Deezel Nate

Anyone know if there is a web board deicated to the 6.2L diesels?

I bought an 86 Blazer yesterday with the 6.2L The motor is locked up (guy ran it out of oil) but I also got another 84 pickup with a good running 6.2 with the deal.

Just wanted info on things I should replace while I have the engine out.

I got a great deal, figured I might run it for a while or turn around and sell it for a profit after I get it cleaned up a bit and running.

CoastalDav

Don't know if you know the differance in 6.2's. The trucks over, I think 8500lbs GVW have a none EGR intake. The others have the EGR Valves atop the intake. Its a big restriction for air flow. I don't have my book in front of me so I can't tell you exactly what the engine codes are.

If the one that is running has a lot miles on it, check the fuel pressure from the mechanical pump and make sure its up there. I had to go to a electric fuel pump on my 85 Suburban at 165,000 miles. Could not get any pressure out of the stock pump.

The other thing is to remove the fuel return line off the injection pump. Then remove the fitting the hose was connected to. Hold it up to a bright light. If you see black specs in it, the pump is starting to come apart. NAPA has a rebuilt one for a good price.

Check the Glow plug controler wiring and sensors to the system. GM used at least two differant systems on the 6.2. In any case if yours has the controller sensor in the water jacket on the passenger side of the engine, towards the rear, check it for ohms and make sure it's ok. If this sensor was exposed to air in the cooling sytem, its toast. The Glow Plug system is the worse thing about the 6.2. That sensor determines if the Glow Plugs need to come on after the truck sits for awhile. Since this engine has pre combustion chambers, it's really hard to fire with the glow plugs at times. Even after sitting 2 hours you'd think it would go, but sometimes it don't.

Other the vacumm pump being good or bad, there's not much more other than
normal wear and tear to check on. The 85 burban I mentioned above is still running and driven every day with some mods to the glow plug system.

I suggest you get a book for the engine.

Dave

Lil Dog

The Dieselplace is a free board that is GM only and has alot of good info on it.

As far as the engine, typically if the oil was run out, you are going to have some cracked pistons and failed cam bearings. I have torn apart a few no-oil 6.2s and its not hard to do.. Just get the entire unit pressure tested prior to assembly. We put tested heads on the refreshed block only to have it smoke water and knock on startup. I took us a few tries of head gaskets to figure out that the liners had cracks ... That didn't show up on the shop hone we did..

Replacement parts are pretty easy to do really.. Just make sure you do some measuring on the cam lobes and refresh the pump..

Hope that helps..

5.9Excursion

non EGR engines are the "J" engines (8th letter in the vin number, otherwise it is a "C" engine) My relative is freshening one up right now. I just ordered new injectors, injection pump, lift pump, etc from

http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/gm_62.%20htm.htm

And www.thedieselplace.com is probably the best forum on the old 6.2 and 6.5's.

Deezel Nate

The engine in the Blazer is super clean. No hacked wiring, brackets, etc. Just the owner didn't know a spark plug from a lug nut and never checked the oil.
The rear end is also bad in in, but I have parts. I can put 3.73 gears in the 12 bolt, or I also have a 3.08 geared 10 bolt front and rear I could run. I'm not sure what the gear ratio the Blazer has right now.

Either way I just need to figure out if I want 3.08 or 3.73 gears. I'm not sure if the 6.2 has enough guts to run the 3.08s with a 32-33" tire??


The truck the good motor is coming from is a K20, I'm not sure on the VIN # but I will check when I have a chance.

I'm just going to take the good motor and between the 2 engines, swap the better parts to make 1 running engine. The Blazer's block can serve as a coffee table or something


Oh, the truck has the metal fuel filter like the 12v Cummins use, and the Blazer has the square clip on setup. Is one of those better than the other?


If the glowplugs give me trouble, I will just wire in a manual switch. That is how all the older tractors, skid steers, etc we had on the farm were and it's way easier than messing with an expensive and problematic stock setup IMO.

OneBigDoofus

I know a little and I've managed to help a few on some other sites,...Already got some pics.
One things for sure, you need to change the rubber line from between the filter and the back of the pump, it's a problem just waiting to occur.
There's a screen in the back of the pump that will catch the larger stuff if the inside of the fuel line starts to come apart. The line is after the filter so it just chokes the fuel off and starts grinding away at other sensitive parts inside the pump.

Pump Pic's

Did it lock down on the guy while he was driving it or did he just go out and try to start it one day and it was "locked" and wouldn't start? This is important.....

catmandoo

the dieselpage is also into the 6.2,6.5 and duramax.as for the fuel filter the 82-83 used the screw on type the 84 up had the clip on. i prefer the one mounted on the firewall.lots easier to change,and bleed.

Wobblin-Goblin

I have an '85 6.2L K20 with 150,000 miles and occasionally it nickels and dimes me to death but it's been relatively trouble-free for the last year.

(knock on wood)

wurkenman

When I had my 6.5's I spent time here. Good group of guys.
http://gm-diesel.com/

Deezel Nate

I think it siezed while driving. I'm not sure. My friend got it from a guy in exchange for some transmission work I think. It's been sitting around his yard all summer and he decided he didn't have time to mess with it so I bought it off him for cheap. He pretty much has a junkyard so I am able to come up with all the parts I need.

I haven't picked it up yet, but when I get working on it, I'll try to turn the motor over with a rachet. I hope it's not locked up tight cause it will be more of a pain to pull the engine with the torque converter still bolted on the flexplate.

Mattster

dieselplace.com is where I went when I had a 6.2L diesel. Lots of info on there and good people who know these engines well. I suggest investing in main stud girdle to prevent the bottom end from grenading. Mine did that because I didn't put on on. Its not a guarantee that it will stop that problem but should help. My crank blew into pieces back in July hence the reason to invest in buying a Cummins. But that K5 I had went everywhere with that diesel torque was in the right place for wheeling.

Deezel Nate

The girdle is probably good and all, but not something I can afford. Shoot it's about half the cost of the whole Blazer

catmandoo

depends what your gonna do with it.my 92 6.5 just turned 500,000 miles.second pump and due for another rebuild.it's in a half ton and runs pretty much empty all the time except for an occasional machine i need to haul which is about 400 lbs.and pull my lawn mower trailer which weighs probably 2500 loaded(jd 430's are heavy beasts).if you don't work em too hard they will last quite awhile.i bought mine for the milage and my last tank still yielded just about 26 mpg.and that was half and half 55mph/65mph

Mattster

girdle is only about $175.

OneBigDoofus

Well without actually knowing the final moments of the engine's life this may or may not help. When you get it thing home and try to turn it, if it's still stuck, unbolt the starter and then see if she free's up. Try to listen and pay attention for the starter gear releasing back away from the flywheel.
99 present of the folks that read this will dismiss this but a starter gear can jam any motor.

Hay watcha got to loose,....starter has to come out anyway.

Any of you feller's still running these motors without changing the rubber fuel line as I mention above and you'll have sore knees from the hot rad and blood shot eye's from looking at the pump upside down while cleaning out that screen beside the road. LOL