummins didn't use it ? And even more ironic that it ended up on a Ford ? Hmmm....
01-07-2006, 12:53 AM
#72
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"So those Swagelok regulators that you linked to are not necessary if you run the bypass hose between the intake and return on the CP3 like in your picture?"
That is correct. You could run a regulator on the CP3 system if you wanted to force feed it at some pressure. I just run the fuel past it and leave it take as much as it wants. There is a little bit of supply pressure at the CP3 inlet because we are pumping at about 80 GPH and the return line has some restriction, as does that purposely chosen skinny little bypass line.
"I got a little confused when you started talking about regulators in your system when originally the only parts you said were need were the pump, tapped banjo bolts, hose barbs and 3/16 tubing."
Yeah... the VP44 boys started PMing me and I started throwing that in the mix. I think they need a regulator in their bypass line because I don't think the VP44 has a feed pump like the CP3 does and nor can it take unlimited flow, like the P7100 could.
Clear as mud ?
That is correct. You could run a regulator on the CP3 system if you wanted to force feed it at some pressure. I just run the fuel past it and leave it take as much as it wants. There is a little bit of supply pressure at the CP3 inlet because we are pumping at about 80 GPH and the return line has some restriction, as does that purposely chosen skinny little bypass line.
"I got a little confused when you started talking about regulators in your system when originally the only parts you said were need were the pump, tapped banjo bolts, hose barbs and 3/16 tubing."
Yeah... the VP44 boys started PMing me and I started throwing that in the mix. I think they need a regulator in their bypass line because I don't think the VP44 has a feed pump like the CP3 does and nor can it take unlimited flow, like the P7100 could.
Clear as mud ?
01-07-2006, 12:56 AM
#73
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RASP users: I understand you must cut/trim your fan to install your RASP pump. Rather than doing that, you might look at obtaining a stock fan for a 2003+ 6.0L Ford. That engine uses the same Vistronic fan hub, but uses a smaller fan. I have no idea if it will fit properly, but it is a smaller diameter. I think 23.75" versus 26" for the Dodge fan. IIRC.
The Dodge fan is just a bit big in my conversion. I may be contacting some of you to get advice on how to trim it if the 6.0L fan is still too large. My fan sticks up above the top of the radiator more than I would like.
The Dodge fan is just a bit big in my conversion. I may be contacting some of you to get advice on how to trim it if the 6.0L fan is still too large. My fan sticks up above the top of the radiator more than I would like.
01-07-2006, 01:00 AM
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OD is not an issue with the RASP. It's the clearance between the rear of the fans blades and the harmonic balancer. You remove about 1/2" from the rear of the blades.