Seeing how this project is becoming quite popular, I thought a running dialogue would be nice. We all have our build posts and blogs, and we all try to keep them updated and to check in on each other from time to time; however, it seems that I am always searching and waiting for answers. I often even post my questions in the 1st Gen forum just to get quicker replies. So why not just start a running dialogue where we can post questions and bounce ideas, without sorting through pages of threads?

I fire the first question: How have you all dealt with undercoating, are you starting from fresh or simply re-spraying? Also has anyone heard of Second Skins Spectrum undercoating? http://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadener/spectrum.php?category=121

 

Just learned that the front/front spring bolt didn't change size until 92. looks like i am in the clear there.

 

Going to use Por15 on my bronco rebuild....if/when I get to it.

 

I am using OSPHO, it is like $25 a gallon and has worked great. It is basically phosphoric acid and it converts the rust. Just wet with water, spray, and paint.

 

I've used ospho and yes it works well....but then you'll need a protective coating to prevent further rust.

 

I would like to hear from somebody that has actually used Lizard Skin. I want to kill as much sound as possible and Boom mat/Dyna-mat/etc is pretty spendy. All I have heard about Lizard Skin is from people trying to sell it.

 

I would be up to that too. No one on hear seems to have used any of these high end coatings.

 

never used the product but it might be worth a look,
http://www.hytechsales.com/index.html
basically it`s the same technology used in lizard skin (ceramic spheres) that you can mix into almost any carrier/paint (or you can buy their paint with the stuff already in it)

 

What I've done, and other I know, is to get a good powerful pressure washer, then blast the undercoating and knocking any loose pieces off. Once clean and sure all the loose undercoating is removed, then reapply a fresh coat over everything. you can also "fill" the low areas with a small spray can of undercoating, and then once dry re spray.

 

Well I went with 3M budget undercoating. It is rubberized and cost about $7.50. The only difference I saw between it and the $14 3M was the more expensive one being paintable. I am good with black. I would have liked to try the Second Skinz, but in the absence of info went with a more known and less expensive option. 4 cans still cost $60, about a $30 difference from the premium stuff. I will make up sound insulation with matting I suppose. I want my project to be as quite as an old dodge with a noisy cummins can be.

 

Well, after pulling the fifth wheel to the coast and back last weekend with my wife, full-sized son, and black lab in the cab of my standard cab 91 I am back to work on my crew again finally. I got the diesel tank up against the frame rail, relocated the carrier bearing cross member to make room, and laid my Stan's exhaust in place. I bought my Stan's two years ago and did not know how it would fit the crew cab short bed since it was designed for a club cab long bed. It fits beautifully. I don't think I will even need to modify it to fit past the ramcharger fuel tank I have am putting in the back of the frame. I will get some picks and restart my build thread soon.

 

It is time to build a new mounting plate for the tranny cross member, please give me some starting direction. Thanks

 

This is what I have under my nv4500. It is set back 1 set of holes in the frame. The plate under the piece of square tubing is also factory. I think is is flipped upside down from stock. Sorry for the out of focus pic.


This is the stock ctd cross member. I think it is out of a 92 or 93

 

Here are part numbers for new isolators.

 

Sorry for the multi-posts, but here is the set-up the way it was when it was in the ctd truck. The bright member is what was in my crew. The dirty one is the one I put in from the donor. With an auto, the piece of square tube would be gone and the tranny would mount to the plate. You can see that the tab on the plate is now forward and up, where in the other pics, it is rearward and down.