BrandonNucas10

whats really the diff. between then just for pulling or how does that work ?

lgp9999

You might want to be a little more specific with your question. Obviously the difference is the number of valves.

BigErksG2

depends on the gen. too a 1st gen 12v has a different pump than a 2nd gen 12v p7100 (my favorite) and the 24v 2nd gen has a vp44 (my least favorite). If youre looking for a truck i would go with a 2nd gen 12v for 2 main reasons. the upgrades are cheap, and it is very reliable. the only problem is if you get a truck with alot of miles you will have alot of wear on steering, head gasket, and other components but is you have time to look i would keep an eye out to find one in good condition with low miles (under 130k) I did and i dont regret it one bit.

Bosshawg600

Realy a 12v is going for a lot more money than some 24v's. If you want to or like to tinker and want some big HP go with a 12v. If you like the new interior and like to be able to change the power on the fly a 24v is more of what youll want. And remember each truck will have its "flaws". Or you could get lucky and go the route I did and buy a 24v with a wiched P-Pump conversion!

BrandonNucas10

BigErksG2...

ok was are the years the 2nd gen 12v are they any thingss that i should watch out for ? does it have a 53 block? if so is that something that i should look out for or what
thank you

BigErksG2

94-98 but watch out for some 98 b/c halfway through the year (98.5) they switched to 24 valves so some 98's are 12 some are 24. If you get a choice get a 5 speed because all you have to do is weld the 5th gear nut and upgrade the clutch. with the autos you have to upgrade the converter, valve body to start making any power. i believe the 53 block is only in the 24 valves but im not 100% sure on that. look for any head gasket leaks and look at the timing case on the front of the engine to see if the dowel pin (research the killer dowel pin) fell out and did any damage. other than that maybe look at the steering linkage, the rest of the truck should be pretty solid.

BrandonNucas10

thanks for the info .... this is gonna be my first CTD .. what is the reason for welding the 5th gear nut.. what is a good aftermarket cultch for the price.. how soon should i get a FPG thanks for your help -brandon

BigErksG2

i dont mean to steer you completely away from an auto because they can hold some decent power with a converter and a valve body which is what mine has and it hold up really well. if you go with an auto get a tripple disc billet converter and you will never have to worry about it again. most people weld the 5th gear nut on because they have a tendency to come loose and fall off inside the tranny so ive heard. its a precautionaly thing like the KDP. Southbend makes some really nice clutches for about 900 bucks for your application. Before modding anything i would invest in a EGT, boost and tranny temp if you get an auto or fuel pressure if you get the manual (to fill a 3 gauge pillar pod, not that the manuals have fuel pressure issues its always good to monitor fuel pressure even though i dont yet) where about do you live? Im willing to give you a hand with anything if youre close. If you take one for a test drive and it feels like a turd dont be suprised, these things from the factory are governed out the yin yang. you can plug the wastegate and grind your own fuel plate (neither of these will hurt your engine as long as boost is kept below 35 psi which is when the stock charger loses its efficiency) and get about an additional 100 hp and 200 tq real quick. as i said, modding these engines is cheap (sometimes free) and easy. remember, 100k miles is NOTHING on these trucks, especially if it is unmodified. Good luck.

BigErksG2

oh, and bosshawg... nice find on the p-pumped 24 valve. killer combo!

BrandonNucas10

no worries i would rather have a standard anyways..by saying that test driving it and feel like a turd you mean just cuz i would be expecting more power and accleration or what.. and i heard alot about the "wastegate" I live in New Braunfels Texas u. thanks brandon

BigErksG2

thats a little ways away from me here in Maryland, sorry. Yea you might think a stocker is a turd because you will expect more power out of this truck. My first test drive i was quite concerned with how slow it was but i bought it anyway and its a whole new truck with a simple fuel plate. the wastegate simply opens a port to divert the exhaust from going through the turbine wheel (thats how it limits your boost) around 18 psi stock. if you block the wastegate from opening (as simple as pinjching off a rubber tube) and add some fuel (fuel restrictor plate mod) then you can watch the boost climb to 35 quick, fast, and in a hurry. i couldnt get a smile off my face for the first month of driving once i did my mods because it was a completely different truck and blowing black smoke on people that cant drive was equally satisfying. After that the mods will keep coming and coming, its addicting, you might even end up on the intervention show because you will neglect everything just to mod your truck or work to make money to mod your truck. haha Good luck man.

BrandonNucas10

ok well that sounds badass.. lol so what are the price ranges that i should be looking for i dont wass spent to much .. but i dont wanna get some thing that is all beat up and used hard ..

BigErksG2

it really depends on the year and the mileage. i was lucky and got a 97 4x4with 57k miles on it in january for 15k completely stock. My friend just got a 95 5 speed 2wd with i think 180k miles for 4500 which i think is a steal. so it depends on what you want. obviously the 2wd are cheaper than 4wd but i would look to spend 10-14 grand for a decent truck with fairly low miles. i would use kbb.com to find the market value for any truck i was looking to buy just to have something valid to compare it to.

BrandonNucas10

ok check it out i just came back from looking at some trucks i found a 1998 or 1999 2500 CTD 5 speed the body is pretty straight on a scale of one to ten i give the body an 8 .. inside i give it about an 8.5 ac window locks everything works . the truck needs a resignation gear or something like that it scratches when you try to put it into 3rd i check out the tranny place between 500-660 dollars . the truck almost has about 200k but the pirice is 6k i know the guy i might be able to get it for 5,500 what do you think thanks -brandon

BigErksG2

Is it a 24 valve or a 12? if the year is 98.0 its a 12 but if its a 98.5 or 99 its a 24. If its a 24 valve you might want to see if the vp44 pump has been upgraded. the stock ones have a brass sleeve in them with a steel piston and they expand at different rates and it goes downhill from there. some pumps are fine for 300k some only til 10k and its really russian roulette. the first thing i would get is a fuel pressure gauge because that is what usually makes the vp44 die. If the fuel pressure gets low it starves the pump from fuel which not only is fuel for your engine but it cools the pump, and then the vp44 dies soon after from the strain and heat. so some preventative measures can be taken to keep your pump alive and you can replace a lift pump for alot less than a vp44. if its a 12 valve you should have no worries about the injection pump. if it runs fine now i wouldnt worry about it, you are getting truck for 5500 bucks. another thing you have to look for is steering wear. look at the linkage and see if its worn or if it has been replaced (ask your friend). was the truck modded at all? if it is look for a leak around the head gasket. thats the main things to check for, good luck.