at least you dont have ot buy tube for the drive shaft.
you can just shorten the one you got.

 

Ok here are the Pics.

This is the mount for the tranny. The old one had 2 wings on either side the the other guy cut off instead of unbolting the tranny. So I ground off the little bit left, welded on a 1/2" bolt and a 2" piece of pipe we had lying around.



Here it is bolted into the STOCK chevy 700R4 Crossmember.



Here is my custom dash setup. The old way was like a shield going to the gauges. So since 2" gauges fit almost perfectly with a little bit of plastic trimming, here is the oil, water temp, and voltmeter in the stock locations but with some classy looks. The Stewart Warner pyro is where there was a blank space. That space was for the optional Quartz analog clock. So since the Speedo and fuel gauges just didnt look quite right, I got them too. The speedo is going in soon, the new fuel gauge is going into a 3 pod setup that the oil, water, voltmeter came in. The other spots are going to be for Boost and tranny temp. The old fuel gauge is going to have a tach put into it. The dash is just setting there for now.

 

Engine bay pics. I am ditching the AC system. I also notice I need a hood scoop









Now here is something I ran into. The MC was in the way of the up pipe from the IC to the mouth of the intake. So I went to my old machine shop, and in trade for some labor, he mad this up for me. He called me and said he made a mistake, he didn't notice the tapped hole. I told him that was quite alright, perfect place for a water injection spot But when I originally had it made, I thought the block itself was tall enough. NOPE! Well, it just so happened that the up pipe from IC the the intake is just right to go from the turbo to the intake Well, water injection is coming. Or maybe Nox???

 

Here is what is going to cool the water temps. The one is going to be on a thermostat switch while the other is going to be on a flip switch in the cab. The one on the right is from a 90 Dodge Spirit and the one on the left is from a 97 Saturn SC1. The Saturns needs a bit of trimming but the Spirits covers half of the rad and will clip on nicely.



And the rearend.



I didn't take pics from underneath as it really isn't finished. I will be putting new drums, shoes, cylinders, lines for the rear. I upgraded the 3/4ton 2-1/2" shoes to the 1tons 3" setup.

HTH,

Jon

 

Jon, did you find the 3/4 ton front stuff yet?

I still have a cheap place to get the whole setup if you need them.

 

Looks like you are getting close. I noticed that you went ahead and opened up the core support to make more room. That is a good idea. Mine is a total pain to work on the front of the engine. I have to use a 24" pry bar from the bottom to loosen the tensioner since a wrench hits the fan.

It does look like the engine is sitting pretty high. You may have to fabricate your own cowl. I did this before from two hoods on an S-10. I can give you a link to pics, as it took me two trys(yes three hoods) to get it right. It is not as straight forward as you might think.

Have fun.

Chris

 

Pat, I have the stuff, just have to go get them. I do not know what I am going to do with it. I have look at doing airbags in the front....

Chris, I would appreciate the link. The engine sits high because it only has about 1" of clearance between the pan and engine cross member. Being it is 2wd, the cross member is also a integral part of the front frame.

I am thinking of making it a manual shift auto with a ratcheting shifter....Any ideas guys??

Jon

 

The only online pics I could find(thought I had more) are here in this journal:

http://www.hotrodders.com/projects/008/01.html

The first thing you have to do is bolt or weld bracing to keep the hood at its original width and shape at the back. I would support it at the mount and at the point you plan to make the cowl. This has to be very strong so there is no pulling when you cut and mod the hood. The next thing is to cut the hood at the desired width from the back to the front. You can then weld some bracing to hold it to the cowl height you want. Next you have to make the fillers to make the cowl upright section. These will need to be butt welded in place so you dont have a ton of filling to do. It will take some time to get them just right, but take that time. The last thing is that you will need to extend the rear of the cowl because when you pull up the center it will pull the back section forward. I used the back of another hood for this so you get a very factory look and you can extend the center hood rib so it looks right. This will again need to be butt welded perfectly flat so that you dont have a mess. You will need to spot weld bouncing all around so you dont warp the sheet metal.

I would say you could just buy a cowl hood easier, but you have the same problem I did in that you would have to heavily modify the aftermarket cowl hood to clear everything since they dont really give you that much more room unless you get a big fiberglass hood which will not be great with the diesel vibration and will cost you a mint for a good one. Using the above plan you can do it for nothing but some time and the price of one more junk yard hood. All you really need from the junk hood is a good rear section and some sheetmetal for the fillers. I was on a budget for that project, so a $450 hood did not fit.

 

[QUOTE=turbos10;2103425]The only online pics I could find(thought I had more) are here in this journal:

http://www.hotrodders.com/projects/008/01.html

Wow, you are amazing and so are your trucks!

 

[QUOTE=sixb;2137199]....heh...well, I dont know about amazing, but I like my junk.

 

Ok, I got the driveshaft ($50 to have it shortened and perfectly balanced. No weights! ) on and filled it with fluid only to find the tranny doesn't pump at all Need a new tranny so I was thinking of either forking $1300 over for a new tranny or $1100 for a '72 Honda CL 175??? Any suggestions?

Jon

 

thats too much for a 72 cl175, i think

 

Ok, so I ruined the tranny Now I am going to take it out, put some goodies into it, get a better TC, when I get the money. A local builder that does A+++ work said they would do the build up for $400-$600 if I get the parts. So lets see, about $400-$500 for goodies, $600 for them to build it, $650 for a Gorend Bro's TC. Yep, about 2 more months before I have the money for all of it.... But in the mean time, I completely gutted the firewall of all unnessecary wiring crap. Meaning, everything but the speaker wires I am going to make my own fuse block and wire everything up to that and relays. I have 3 useless vehicles that I can get relays and fuses from.

Also, since I wont be using the AC anymore, I am going to wire the rear AC High/Off/Low switch for something. Any ideas?

Jon

 

If you can use the AC switch for some aux lighting up front, it would kinda give you high and low beams. Just my 2 cents.

 

Ok, so I got everything to wire up the Burb. Now I am thinking about 3 steps ahead here. I know what wheels and tires I am getting, I am going to have the tranny get a standard rebuild, and I am trying to decide a good paint scheme.

I am wanting to keep the chrome window shades (like bug deflectors??), ditching the roof rack and the trim. I am putting a chrome billet grille in and polishing the door handles and mirrors to a shiny finish. Now my question would be, what paint job?

I am thinking from the trim down a burnt orange color and from that point up, dark blue. Kinda like the Bears?

It is a faded dark blue right now. No badging planned right now.

The wheels are Eagle Alloys 102's. I am going to get 265/70/R16's on them too!



Any feed back?