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Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

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Old Feb 11, 2003 | 03:42 PM
  #16  
BigK's Avatar
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From: Graham, WA
Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

Tom, check GFCI outlet, cord, and lead to block heater for damage. I'm plugged into GFI here, and no problem. Nice to have the protection, as you well know. Curious that your's did not trip when you got bit. ??? <br>The GFCI is designed to protect all receptacles downstream from it. Should trip just as easily as a result of problem @ any downstream receptacle. <br>I have my house garage split into halves, with one home run serving each, GFI protection on both. Add up your amperage draws for things like freezers, rechargeables, vac system, lighting, etc, and add in the block heater. Can total quite a lot.
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Old Feb 11, 2003 | 08:06 PM
  #17  
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Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

[quote author=dieseldude4x4 link=board=8;threadid=10764;start=0#103131 date=1044928292]<br>Several stages of being bitten by 110:<br><br> ZAPPPP<br><br> immediate brain shuffle<br><br> : boy, that was stupid<br><br> 8) looks around to make sure no one was watching<br><br> ;D no one saw me................<br>[/quote]<br><br>Exactly! ;D Why do things always go bad when its 6[sup]o[/sup]F out? : <br><br>
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Old Feb 11, 2003 | 09:06 PM
  #18  
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Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

There is like an automatic two out of three trip logic machine out there in the vast expanses of the universe that generates random signals for different climatic conditions. Some MO-Ron in his/her finite wisdom has set up all the worst possible ocurrences to happen on the low end of the temperature scale (block heaters, dead batteries, etc). Since it is usually a two out of three matrix, you get the first signal for free usually with no discernable outcomes. However, when the second relay trips, that's when the outcome gets affected and usually goes to the negative side of the Calvinheit scale. The only known antidote is to remain inside anchored in your physical attribute proportioning device while consuming mass quantities of alcohol containing liquids. <br>That is the only thing I can figure.
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Old Feb 11, 2003 | 11:17 PM
  #19  
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Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

GFI Outlets can become weak and start to trip at a lower amp draw. I would try replacing the GFI outlet with a new one. <br><br>
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Old Feb 12, 2003 | 06:13 AM
  #20  
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Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

[quote author=dieseldude4x4 link=board=8;threadid=10764;start=15#103562 date=1045019176]
There is like an automatic two out of three trip logic machine out there in the vast expanses of the universe that generates random signals for different climatic conditions. Some MO-Ron in his/her finite wisdom has set up all the worst possible ocurrences to happen on the low end of the temperature scale (block heaters, dead batteries, etc). Since it is usually a two out of three matrix, you get the first signal for free usually with no discernable outcomes. However, when the second relay trips, that's when the outcome gets affected and usually goes to the negative side of the Calvinheit scale. The only known antidote is to remain inside anchored in your physical attribute proportioning device while consuming mass quantities of alcohol containing liquids.
That is the only thing I can figure.
[/quote]

Uhhhhhhhh.............thanks.......

[quote author=T.Clark link=board=8;threadid=10764;start=15#103624 date=1045027046]
GFI Outlets can become weak and start to trip at a lower amp draw. I would try replacing the GFI outlet with a new one.
[/quote]

T., it's tripping all 3 GFI's in my garage, so at this point I must assume it's in the cord.
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Old Feb 12, 2003 | 02:25 PM
  #21  
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Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

I agree as long as all three outlets are actually GFI outlets. Here in our area as long as the circuit is wired properly there only needs to be one GFI outlet in the circuit and the rest of the outlets can be standard outlets. <br><br>I had a refrigerator that was in the garage that worked fine for years. It was plugged into a standard outlet. Then one day it stopped working. I found that the GFI outlet that was on the other wall was tripped. I reset it and it was fine until the compressor on the fridge kicked in then it tripped the GFI outlet. My first thought was a bad fridge. But after testing amp draw on the fridge and plugging other things into the outlet I replaced the GFI. Been over two years and haven’t tripped again. Just had to make sure that the GFI I replaced was the same amp as the old one. <br>
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Old Feb 12, 2003 | 09:48 PM
  #22  
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Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

As a practicing electrician, we generally don't put heavy appliances on GFI circuits, especially fridges and freezers. If the receptacle is inaccessable to routine use, that is, concealed behind the appliance, it does not need a GFI. The next receptacle downstream from the fridge should have the GFI receptacle. However, if the receptacle which has the fridge is in the middle of the circuit, you're stuck with nuisance trips. I believe that Commatoze probably has 3 separate circuits, each protected by a single GFI. Of course, circumstances dictate variances in placement of the GFI receptacle, however, paramount is that the GFI must be readily accessible, not concealed behind an appliance, for obvious reasons.
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Old Feb 13, 2003 | 12:30 AM
  #23  
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Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

Uhhhhh, you're welcome..... :
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Old Feb 13, 2003 | 08:57 AM
  #24  
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From: Central New Mexico
Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

Commatoze,<br><br>Look closely at your 'engine end' of the cord. It looks like there is a tab (maybe one on each side0 that appears to come from the formed plug (that plugs into the heater) going up the outside of the formed plug. If this is correct, it would make contact with the nut that screws onto the heater. Again, if this is correct, you would have both 120v wires (hot and neutral) to the two heater prongs and also the ground to the outside of the heater.<br><br>At least that's how it looks from what I see. I could be wrong since I've not taken one of these apart.<br><br><br>DW<br>
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Old Feb 13, 2003 | 09:39 AM
  #25  
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From: Sturbridge, Taxachusetts
Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

Thanks, I'll take a look, Deac. Another way I guess it to probe the truck frame and the ground prong with an ohm meter. I haven't done that yet. It's just sooo darn cold and windy here, it's hard to do anything outside for long with gloves off. -4F this morning. 40[sup]o[/sup] is going to feel like Spring.
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 07:20 PM
  #26  
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Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

Since we're suffering in the high 40's, a little rain coming, springlike conditions, dontcha know, I decided to go out and measure the resistance reading between the u-ground plug and a bonding strap on the truck, reading is 0 ohms. <br><br>~Dave
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 08:48 PM
  #27  
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From: Bristol Michigan
Re:Block Heaters & GFI Outlets

[quote author=NWDave link=board=8;threadid=10764;start=15#104019 date=1045108096]<br>As a practicing electrician, we generally don't put heavy appliances on GFI circuits, especially fridges and freezers. If the receptacle is inaccessable to routine use, that is, concealed behind the appliance, it does not need a GFI. The next receptacle downstream from the fridge should have the GFI receptacle. However, if the receptacle which has the fridge is in the middle of the circuit, you're stuck with nuisance trips. I believe that Commatoze probably has 3 separate circuits, each protected by a single GFI. Of course, circumstances dictate variances in placement of the GFI receptacle, however, paramount is that the GFI must be readily accessible, not concealed behind an appliance, for obvious reasons. <br>[/quote]<br>Wait til ya lose a couple hundred in beef cause the GFCI tripped
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