12V or 24V?
No, not really an issue at all with the 12v, the mechanical lift pumps are VERY hardy. There are a few that run FP gauges in 12v, mostly to monitor filter condition.
And we weren't trying to hijack your thread
And we weren't trying to hijack your thread
I can't recall ever hearing of anyone running dual fuel filers on a CTD, not saying one one has, just that I don't remember hearing about it. And I read a lot about these trucks. They are VERY tough engines, I wouldn't think it would be justified, unless you had a hard time getting clean fuel.
I've got two fuel filters PLUS a water seperator on my truck, but only because it is part of the FASS lift pump. Otherwise, I'd just leave the stocker alone.
I can't believe I forgot about the FASS
That is a good setup, but most people don't buy it for the filtritation, as much as the pump. The filtritation is a nice bonus though
I think you will be VERY pleased with a nice 12v. They aren't quite as "refined" as the 24v trucks, but they are stone reliable and every inexpensive to get power out of.
if you get a 96-98 5sp, you can extract a lot of power out of it without really spending any money.
the 98 12v's will usually fetch a premium price over the 97's if the person knows what they've got their hands on, but the 4drs are nice. I prefer the earlier dash layout and AC controls. I think the best truck for the dollar is a 97. You get the hydraboost brakes with the older dash and usually lower price than an equivalent 98.
if you plan a budget of $600 for aftermarket mods, you'll be very pleased and surprised at what you end up with...
bump the timing to ~16-16.5* - free
4" exhaust system - $250
boost/pyro gauges - $200
3000RPM GSK - $100
ground fuel plate and pump tweaks - free
that 215 pump will put out enough fuel to slip the stock clutch without much trouble, so that'll be your limiting factor on power, but it'll definately hold more than the automatic will!
I'm thinking you can do about 350rwhp on the stock clutch
if you don't mind a little noise and have a buddy w/ a welder or a friendly exhaust shop, just ditch the cat and muffler and have them run a stick of 3" pipe from the downpipe to the tailpipe for about $50
if you get a 96-98 5sp, you can extract a lot of power out of it without really spending any money.
the 98 12v's will usually fetch a premium price over the 97's if the person knows what they've got their hands on, but the 4drs are nice. I prefer the earlier dash layout and AC controls. I think the best truck for the dollar is a 97. You get the hydraboost brakes with the older dash and usually lower price than an equivalent 98.
if you plan a budget of $600 for aftermarket mods, you'll be very pleased and surprised at what you end up with...
bump the timing to ~16-16.5* - free
4" exhaust system - $250
boost/pyro gauges - $200
3000RPM GSK - $100
ground fuel plate and pump tweaks - free
that 215 pump will put out enough fuel to slip the stock clutch without much trouble, so that'll be your limiting factor on power, but it'll definately hold more than the automatic will!
I'm thinking you can do about 350rwhp on the stock clutch
if you don't mind a little noise and have a buddy w/ a welder or a friendly exhaust shop, just ditch the cat and muffler and have them run a stick of 3" pipe from the downpipe to the tailpipe for about $50
I to steped away from a toyota tundra so i could have more power for towing. You will be happy with a diesel. A few facts though it will not rides as good and fit and finish is not as good. But i am very happy with the truck and you can toy anything you want. If you would go with a 3rd gen. i would not be scared of a auto. And the four doors are great. I love the older trucks but i not sure you will be happy with one steping away from toyota. My truck before the toyota was a 1950 ford f1. So i kind of like the ruff and tuff ride of the older trucks but my wife likes the new one alot better. Just my 2cents!




