Ford Excursion cummins swap (HPCR & 48RE)
#76
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I got the transmission cooling lines in and hooked up, I had to re-bend and use compression fittings on both lines. Need to come up with a permanent solution that doesn't have fittings in it that can leak. Hydraulic hose maybe???
Both intercooler tubes are in, got the Whistler intake installed with the sensor mounted on it. The throttle cable is hooked up. I still have to slightly modify the bracket that holds the gear shift cable where it attaches to the tranny.
The exhaust is all bolted in place and ready to go, the radiator hoses are in and the engine is full of fluid.
List of to do items...
Drop tranny pan (the deep one) and grind some off of the inside edge of the sealing surface where the dipstick enters the pan area. It seems like the dipstick is hitting the top lip of the pan and not wanting to go down any further? Anyone else have a problem like this?
Also fill the transmission with fluid, install front driveshaft, fabricate a dual battery tray for the drivers side, modify the A/C lines to adapt to the dodge compressor, finish the wiring, and install all my Diprocol gauges. And the list goes on...
Both intercooler tubes are in, got the Whistler intake installed with the sensor mounted on it. The throttle cable is hooked up. I still have to slightly modify the bracket that holds the gear shift cable where it attaches to the tranny.
The exhaust is all bolted in place and ready to go, the radiator hoses are in and the engine is full of fluid.
List of to do items...
Drop tranny pan (the deep one) and grind some off of the inside edge of the sealing surface where the dipstick enters the pan area. It seems like the dipstick is hitting the top lip of the pan and not wanting to go down any further? Anyone else have a problem like this?
Also fill the transmission with fluid, install front driveshaft, fabricate a dual battery tray for the drivers side, modify the A/C lines to adapt to the dodge compressor, finish the wiring, and install all my Diprocol gauges. And the list goes on...
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Deaa (09-20-2022)
#77
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Almost finished!
Shift cable bracket got modified and mounted. Went ahead and used stainless steel braided hose and AN fittings from JEGS for the tranny cooling lines (turned out very nice). Had to modifiy the header panel slighly to fit around the dodge trans cooler. The front end is all back together now.
Still need to make a dual battery tray (for now I'm going to try one battery so I can drive it). Still don't have any gauges put in yet. Also have yet to pick up my new AC hose assembly and install it.
However, I got all the other wiring finished last night with the exception of the fan wiring.
I could of finished it and started it this morning but we got 1/4" of ice early this morning...
Here's some more pics...
Shift cable bracket got modified and mounted. Went ahead and used stainless steel braided hose and AN fittings from JEGS for the tranny cooling lines (turned out very nice). Had to modifiy the header panel slighly to fit around the dodge trans cooler. The front end is all back together now.
Still need to make a dual battery tray (for now I'm going to try one battery so I can drive it). Still don't have any gauges put in yet. Also have yet to pick up my new AC hose assembly and install it.
However, I got all the other wiring finished last night with the exception of the fan wiring.
I could of finished it and started it this morning but we got 1/4" of ice early this morning...
Here's some more pics...
#78
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Join Date: Dec 2005
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Lookin good! You have way more patience than I do when it comes to working in the cold, I avoid it at all costs if possible really because I cant stand banging my knuckles in the cold weather
Is there room for the 2nd battery in the engine bay, or do you need to mount it elsewhere?
Is there room for the 2nd battery in the engine bay, or do you need to mount it elsewhere?
#80
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Yes there is enough room for two batteries on the drivers side. If I switched my power steering tank and one hose to the power stroke style (mounts by the fuse panel instead of on the fender), it would be much easier (but it would be another $80 or so). Another option would be to use optima batteries (which are slightly smaller). However, I have two large interstate batteries to use so I may have to rotate the battery mount alittle.
#82
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Wreed you beat me to it. I was just going to post the same thing.
You are doing a nicer job than I did. I hope to clean mine up this winter. I however will not be doing it outside, 4 degrees out side right now.
How did you mod your a/c lines to make them work?
You are doing a nicer job than I did. I hope to clean mine up this winter. I however will not be doing it outside, 4 degrees out side right now.
How did you mod your a/c lines to make them work?
Last edited by Hammily; 12-01-2007 at 10:03 AM. Reason: fixen
#83
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Ohhh don't be a wuss! Get out there and Get R Done!
Seriously, it's looking great! You and DW will have one heck of a ride to drop off the kids to school with! And you can "Roll a little coal" when you do..
..
#84
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I forgot all about the "Cummins" badges I've got around here somewhere... need to find them now I guess.
Well, the ice is gone now but it's still raining...
Here's a shot of the Ford AC line next to the Dodge AC line, I plan on using the ford ends (condensor end and evaporator canistor end) on the dodge hoses. I just looked and the smaller lines are both 10mm, but the larger lines are 3/4" vs. 5/8". I'll have to see if someone can splice these somehow.
Well, the ice is gone now but it's still raining...
Here's a shot of the Ford AC line next to the Dodge AC line, I plan on using the ford ends (condensor end and evaporator canistor end) on the dodge hoses. I just looked and the smaller lines are both 10mm, but the larger lines are 3/4" vs. 5/8". I'll have to see if someone can splice these somehow.
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#86
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Hey 5.9Excursion
I would like to know if you had any firewall clearance problems when doing the 5.9 swap?
The reason I ask is I'm gonna put the 5.9 CTD under my '90 Bronco, a few from another forum have done diesel swaps into Broncos but they had to lift the body a few inches to make clearance for the diesel engines.
I've been following your swap from the start, and I must have missed a post, are you swapping in a 12V or a 24V?
Keep up the Great work, can't wait to see this "Smokin Down the Road"
Rob
I would like to know if you had any firewall clearance problems when doing the 5.9 swap?
The reason I ask is I'm gonna put the 5.9 CTD under my '90 Bronco, a few from another forum have done diesel swaps into Broncos but they had to lift the body a few inches to make clearance for the diesel engines.
I've been following your swap from the start, and I must have missed a post, are you swapping in a 12V or a 24V?
Keep up the Great work, can't wait to see this "Smokin Down the Road"
Rob
#87
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#89
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No firewall issues with the motor or body issues with the tranny. No body lift needed. Matter of fact there is still room to move it back some. Right now there is maybe 1" of clearance between the fan and the ford radiator (just enough room to remove the fan if needed). At some point I'll try to take some pics of the back of the engine to firewall clearance.
It stopped raining yesterday evening and it actually got to 58 degrees about 9pm So I finished most of all the wiring and got the battery put in it. I primed the fuel system, have one leak to take care off...
Now I need to load the ATS standalone controller software onto a laptop and setup the controller.
A high of 35 today and very windy...
It stopped raining yesterday evening and it actually got to 58 degrees about 9pm So I finished most of all the wiring and got the battery put in it. I primed the fuel system, have one leak to take care off...
Now I need to load the ATS standalone controller software onto a laptop and setup the controller.
A high of 35 today and very windy...
#90
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Here's a pic of the parts I got from JEGS for the trans cooling lines. I only replaced two lines (tranny to front cooler, and cooler on the block to the front cooler). I used the modified stock line from MASS Diesel for the block cooler to the trans (has the tranny temp sendor port already in it). I also kept the stock 1' rubber hoses with quick disconnect fittings on them that attach directly to the front cooler. One of them has a check valve fitting in one end.
In the picture below, the three fittings on the right go from the transmission to the front cooler line (check valve fitting). Part numbers are 110105, 111022, & 111002. The three fittings on the bottom go from the block mounted cooler to the front cooler (I kept 3" of factory hard line to go into the stock 1' hose with quick disconnect fittings), I could of removed this rubber hose and just went straight to the cooler hardline but it was hard to get to at this point. Part numbers are 111022, 111002, 110553.
All fittings are either for -8AN, 1/2" hard tube, SS braided hose or 1/4" NPT (on the transmission). I purchased 15' of braided hose, but 10' would have worked.
In the picture below, the three fittings on the right go from the transmission to the front cooler line (check valve fitting). Part numbers are 110105, 111022, & 111002. The three fittings on the bottom go from the block mounted cooler to the front cooler (I kept 3" of factory hard line to go into the stock 1' hose with quick disconnect fittings), I could of removed this rubber hose and just went straight to the cooler hardline but it was hard to get to at this point. Part numbers are 111022, 111002, 110553.
All fittings are either for -8AN, 1/2" hard tube, SS braided hose or 1/4" NPT (on the transmission). I purchased 15' of braided hose, but 10' would have worked.