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Ford Excursion cummins swap (HPCR & 48RE)

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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 10:12 PM
  #31  
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That is really looking good. You are a few weeks or maybe months ahead of me on the same project. I have a 96 suburban with a 12v that I need to sell and then I wil buy an excursion with a V10 and put an 05 cummins with the 48re. I dont know if you know this or not but there is a few years since 03 that the cummins computor controlled the trans as well. So I am planning on using the year of computor when Cummins was controlling the trans. I work at the cummins tech center in columbus IN and an engineer was telling me what years they switched back and forth. If you need to know which years let me know and I will ask him again if you do not already have this info.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 10:18 PM
  #32  
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Awsome!! Did you know that there is only a adapter for Cummins to Ford and not the other way around. Says alot about Cummins. If there is an adapter the other way I never heard or seen it.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 11:35 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by J OOPS
Awsome!! Did you know that there is only a adapter for Cummins to Ford and not the other way around. Says alot about Cummins. If there is an adapter the other way I never heard or seen it.
They have them for chevy's too. The 4bta's used in step vans were usually on a Ford of GM chassis, so they have adapters to each transmission.
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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 12:30 PM
  #34  
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5.9Excursion - Great Thread... and a Great Project... I will be checking in to see and maybe get more ideas, following your progress...

I have the same kind of project in the planning stages, although a bit of a different approach. I have a 1990 Ford Bronco that is going to get the Cummins diesel for a heart.

The way that I want to do it, is to find a wrecked Dodge Ram Truck (preferably rolled) remove the totaled body from the frame, leaving the engine, drive line, and frame intact, I'll have to shorten the frame by at least 31" move the rear axle up by the same amount,and then mount the Bronco body onto the frame.

I'm going to start a new thread, as I don't want to hi-jack this one.

Keep up the good work...

Rob aka stargate2112
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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 04:56 PM
  #35  
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Your wife's a trooper You're making good progress. Can't wait to see how it all turns out. Keep the pics coming. Is the mbrp a single or duals?
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 11:34 PM
  #36  
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Got most of the exhaust installed, I bought a MBRP stainless kit for a 7.3 diesel excursion and am planning on using my downpipe I bought to go with the SPS62 turbo. Looks like it will turn out great. The muffler looks so good I could hardly mount it out of sight... Still haven't put the 5" tip on the tailpipe yet though.

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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 11:43 PM
  #37  
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Got the fuel tank removed today (huge is an understatement). Removed the factory fuel pump and pickup assembly, discarded the fuel pump, and reused the factory fuel line headed out from the pump as a 2nd return line. Installed a draw straw and it worked perfect. The draw straw sits in the bottom of the fuel canister pickup assembly which sucks off the bottom 1/4" of the tank and is also kept full by the fuel return lines. The only problem I had was that I need more fuel line. With the tank behind the rear axle the fuel line runs are pretty long. Also modified the fuel inlet to the tank so I can fill up at truck stops.

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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 12:19 AM
  #38  
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Nice fingers!
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 12:23 AM
  #39  
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I see your fingers are healing. LOL
Well atleast enough to get some work done today. Looks good
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 10:02 AM
  #40  
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WOW that is an impressive swap man!
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 10:12 AM
  #41  
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Just looking at that picture with your burnt fingers makes me cringe. OUCH!!!

What a cool swap though! I'm sure it'll be worth the burnt fingers when you are done.
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 10:52 AM
  #42  
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thats awesome!!! Excusion with a ctd is a great idea. Keep us updated...Im definetly subscribing to this thread..

ben
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 12:54 PM
  #43  
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You could actually see the imprint of the stainless steel braided hose in six of my fingers

If anyone wants a turbo oil line which is like new for cheap let me know, it only got smokin' hot once (literally).

Did anyone notice in some of the pics the black mats on the driveway? If you are crazy like me and do all this sort of work in your driveway, these black mats are worth their weight in gold. They are 1" thick pipe insulation (come in 4' wide rolls about 60' long. I have been using them as mats to lay on when working outside or in the garage. Makes it much easier on your knees, elbows, back, etc...

I got 35' of 3/8" bio friendly fuel line ordered to finish off the fuel line runs from vulcan performance. Mounted the 2 micron remote filter setup under the drivers side floor of the cab just behind the wheel well opening to shield it from rocks (no pics yet).

This weekend I should hopefully get all the gauges installed above the rearview mirror (quad pod for EGT, boost, tranny temp, and fuel pressure).
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 03:08 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 5.9Excursion
If anyone wants a turbo oil line which is like new for cheap let me know, it only got smokin' hot once (literally).
How did it get that hot?

Chris
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 03:22 PM
  #45  
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The engine was still on its crate with both batteries hooked up (basically ready to start and run). I was swapping turbo's and swung the oil line (loose on the turbo end) forward and hooked it on the engine block heater wiring which was coiled up in that area. When I let go it tried to straighten out and the end of the line contacted the one little exposed piece of the metal connector on the alternator cable that is directly connected to the batteries. As I turned away I noticed something rising, looked back and the entire line was smoking... so stupid me I think I better move that line before it gets too hot and damages something...

Reached over and toasted six fingers, thumb and first two fingers on both hands. Yelled so loud I freaked my kids out who were nearby. So I grabbed a wrench and knocked the line loose and ran into the house for water...

I have a new respect for working on an engine with the batteries still connected. When installing parts, I've always thought why would these instructions say disconnect the batteries first? I'm not affecting them at all? Now I know why....
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