Inline exhaust brakes
Inline exhaust brakes
I'm thinking about getting an ex. brake and I like the idea of a 4" inline so it's not so vehicle specific and could be moved to another truck someday. I've done some searching and see BD and US Gear make inlines, US Gear being much cheaper. Is anyone using an inline ex. brake, which brand and any other input would be great! TIA! Craig
I use a 4" inline pacbrake... I chose the inline because with twins there just isn't any room in the engine bay!!
Brake has performed flawlessly for well over 30k now... Prior to that I had a turbo mounted pacbrake and never had an issue with it either...
I have my brake set at 60psi back pressure at 3000RPM... Plenty of stopping power (up to 165HP I believe)... Once you tow with one you will never want to be without!!
Brake has performed flawlessly for well over 30k now... Prior to that I had a turbo mounted pacbrake and never had an issue with it either...
I have my brake set at 60psi back pressure at 3000RPM... Plenty of stopping power (up to 165HP I believe)... Once you tow with one you will never want to be without!!
I have a BD inline brake. I went with inline so my options would be open when it came time to swap turbos. I love it. Haven't had any problems with it, and it works great. I wouldn't tow heavy again without it.
There are two types: one is in the exhaust elbow , the other is in a straight section of pipe which ties in below the elbow - if you look into the elbow-type, even at wide open, the valve plate still presents a direct blockage to exhaust flow, where the straight-piped valve just presents the thin edge of the valve plate to exhaust flow - IMO, that elbow is what's causing nearly all the VGT turbo failures in the 6.7L trucks - I suggest installing the straight-section exhaust brake in the downpipe below the oem elbow
I had a inline brake and had problums because of all the dirt and the mud I drove threw. It was a banks inline and parts were so expensive I went with a PacBrake turbo mount and am very happy with it.
Thanks guys! I could swear Pacbrake told me they don't have a 4" inline - I better talk to them again. Dodgezilla 04, do you know the pt # for your 04.5 6spd Pacbrake kit and did it come with everything... compressor, tank, 4" pipe stubs and clamps? I want to use air powered so I can get rid of the tiny compressor under my seat and use one bigger one to run ALL my air stuff. What psi do the BD and Pacbrake systems maintain in the tank? Is there any other mfgrs of air powered ex. brakes? Craig
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I took over a year to research different e-brakes.
Thanks guys! I could swear Pacbrake told me they don't have a 4" inline - I better talk to them again. Dodgezilla 04, do you know the pt # for your 04.5 6spd Pacbrake kit and did it come with everything... compressor, tank, 4" pipe stubs and clamps? I want to use air powered so I can get rid of the tiny compressor under my seat and use one bigger one to run ALL my air stuff. What psi do the BD and Pacbrake systems maintain in the tank? Is there any other mfgrs of air powered ex. brakes? Craig
The price for BD was somewhat higher, but I alway go by the saying that you pay for what you get and the best quality lasts longer and costs less in the long run. At the time I purchased the BD e-brake they had a sale price that was comparable with Pac-brake.
I had no problem installing the e-brake unit myself and the instruction documents and tech help is more then excellent. The unit works great, is efficient and has caused absolutely no problems. The 12V air pump is located up out of the way in the right wheel well above the wheel well slush guard.
I wanted an auxiliary air supply, so in the engine compartment on the fire wall I directly T-ed in a 1/4 inch ball valve inline with a 1/4 inch female air coupler into the line from the air pump. The pump produces somewhat over 100 psi. I did not want any type of small air tank as they are limited in capacity and the air pump has to supply most of the total air required anyway. I use the auxiliary air supply for airing up tires after I travel to the location where I have to apply a load onto the ball hitch in the bed. Air can also be used to top up air ride hitches.
I determined to eliminate an air tank through experience with shop air compressors. In the shop I find when using a die grinder that the tank pressure quickly drains down and the air pump CFM will not sustain the grinder. When blowing out our field tractor radiators that can take an hour of steady blowing, I found that even an 80 gal tank quickly loses its air pressure and the air pump must come on and stay on. If the air pump only has a 12 CFM capacity there is not enough air to continue the job until you stop and let the tank pressure build up again. This allows very little time to steadily use the compressor air supply. I purchased an 18.5 CFM 150 psi three cylinder air pump and used a 5 hp 230V motor mounted on a small 20 gallon air tank on four wheels. The unit is easy to move around or load on a pickup to take to my neighour's place. It has 50 feet of No. 10 wire that plugs into a 230V welder plug. My four foot air wand has the air orifices oversized and that compressor can do more work than a big tank with smaller CFM compressor pump. The pump works continually at 75 psi.
I use Amsoil 20W compressor oil in the three cylinder pump to keep wear and heat down within reason in the air cylinders that run for 60 to 90 minutes without stopping. The heat in the compressed air heats the synthetic air lines and causes them to bulge.
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