Has anyone had problems running the VP44 pump with B20? I’d like to start running some B20, but I’m a bit leery. I read that the VP44 does not circulate fuel when the truck is sitting idle and that can cause pump failure. Would it be wise to run a lube additive to the fuel? If so what should I run? I owned a 2000 Ram2500 (had 150k) and never even though about it (I didn’t know about pump problems). Now I’ve just picked up a 98.5 24v with 92k original, and I figure it’s time to think about it. I’d like to run at least B20 and just didn’t know if it’s good on the pump. I read that B20 has higher lubrication properties, but that’s it also will clean the fuel system at first. Sounds contradictory, to be lubing yet cleaning at the same time, unless that’s just the cleaning off #2 deposits and not washing away the lubrication.


Going B100 would be nice, but I’m not ready for modifications (can’t afford it right now), and this is my daily drive. With the B20 will I need to change my fuel filter after the first tank or two fill up? I guess I should have one in the truck to be on the safe side. I’d hate to choke the filter and burn up the pump.


Thanks for any help; hope to have tags on the truck this coming weekend.

 

Dingoe,

I run B20 in my truck(2002) on a regular basis and have had no problems what so ever. I've also run B50 with no problem(filled the tank up half #2 and half B100).
You are correct in that biodiesel has better lubrication properties and it will clean out deposits from your fuel system. I started using B20 when my truck had only about 30k miles so I didn't have any fuel problems or plug up my fuel filter. Since your truck has 92k it would be a good idea to have a spare filter with you just in case. Fill up with some B20 and about 200 miles later unscrew the top and check on the filter or like many hear advocate, install a fuel pressure gauge. I have a low pressure light that I installed myself that comes on if the pressure gets below 4 psi.

KC Super 80

P.S. Welcome to the board and don't forget to put your truck details in your signature.

 

Thanks for the feedback, that's good info to know. I'll start with the B20 and check the filter as you said.

Gauges are the first on my to-do-list. I'm use to having them in the 2000 and the 98 is stock, except for the trans cooler.

 

No need for additional fuel lubricity with BD.
B2 increases the lubricity of #2 diesel by 60%, B20 would be ten times that.

 

Sounds good. I’m going Friday evening to a station that has a contract with BioWilly and get some of that B20.


Infidel, are you in the mountains our out in the flatter lands? If in the mountains, how does the biodiesel work for you? I’m in the hills, but we’re close the 6-9k foot range mountains and I head up that way some throughout the year. In winter months I’m up in the 4-4.5k elevation high deserts for off-road riding and I’ll stick to #2 due to lower temps when out there.

 

Well, from over the pond some experiences with B0 to B100- I'm running a lot of bio over here and can state some observations. First, the Bio will clean your system and might well show some trouble spots that right now are plugged with dirt. On my truck the quick-connects on the fuel tank were at least dubious. I replaced everything from the tank forward up to the fuel filter with 10mm rubber hose (multifuel, bio-certified) (8mm for the return line) and put a holley blue in the framerail and ditched the stock LP.
(That's something you should consider due to the age of the truck regardless whether you go bio or not)
Our Bio will work fine up to B80 at temperatures in the range to -15C (5F) but is quite sensitive to a plugged fuel filter then. (Generally when starting to go bio I suggest having at least one spare fuel filter ready)
The VP44 will love you for doing bio as long as you've got enough LP pressure. The lubricity under high pressure of RME is awesome, especially compared to the crappy diesel in the US. Bio also makes an excellent cetane booster.
The bad reputation of bio comes from some careless manufacturers IMO- crappy, dirty bio will ruin your IP as quick as dirty crappy diesel.

HTH

AlpineRAM

PS- more than 200 000 kms mostly on bio....first VP44.... 1 LP (replaced with holley blue)

 

Quote:

Infidel, are you in the mountains our out in the flatter lands?

I'm in western MT, 5000 ft valley but to drive more than 60 miles would have to go over a choice of several 6-7,000 ft passes. It gets cold here.
I have been running B20 year round for five years. Add a double dose of Power Service in the winter only, haven't had a problem down to minus 30. PS introduced a new antigel additive especally for bio recently called Arctic Express that will protect B20 down to minus 40. It's not meant to be used with anything stronger than 20% though. I wouldn't want to go stronger than B20 in the winter anyway.
More info on Arctic Express http://www.powerservice.com/arcticexp_bd_antigel.asp

 

Thanks for the input guys. If start to run it I’ll be in the B20 range. I contacted the distiller for the BioWilly Co. out this way and he sells it as B100 (b99.9) in 55 gal or 5 gal that meet the standards. I thought it would be as simple as pulling up to the pump, but the actual station with pumps over an hour away at a truck stop. My options are to get it via distribution or drive the distance. I assume the price is quite high doto transport north to my area, and right now it’s looking very costly to run it at $3.85 a gal. I don’t know about Europe anymore, but $3.85 is high here. I got #2 yesterday for $2.99 and that’s a deal in these parts.

I’ll keep an eye on the price and give the 20% mix a go when I can. I’m not ready to deal with replacing lines and a pump (I hope), at this stage. But it’s good to hear what it takes to make it right, incase mine takes a digger.

Ed

 

I run B100 and WVO in mine and no problems.