The parts store was out of my usual Rotella oil for my CTD, but they had Castrol Cection for diesel motors. I use Castrol in my other vehicals, but have always used Rotella in my diesels. It has 3000 miles on it and it still a golden color of new oil. This isn't normal, is it? Usually my rotella is BLACK not long after changing it. Does this mean that this is a better oil, cleaner, or ?????
What are your views?

It also doesn't seem to leak near as bad. I have 1 or 2 small drips now and then, but now it is less. also, havn't changed filter brands either, same WIX brand as usual.

 

Personally I don't use either one and don't recommend either one... I use Syn Scheaffer in my rig with great result from testing... It is the only one I recommend...

BTW >>> Any Syn is better than a conventional as long as it is rated for the application it is being used for.

Oilguy

 

I'm using the Castrol right now. I got a great deal on some cases of it several months ago. Castrol has always been a great oil, use it and dont worry about it.

 

If it meets Cummind Certification, on the label, you are good to go.
Some people may not ercommend Rotella, but Cummins certifies it as A-OK.
That is good enough for me and the majority of the people on this site.
Using synthetic does not take yoy any further down the road per change than Rotella.
Both do the job, one costs 3-4 times more.
Those are tha facts.

 

Extended drain intervals of a quality synthetic will take you a lot further down the road than a conventional oil by any name.

Check the facts again my friend.... Both lubricate... One does it better than the other and it is true that Synthetics cost more but not 3-4 times more... The average convental oil cost about $1.75- $1.90 and the average cost of a Quality Syn is about 2 times the cost.
It is true that Conventional oil will get you down the road and if you only keep the truck for 2 year and it gets you to work and back... >>> Then don't work about it... BUT... If you work your truck hard and use it as a tool for making an income and want to get the most out of it... then you may want to use the best because you know it will cost less in the future...
Like tires... They all get you down the road... Do you choose them carelessly? or >>>do you choose the best? They cost more... But save you money..

Oilguy

 

So how many miles are you getting between changes? I've heard and read that even if you use the Syn. oils you shouldn't go any further mile wise. I use the Rotella T but would go to a Syn if it wouldlet me get more miles between changes.

 

Cummins does not differrentiate between Syn & Rotella, Dello, or other quilfied oils. The schedule is the schedule.
If you want to run run further than what Cummins says and you believe that is the right thing, than I guess Cummins needs your help to see the light.
Tens of thousands of CTD's & big rigs run dependably on Rotella, Dello, other certified oils, with predictably good results.
I choose the Cummins book, as well as the considerable judgemnt of the majority who buy their oil & read this Forum, stick to the book.
Regardless of what the Syn makers say, it does not change the schedule.

 

I generally run about 10-15K and I run samples along the way. They usually tell me it is fine and keep running but I usually change it anyway at 15K miles.

Your right... They have a recommended service schedule and that is what I recommend to my customers if they ask me. You are right that if you run the "Cummins Schedule" then using off the shelf conventional oils will be fine.
I don't base my information solely on the word of the oil companies... I take samples for analysis... I am probably more aware of what goes on under my hood that most poeple on the road because being in the oil business... It would not look very good to have an oil related problem with my rig.
You can change your oil everytime you buy fuel as far as I am concerned... I was just responding to your post
and the fact did not add up... Whether you use Syn or conventional oil... It will cost you the same if you factor in the extended drain time of Syn and cost of your time spent changing it.

Oilguy

 

But like Oil Guy, they do analysis on the oil considering how much an oil change costs on those things. With analysis you *know*

But you're right- nothing wrong with the above oils.

 

What's your opinion of the hydrocracked conventional oils that are being labeled as synthetic? That's what the castrol is isn't it?

 

Getting back to the original question:

Diesel-rated oil is formulated to hold the soot in suspension, thus the black color after a few miles. Do you think your engine suddenly produces no soot now that you changed oil brands? Soot is the inevitable product of diesel fuel during the combustion process, it is so small that it bypasses the piston rings and enters the oil stream. Would you rather have the soot in suspension or falling out and gunking up your internal surfaces and orifices? If in suspension, it is dumped when you change the oil. The oil filter does not catch it. Why isn't the Castrol black?

I am interested in hearing bobistheoilguy comment on this, maybe he has done some testing.

Also, Bob, your comments on extended change intervals Vs. amount of soot a syn can hold in suspension. Thanks.

 

Shortly after 100K on my '98 12 valve I was talked into swtiching from Rotella, to Mobil Delvac. Around 120K my oil dinger began singing when I came to a stop, oil pressure momentarily going to nada. When I consulted with an old mechanic friend, his first question was more of a statement- "Did you change brands of oil?" "yes", "Did you swtich to Delvac?" "yes" - Drop the pan, clean the screen, swtich back to your old brand.

He had encountered this problem three times before, and all the swtiches were to Delvac.
I have NO problem with Delvac, which is what I continue to run in my eighteen wheeler after a $13,700 overhaul @ 932,800 mi.
This could have happened even if I hadn't swtiched, but I don't think I'll do any swtiching and take a chance; sure is an ugly feeling sitting at a traffic light with no oil pressure, and your dinger singing away.

 

My 1998 started dinging and oil pressure guage swinging to zero at a stop at less than 100K miles. The oil pressure sender was going bad, a common problem for 1997 and 1998. I replaced the sender and it quit. I did not switch oil. Delvac may not have been your problem. Did the dinging quit?

 

Hydrocracked basestocks or GrpIII are definately better than GrpI or II basestock in that they resist emulsification and stand up better to heat due to their higher purity. This also contributes to extended oil life and improved additive performance.
I know that Castrol has classified their Grp III oil as "Synthetic" by redefining the definition of "Synthetic". I disagree with it and think it is just a way to sell their oil at a price comparable to a Higher Grade PAO Synthetic without the comparable quality.
Just my opinion and they didn't call me... so you know what that is worth!

Oilguy

 

Yes; matter of fact this happened on a Saturday morning, and I needed the truck Sunday for a short trip. Mechanic/ friend told me to drain oil, fill base with diesel, crank truck- when it starts, immediatetly kill it. (He called that a backflush) refill with oil, and go about my business.
It was the following week before he could get to my truck, and during that week I lost oil pressure for a short interval when approching a stop sign. I got nervous, and just parked the truck at friends shop. He dropped the pan, & cleaned the screen. I picked it up couple of days later, and ran it till I traded @ 158k, no more problems.

Once again, this could have happened no matter what kind of oil was in the truck, but I'm not going to change brands just cause someone feels that I should be usuing the brand that they like.

Just my $.02, but as long as you're usuing a major brand that's within the specs, I don't think that there's that much difference.