84 suburban
84 suburban
i just got a 3/4, 4x4, chevy suburban with the ol' 6.2 NA diesel (don't laugh, it was free) and i have a couple questions.
1) it came with a bunch of striaght 30w oil. is that the right oil for this truck? is there a reason i should use the same 0delo 400 15w-40 i use in my dodge?
2) the air intake hose from the air-cleaner to the grill is missing. is this a big deal?
3) the heat is stuck on. any suggestions?
4) anyone every turbo-charge one of these? would that be detrimental to the tranny? i've already got the dodge for all the heavy hauling and towing but i think it'd be a much funner truck with another 50-60 HP.
5) any tips or suggestions?
thanks
jeremiah
1) it came with a bunch of striaght 30w oil. is that the right oil for this truck? is there a reason i should use the same 0delo 400 15w-40 i use in my dodge?
2) the air intake hose from the air-cleaner to the grill is missing. is this a big deal?
3) the heat is stuck on. any suggestions?
4) anyone every turbo-charge one of these? would that be detrimental to the tranny? i've already got the dodge for all the heavy hauling and towing but i think it'd be a much funner truck with another 50-60 HP.
5) any tips or suggestions?
thanks
jeremiah
I had an 82 GMC with a NA 6.2L diesel for 12 years. That was a great truck.
When I went to trade it in, she had 405,000 miles on the engine.
The drive line outlasted the truck. (It had 250,000 on her when I bought it).
I ran strait 30w in that truck the entire time I had her. I dont know if that is OK or not, but it never did me wrong.
I believe the recommended motor oil is on a sticker on the back side of the drivers side sun visor.
I dont know what good/bad would come of changing oil to something different. I'll leave that to others to comment on.
The snorkel from the grille to the air cleaner was long gone before I bought the truck. So, I used a house hold heater hose to connect the grille air intake to the air cleaner. This really didnt make any difference one way or the other.
You got me on the heater? Could be several things from broken linkage controlling air box doors to a bad or weak vacuum pump (Mounted in the distributor hole at the back of the block).
As far as putting a turbo on these engines, I have known two people that have done that and both met poor results.
The NA 6.2L can take a turbo, but it seems to greatly reduce its life span.
Free is pretty good price for a Suburban.
What kind of shape is it in?
If the engine and drive-line is in good condition, as long as you take care of her, she'll take care of you.
Rich
When I went to trade it in, she had 405,000 miles on the engine.
The drive line outlasted the truck. (It had 250,000 on her when I bought it).
I ran strait 30w in that truck the entire time I had her. I dont know if that is OK or not, but it never did me wrong.
I believe the recommended motor oil is on a sticker on the back side of the drivers side sun visor.
I dont know what good/bad would come of changing oil to something different. I'll leave that to others to comment on.
The snorkel from the grille to the air cleaner was long gone before I bought the truck. So, I used a house hold heater hose to connect the grille air intake to the air cleaner. This really didnt make any difference one way or the other.
You got me on the heater? Could be several things from broken linkage controlling air box doors to a bad or weak vacuum pump (Mounted in the distributor hole at the back of the block).
As far as putting a turbo on these engines, I have known two people that have done that and both met poor results.
The NA 6.2L can take a turbo, but it seems to greatly reduce its life span.
Free is pretty good price for a Suburban.
What kind of shape is it in?
If the engine and drive-line is in good condition, as long as you take care of her, she'll take care of you.
Rich
that's kinda what i figured on the turbo. . .oh well.
she's in OK shape: she's a bit rusty on the bottom, heater is stuck on, power steering unit is going out, cloth seats are very dirty (by my low standards), there's a clunk somewhere in the driveline (probably just a u-joint), driver's side rear window doesn't roll down. . .
but, she's got a brand new 3 speed auto tranny that works flawlessly, about 30,000 miles on a rebuilt engine, most stuff still works: power windows, power door locks, 4x4 transfer case is solid, starts easy, runs good, gets respect out on the highway.
i've only driven her twice, but i already love her. she just feels right.
jeremiah
she's in OK shape: she's a bit rusty on the bottom, heater is stuck on, power steering unit is going out, cloth seats are very dirty (by my low standards), there's a clunk somewhere in the driveline (probably just a u-joint), driver's side rear window doesn't roll down. . .
but, she's got a brand new 3 speed auto tranny that works flawlessly, about 30,000 miles on a rebuilt engine, most stuff still works: power windows, power door locks, 4x4 transfer case is solid, starts easy, runs good, gets respect out on the highway.
i've only driven her twice, but i already love her. she just feels right.
jeremiah
Thats a great deal!
Check for proper vacuum and make sure all the vacuum hoses are connected to the HVAC box correctly.
Sounds like a weekend or two worth of your time and you'll have a great truck!
Check the vin and see if its a C or J class engine.
The J class had stronger valves and no EGR. (Usually a better set up than the C class engines).
The 6.2L diesels were never power houses, but did hold their own ok.
Take care of her, and you should have a good truck.
Rich
Check for proper vacuum and make sure all the vacuum hoses are connected to the HVAC box correctly.
Sounds like a weekend or two worth of your time and you'll have a great truck!
Check the vin and see if its a C or J class engine.
The J class had stronger valves and no EGR. (Usually a better set up than the C class engines).
The 6.2L diesels were never power houses, but did hold their own ok.
Take care of her, and you should have a good truck.
Rich
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