I just read a thread about how these guys are heating, mixing in lye and methanol and then filtering etc.

Where did I go wrong? I've not been aware of anything ither than just general mixing and filtering. Where does the heat process come into play?

 

This lye and methonal process is for brewing biodiesel... From the other thread it looks like you are brewing WVO... Never heard of it brewed the way you do, but I'm a novice

 

Like bnold said, you're just mixing and not processing the wvo to biodiesel. The reason of making biodiesel from svo/wvo is to get the vescosity of oil to regular diesel. WVO is not the same as biodiesel.

Eugene

 

WOW! had me worried for a minute, there. Actually, the viscosity of my mix is ~almost~ that of regular diesel. I think I'm thinning it good enough and have yet to haveany issues. Oh yeah, it costs me about $1.40 per gallon - so far. The more I make, the less it gets, will probably level off about $1.00 a gallon.

 

Might try adding 2 cycle oil instead of MMO and Powerservice. It is a lot cheaper and lubricates better. Now if you are using those as thinners, then disregard my post.

 

I replied to you in the other post, but one thing to add here. When you run wvo,even though it is filtered, all the glycerins (fats) are still there. You definitely need to start and stop your engine on pure diesel at the mixtures you are using. You could probably use an outboard motor tank and place a valve in the cab to control flow.

 

are you processing the left over glycerin?
you can recover a lot of methanol to reuse in your next batch of bio.

also before you wash your bio-diesel, process the methanol out of it as well. you will recover over 90% of your methanol, by processing the methanol out.
the lye is a consumable. the glycerin may be used as a fire starter/mixed with wood dust/chips. compost it use it as driveway sealer to keep the dust down.
or contact a grease recycling company, $1.00/gallon to get rid of it....
no need to add 2-cycle, mmo, trans fluid as bio-diesel is a very good lubricant, and cleaner. if you have a veg oil spill, clean it up with bio-diesel, use it as a hand cleaner, works better than goof off....
cc

 

Get an education on making biodiesel CORRECTLY before you mess up your engine.

Google has all the FREE info you need.

 

He's not making biodiesel. He's just mixing wvo, regular diesel, mm,ps together. Like searcher said, you might have problems when the temperature gets cold. WVO doesn't like the cold.

Eugene

 

Hm, Id have reservations about using WVO on anything but a converted vehicle. Theres a lot of gotchas if you dont do it right.
Brewing biodiesel is a PITA.. I like my conversion so much better. Downside is its not good for short trips and cold weather. Biodiesel can be made to handle those with a little bit of extra effort.

 

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate any input.

As for the additives I use, I can always add more, like 2 cycle oil. I've cut back the use for now 'cause the temps are hovering around 35, but will still plan on a 20% mix. As for the glycerine and fats and such, Sorry, too uneducated for right now (and too much money spent, according to wife), but I willl research and try to modify. I finally understand some of the concept of distillation with heat, but need to fill my head with more.

 

It's not a distallation process. It's a conversion process called transesterification. It removes the fatty acids, glycerines, and glycerides.

The process also lowers the viscosity of the WVO and removes a large amount of debris (stuff that blenders need to filter out) from the oil.

I just use window screen to prefilter my oil (as I pour the oil into my processor), then a final filter after my bio is done as it is getting pumped into my tank (about 20 microns). Thats it, done, no other filtering. Using same fuel filter since this spring. Running 50% bio right now and it is currently 30 degrees outside.

I also keep a sample of my latest batch of bio outside so I can see what it is doing in the cold. 100% soy (not hydrogenated-need to stay away from hydrogenated oils when cold) and it is crystal clear at 30 degrees. So I think the b-50 should be good to around 20 something degrees. Need to start checking in the freezer. KD

 

with SVO you need a heated secondary fuel system. with biodiesel you need to cook it with nasty chemicals.
for about 30gal of oil, I use 6.6gal methanol with 780g lye (you need to titrate the oil to get this amount correct for your oil. If you dont you wind up with soap that makes washing impossible, or under reacted oil.). shake the methanol in another container and add the lye to it. mix if for about 15min. heat the oil to 130f and add the methanol. mix the lot for a few hours and let it settle overnight. drain off the black goop. the stuff you want is the lighter liquid on top.
look up appleseed reactor for the plans to build the setup.