98Ram25004x4

Does anyone have any experiance with the Renault engine(MIDR 06.02.26 L) that came in the Mid-Liner's? We have an old(1995) garbage truck that we bought new but outgrew fast that has very low hours & miles on it. It does not have that high of value to sell so I was thinking about making a toyhauler tracter out of it. It has a 26,000 gvw & the Mack dealership told me basically the bridge law is the only limit for trailer size.

It is rated for 180 HP & 475 lb-ft out of 6.177L. It does pretty good with a full load(26K) but that is on flat ground. I'm worried if I am up around 30K combined weight plus in some hills it might dog it. The same engine with small changes(injection pump, govenor, nozzle tips, etc) makes 210 & 560 respectively. Do you think that will be enough to pull with confidence?

I am going to talk to the local Mack mecaniac to get his advice but thought I'd ck here 1st to see if anyone had some ideas. Also does anyone know where else I could look for Mack advice/info? I don't mind spending some $ to do it but if it is going to cost a fortune it would be cheaper to just buy a bigger truck. I know you guys will say put a CTD in it but that is a little more work than I was looking for .

AlpineRAM

Could you take a pic of the engine, pump side preferred? Maybe I can help you with some stuff, but I need to know if it's the engine I worked on or not.

AlpineRAM

98Ram25004x4

AlpineRAM, I will get some pics of the engine & put them in my gallery. It will be a couple days though to take them, get on the computer & get them approved.

It obviously is a French made engine, were/are that common in Europe? THX

AlpineRAM

They are quite common over here

98Ram25004x4

With some research tonight I did get more info. On a British truck sales site from 2000 it said that this engine was available in a 210hp & 479 lb-ft version with mechanical pump. MUCH more important is it also said that with a Mack based "ITC" electronic injection it put out 250 & 700!!!

I do not have electronic but if I do need the power it might be possible to find this system somewhere. I'll just have to try it with my intended application & see how it does I guess. Keep the info coming though!!!

AlpineRAM

IIRC the Mac electronics on the higher rated engines were for emission reasons only- there were industrial apps with higher power and mechanical pumps (eitehr Bosch or Ducellier or Lucas)
You will definitely need a pyro if you turn it up, but basically it should be possible to get the same power from the mechanical pump as from the electronic version. (It could smoke like a freight train on takeoff though....) - The highest rating for this block is 226 hp (ISO) the Mack version was a different animal. (Pistons, bore/stroke, head etc) - do you have a charge air cooler on yours? this was optional for the 159hp (ISO) version, and necessary for the higher output stuff.

HTH

AlpineRAM

98Ram25004x4

Yes it has an air to air intercooler. That is cool you have experiance with this engine. They should be cleared tomorrow (6/22) as I put a bunch of pics up of the truck & engine. If I turn it into my main hauler I will get a pyro & boost probably. Looking at what it would take to pull the current bed off & looks straight forward. Have been doing some cking around on getting insurance & the like on it. Also looking at reciever & goose/5'er setups for it. I want to tow with it at least once now just to see how it would do.

It might be fine the way it is but nothing wrong with a little "extra" on tap!

98Ram25004x4

AlpineRAM where did you go, need your(or someones) help more than ever now!!!

I spoke with the guy that is supposed to know at the PHX Mack dealership Fri. He said it is a HUGE $ losing endeaver to try to kick up the ponies on my engine. He said part availability & expense makes it hard to get what you need for this particular engine. He said they tried it before & at the 9K mark decided to cut thier losses.

I'm not a diesel mechaniac but I don't see what the big problem is. There does not seem to be any internal changes between my L & the 210hp M engine. Same size, compression, valve lift & duration, turbo, etc. It seems to be slight changes to external parts that will liven it up some. Anybody have any suggestions?

Another downer was I found a class V "Titan" hitch on ebay at a great price. I could not get a width measurement before it ended so I bought it anyway. I need a standard 34" hitch but this is off an older Suburben & is 2" too wide. Useless to me now but I will get this thing to tow before winter gets here! With a little luck & help from the board!

DmaxEter

What do you want to know about that engine?????
God knows I have worked on my fair share of them turds. Im not knocking your truckin any way, but with the parts availability and labor rates in shops, those poor little trucks just cost too much to repair to be worth anything. Depending on which brake system it has on it, that alone can make the truck worth nothing at all. I have seen two of those get scrapped out over the last year because they needed brakes. It would cost more to fix than the truck was worth!!!
But, if the engines are taken care of, they last forever it seems. It should have just a regular old P-pump on it. You ccan follow any of the step by step instruction on the net to add a little more fuel to it. Pretty simple actually.
A pyro is a must as stated before. Ask any questions you need and if I dont know, I can find out.

DmaxEter

Oh yea, not that you will ever need to know, but just in case, The rear cylinder on that engine is number 1. Not the front cylinder.

AlpineRAM

I'd go for an EGT- gauge and to make it a litlle more lively you can shim the governor springs- a little goes a long way on them pumps.
(Or you could ask your dealer for the part number of the gov. springs of the L and the M engine )

HTH

AlpineRAM