cab lights
#1
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cab lights
can they be added to a truck that doesn't have them from the factory? if so, is this difficult to install? is there a wiring from the factory under the roof to connect to?
any info would be helpful. thanks in advance. cheers
any info would be helpful. thanks in advance. cheers
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cresson/Stephenville Texas
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Yes they can be added. Not sure on 06s if wiring is there, but its not too hard. Just get a template from the dealer or make your own off a truck with lights already.
#4
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I did it on my '06, buy the kit from the Dodge house or similar online Dodge Parts Dot Com and it comes with template and wiring. The hardest part of the install is getting past the sick feeling you get drilling holes into the roof of your new truck The wiring is fairly simple, you tie into the power in the a pillar on the passenger side if I recall correctly.
#5
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FYI
On a SRW it is not important but if your truck is or you are converting from SRW to DRW the spacing on the lights are important and they are required by DOT, the 3 center lights are for Identification while the 2 outside lights are Marker Lights.
If you have a DRW you also must have the same light pattern on the rear of your truck either Bumper, Bed or Tailgate.
Jim
On a SRW it is not important but if your truck is or you are converting from SRW to DRW the spacing on the lights are important and they are required by DOT, the 3 center lights are for Identification while the 2 outside lights are Marker Lights.
If you have a DRW you also must have the same light pattern on the rear of your truck either Bumper, Bed or Tailgate.
Jim
#6
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#7
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Yep, once you get past the measuring, drilling, and measuring some more it doesn't become an issue. The worries then keeping water out, with a curved roofline like we have it is hard any way it goes. I have the Recon LED lights, if you go with these, cut off the factory Recon connectors and hardwire them in.
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#9
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I installed a set on mine in in February 2007. I bought the Mopar kit that came with everything needed. Took me about three hours total. One of the biggest challenges is getting the headliner out without bending or creasing it. If you have any questions about the kit or installing it, just ask.
Here are some pictures :
The items pictured here (top to bottom) are the template/instructions. The small bag on the left just below the template hold the bulbs and the screw anchors. Next is the wiring harness. The bag on the right holds a few zip ties, replacement electrical connector,and bulb sockets. At the bottom are the lenses.
I didn't stand at the dead center of the truck for this shot, which is why the lights look offset.
Here are some pictures :
The items pictured here (top to bottom) are the template/instructions. The small bag on the left just below the template hold the bulbs and the screw anchors. Next is the wiring harness. The bag on the right holds a few zip ties, replacement electrical connector,and bulb sockets. At the bottom are the lenses.
I didn't stand at the dead center of the truck for this shot, which is why the lights look offset.
#10
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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#11
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If you do this yourself you have to remember a few things.
One, is that when you turn on your parking lights, TWO sets of lights come on. Your exterior parking lights, and your instrument panel lights. If you tap into the wrong wire for the cab lights, you will end up dimming them with the panel dimmer. You can check for this with a test light or a voltmeter.
Also, if you are worried about water, use RTV on both sides of the gasket. Mine have been in for over a year and a half with zero water intrusion.
One, is that when you turn on your parking lights, TWO sets of lights come on. Your exterior parking lights, and your instrument panel lights. If you tap into the wrong wire for the cab lights, you will end up dimming them with the panel dimmer. You can check for this with a test light or a voltmeter.
Also, if you are worried about water, use RTV on both sides of the gasket. Mine have been in for over a year and a half with zero water intrusion.
#12
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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I just got a set of the "Blazer" or whatever lights at the local Tractor Supply. They only require a hole to be drilled that is big enough to run a wire through, as well as the screw holes, instead of the huge hole for the OEM lights. They were fairly cheap and are cheap to replace. I busted one of the orange lenses while tightening them down and just ran down to TSC and grabbed another one for like $7 - they sell them individually. They've been on for a year, in the GA sun and rain and no fading or leaks at all. I used some silicone to fill the wire and screw holes before tightening it all down.
#13
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Thread Starter
thanks for all the replys. i called my local dealer and they actually had a kit in stk. everything i needed was in the box.
i think i must have measured 100X's before drilling any holes, lol. head liner wasn't too bad. came down a lot easier than expected. pretty good engineering.
i tapped into the white wire with a black strip on the passenger side A pillar. this wire was in a harness provided from the factory. lights look totally awesome. it looks like a rig now. powered by Cummins!
take care fella's and thanks again! be safe
i think i must have measured 100X's before drilling any holes, lol. head liner wasn't too bad. came down a lot easier than expected. pretty good engineering.
i tapped into the white wire with a black strip on the passenger side A pillar. this wire was in a harness provided from the factory. lights look totally awesome. it looks like a rig now. powered by Cummins!
take care fella's and thanks again! be safe
Last edited by stroker101; 09-12-2008 at 07:02 AM. Reason: spelling
#14
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i did mine myself, it was pretty easy, but i about crapped myself taking a drill motor to my baby...
can't recall what brand they are, but got them from someone here on the forum. good stuff, probably the same you'd get off of ebay
instead of the sheet metal screws mine came with i went to the hardware store and got some stainless machine screws and uses both locktite and silicone. looks great, won't ever leak or come out!
definitely a good mod!
can't recall what brand they are, but got them from someone here on the forum. good stuff, probably the same you'd get off of ebay
instead of the sheet metal screws mine came with i went to the hardware store and got some stainless machine screws and uses both locktite and silicone. looks great, won't ever leak or come out!
definitely a good mod!