I was thinking about this the other day. Taking a part a first gen with a 12v and replacing it with a 24v and all the computer stuff and all the wiring and transmission. For some reason my friends don't think this will work, the engine is the same size and if you fabricate I don't see why it wouldn't work. Just want to know what some of you guys here think of that.

 

Generally - it's the other way around.

The 24V is simply not as reliable overall as either the 12V or a newer Common-rail engine. Search on VP-44 and Lift-pumps and you'll begin to understand.

It may be worthwhile to invest in a P-7100 pump for a 12Valve engine, more options that way, almost indestructable pump.

 

Sure, you could. You could literally put any engine into any vehicle that will support the engine's weight/size requirements. It's all about cost vs. benefit. In this case you're looking at large cost for negative benefit.

Now that we've got this question answered, please allow me to hijack this thread, LOL!

Will the 24v head bolt onto the 12v block? I've always thought that this would be a great swap, since you'd have the only benefit of the 24v along with the reliability and simpleness of the 12v and p-pump.

 

To bolt a 24v head on a 12v block, new pistons, fuellines, etc. are needed...Its a ton easier to put a p pump on a 24v.

As for putting a 24v engine in a 1st gen....why???

 

Ehhmmm, where do you get this idea ? How do you think you can move 24 valves with 12 pushrods ? And if you find a way to "stuff" them in there how do you move them ?

Now that we answered this question, let's move back to OP and not hijack anything, unless it's really worth it.... LOL

 

Uh, I'll take the rocker bridge for 500 Alex?

The 24 V only still has 12 pushrods........ But the Pistons are also different, so it's not a simple swap.

 

Yep, Patdaly just said it. The 24v only has 12 push rods. Don't you know your own truck? :P

Anyway, I guess the pistons are the only thing that would prevent one from doing so?

 

priceless..............

 

Whoops, you are right, I looked up manual and it's true.

I was just going to see if YOU guys knew about it....

 

LOL, it's all good dude!

 

doesnt make sense to me at all!

 

Like it was said earlier for a 24 V head swap:

Pistons would have to change for valve clearance.

Custom injector lines need to be made. This is because in the 24V head the injector resides in the dead center of the cylinder.

Injectors need to be either modified or changed for different pop pressures.

 

If you're doing a 24v head conversion on a 12v VE engine, couldn't the stock 24v injection lines be used?

 

No, I don't think so. The 12V injection pump, the P7100, has the injector lines in a straight line on top of the pump.

The 24V injection pump, the VP44, is a rotary style pump. Meaning that the injector lines are arranged in a circle on the rear of the pump.

The lines would not match up to any of the fittings.

 

he is talking about a first gen 12v with the VE which is a rotary pump. the stock 24v lines could work with a little modification, but i doubt they would fit on directly.

as for a 24v head on a 12v...WHY???? the 24v have crappy valve seats and guides, and the valves are smaller=weaker. By the time you get the oil ports matched up, a headgasket made to work, and new pistons with the proper bowl location, you could have just spent half the money on a decent port and polish job, that would easily outflow a stock 24v head.

Lastly, to the OP, if you wanted to do a VP44 24v into a first gen, I actually don't think its a bad idea if you had a 24v sitting around to swap in fairly cheap. My reasoning is this, if you wanted to have a 1st gen, with a mild motor combo, and easy adjustability, its a good swap. You can get up to and over 600hp out of a 24v with twins (big singles are too laggy to be able to turn the power down and drive at 400hp everyday) with good street manners, and like I said, you can turn it back down to 400hp if you wanted to tow something. There are plenty of good reliable options out there for lift pumps, and with good fuel flow to the VP44, it too can be reliable.

With a good lift pump pushing 10-16psi thru 1/2" lines, a set of 150-200hp injectors, a smarty (how could would that be in a 1st gen), and some street twins, you could have up to 550hp without a wire tap, and that really makes the VP44 a reliable pump as it will eliminate both of the major causes of dead VP44's.