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How do your stacks mount to the bed/truck?

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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 11:18 PM
  #1  
dodgeguy71's Avatar
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From: Near Mt. Pleasant, Tennessee
How do your stacks mount to the bed/truck?

I'm just curious, for all you guys who have bought these stack kits from these places, you cut the hole in the bed and then you put on the stacks and mount them where? Is it a solid mount to the bed? As far as the upper portion that holds the stacks? Just curious, I guess I'll add more as comments come in.
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 11:22 PM
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53 willys's Avatar
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Staxx clamp is by FAR the best option out there for stack mounting!!! don't even mess with the other clamps..they all seem to break anyway..just get a staxx clamp the first time and be done with it.http://uintadieselperformance.com/Staxx_Clamp.html
my.02
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 12:39 AM
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I guess the reason I was wondering is because I bolted mine direct to my cab rack....on my flatbed and it made some aweful vibrations, made my head hurt. Especially when loaded up a hill, I could feel it(the vibrations) in the seat, back glass would vibrate like mad!! I have since(today) installed rubber bushings between the bracket and the bed and also on the other side of the bolt to try and isolate the exhaust from the body. I thought that's how true bought stacks would be since that is how the factory exhaust is.

I'm thinking that the exhaust pulses cause problems(vibrations) by being amplified by the bed and such. I'm no engineer or anything, but it makes sense to me especially if the factory exhaust is isolated so well. So I guess I wanted to see how the bought and paid for stack kits mounted to the bed.

Any comments or thoughts? By all means, please chime in with any thoughts, I'm still experimenting with mine.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 01:11 AM
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Are you running atleast 12" of flex pipe? I would think if you werent that could be the problem. I run flex and dont have any issues. My stacks are bolted to the bed with some homemade clamps. No rubber.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 10:16 AM
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gotta have the flex and rubber helps as well. the flex will also help with the breaking of the mounts due to vibrations and twist of the frame. also, the motor and transmission mounts allow for a little movement under torque that the flex pipe will absorb.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 12:29 PM
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I have about 19 inches of flexpipe. I initially had the main tube set right on the bed through the hole, then I cut it out so the tube was not touching the bed and floating and installed the rubber grommets. Raised the stacks off the cab about 4 inches and is a lot more reasonable in the cab and tons better with the windows down, ears are'nt ringin after 4 miles. Window still vibrates like crazy under heavy load, not sure if that was there before....never checked. I sure like the smoke when it rolls out, makes me laugh everytime!!
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 02:57 PM
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$175 for a 5" clamp???????? Seems extremely high to me, I'd much rather make a set if I didnt think anything else would do the trick.....
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 03:10 PM
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I don't have $175 in my whole stack setup. Right now I'm at around $108 for dual stacks, ok, $10 for black paint(high heat), so I'm at $118. Don't have pics up yet, have to get all old pics of truck off and upload some new ones. So far all positive comments on how they look on the flatbed, unique.
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 07:52 AM
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What I did when I made my buddies, Just took some exhuast clamps an some flat plate steel about 6 inches long weld the exhaust hanger on the bottom of it an just welded the flat plate to the bed. With the hanger welded to the flat plate looked like an L with the clamp being on the bottom of the L and the plate the top vertical. Heres the finished product.
Name:  Stacks.jpg
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 08:09 AM
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mine is kinda a rigged/cheap quick set up when i did mine. i cut the hole, and took two pieces of 4" angle iron, and cut them so that the pipe contour fit in the angle iron, welded the angle iron to the pipe, and bolted the angle iron to the bed, so the pipe is about 1-3 inches off the bed. there is some shakin/vibriation, but nothing major. its been holdin strong for almost 3 years now.
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Old Apr 11, 2008 | 09:56 PM
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I just went to the local Peterbilt and bought a pair of cab mounted clamps and used chrome bolts to bolt them to the front rail(obviously). Was just over $100 for two of the 5" version... they have that particular clamp in 5" to 8" sizes. Was around $35 for the chrome hardware, but I bought various extra pieces to avoid a second or thrid trip to menards.



staxxclamp is cool, but over-rated and WAY over-priced.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 02:40 AM
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yeah I know what you guys are saying...but when I built my single set-up I did it for really cheap too...then I used that as my excuse to "splurge" a little on the Staxx clamp. I am glad I did they are really solid set-up and I feel they are worth the price even more so when you get it in your hands and feel it and really see it.
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Old Apr 12, 2008 | 07:13 AM
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06 DIESEL's Avatar
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I used some scrap pipe to put a brace off the bottom of the crossover tube and them bolt it to the bed, you can not really see it in this pictures, but you get the idea.
Name:  Stacks009.jpg
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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 12:05 PM
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On my flatbed, i had the stacks welded into a piece of 4"x6" by 1/4" thick tubing, then i had the tubing welded to my bed with a coupla pieces of angle iron.
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Old Apr 15, 2008 | 03:40 AM
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From: Fremont, OH/Newport News, VA
When I did mine, I used 5" exhaust clamps, clamped them down tight to the stack, then stuck the extra thread of the clamp thru my toolbox and used a second nut to fasten the clamp to the toolbox. i used big fender washers on the inside and outside of the toolbox and haven't been able to hear any kind of rattle at all.
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