12v to 24v conversion
10-30-2007, 03:29 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lander Wyoming
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
12v to 24v conversion
I was thinking about this the other day. Taking a part a first gen with a 12v and replacing it with a 24v and all the computer stuff and all the wiring and transmission. For some reason my friends don't think this will work, the engine is the same size and if you fabricate I don't see why it wouldn't work. Just want to know what some of you guys here think of that.
10-30-2007, 04:25 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Northern Iowa
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Generally - it's the other way around.
The 24V is simply not as reliable overall as either the 12V or a newer Common-rail engine. Search on VP-44 and Lift-pumps and you'll begin to understand.
It may be worthwhile to invest in a P-7100 pump for a 12Valve engine, more options that way, almost indestructable pump.
The 24V is simply not as reliable overall as either the 12V or a newer Common-rail engine. Search on VP-44 and Lift-pumps and you'll begin to understand.
It may be worthwhile to invest in a P-7100 pump for a 12Valve engine, more options that way, almost indestructable pump.
10-30-2007, 04:36 PM
#3
Registered User
Sure, you could. You could literally put any engine into any vehicle that will support the engine's weight/size requirements. It's all about cost vs. benefit. In this case you're looking at large cost for negative benefit.
Now that we've got this question answered, please allow me to hijack this thread, LOL!
Will the 24v head bolt onto the 12v block? I've always thought that this would be a great swap, since you'd have the only benefit of the 24v along with the reliability and simpleness of the 12v and p-pump.
Now that we've got this question answered, please allow me to hijack this thread, LOL!
Will the 24v head bolt onto the 12v block? I've always thought that this would be a great swap, since you'd have the only benefit of the 24v along with the reliability and simpleness of the 12v and p-pump.
10-30-2007, 05:54 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cresson/Stephenville Texas
Posts: 2,436
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To bolt a 24v head on a 12v block, new pistons, fuellines, etc. are needed...Its a ton easier to put a p pump on a 24v.
As for putting a 24v engine in a 1st gen....why???
As for putting a 24v engine in a 1st gen....why???
10-30-2007, 06:00 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Now that we answered this question, let's move back to OP and not hijack anything, unless it's really worth it.... LOL
10-31-2007, 10:37 AM
#7
Registered User
Yep, Patdaly just said it. The 24v only has 12 push rods. Don't you know your own truck? :P
Anyway, I guess the pistons are the only thing that would prevent one from doing so?
Anyway, I guess the pistons are the only thing that would prevent one from doing so?
Trending Topics
10-31-2007, 12:50 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Western Pa
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ehhmmm, where do you get this idea ? How do you think you can move 24 valves with 12 pushrods ? And if you find a way to "stuff" them in there how do you move them ?
Now that we answered this question, let's move back to OP and not hijack anything, unless it's really worth it.... LOL
Now that we answered this question, let's move back to OP and not hijack anything, unless it's really worth it.... LOL
10-31-2007, 10:28 PM
#12
Administrator
Pistons would have to change for valve clearance.
Custom injector lines need to be made. This is because in the 24V head the injector resides in the dead center of the cylinder.
Injectors need to be either modified or changed for different pop pressures.
11-01-2007, 06:26 AM
#14
Administrator
The 24V injection pump, the VP44, is a rotary style pump. Meaning that the injector lines are arranged in a circle on the rear of the pump.
The lines would not match up to any of the fittings.
11-01-2007, 08:47 AM
#15
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 2,997
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, I don't think so. The 12V injection pump, the P7100, has the injector lines in a straight line on top of the pump.
The 24V injection pump, the VP44, is a rotary style pump. Meaning that the injector lines are arranged in a circle on the rear of the pump.
The lines would not match up to any of the fittings.
The 24V injection pump, the VP44, is a rotary style pump. Meaning that the injector lines are arranged in a circle on the rear of the pump.
The lines would not match up to any of the fittings.
as for a 24v head on a 12v...WHY???? the 24v have crappy valve seats and guides, and the valves are smaller=weaker. By the time you get the oil ports matched up, a headgasket made to work, and new pistons with the proper bowl location, you could have just spent half the money on a decent port and polish job, that would easily outflow a stock 24v head.
Lastly, to the OP, if you wanted to do a VP44 24v into a first gen, I actually don't think its a bad idea if you had a 24v sitting around to swap in fairly cheap. My reasoning is this, if you wanted to have a 1st gen, with a mild motor combo, and easy adjustability, its a good swap. You can get up to and over 600hp out of a 24v with twins (big singles are too laggy to be able to turn the power down and drive at 400hp everyday) with good street manners, and like I said, you can turn it back down to 400hp if you wanted to tow something. There are plenty of good reliable options out there for lift pumps, and with good fuel flow to the VP44, it too can be reliable.
With a good lift pump pushing 10-16psi thru 1/2" lines, a set of 150-200hp injectors, a smarty (how could would that be in a 1st gen), and some street twins, you could have up to 550hp without a wire tap, and that really makes the VP44 a reliable pump as it will eliminate both of the major causes of dead VP44's.