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B3.3T Jeep YJ

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Old 12-03-2008, 09:59 AM
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Thanks again for the reply. If I understand correctly, I will need #3903552 40.5mm flange & #3903652 V-band clamp to attach exhaust tubing to the turbocharger. Correct?

I plan to use an expansion joint for vibration isolation. I assume the closer to the turbocharger as practical the better?
Old 12-03-2008, 11:27 AM
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Yes.. that pair should work. I have a correction the 3282938 is 200mm not 20mm.

Did you get a good deal on the 231? I need a spare, and who gave you the best price for the slip yoke eliminator and driveshaft?
Old 12-03-2008, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Macet
Yes.. that pair should work. I have a correction the 3282938 is 200mm not 20mm.

Did you get a good deal on the 231? I need a spare, and who gave you the best price for the slip yoke eliminator and driveshaft?
I paid $150 shipped for the 1999 XJ 231J with 28k miles. I found it on www.car-part.com . XJ transfercases usually sell for less than Wrangler transfercases.

I haven't purchased a SYE yet. The best price I've found for a SYE is http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=320318514131 .
Old 12-09-2008, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Macet
The heater is a 4b-6b heater #3975628 I used a cast 3/4npt to 1 inch bushing brazed to a plate with holes drilled. Hasn't passed leak test though. Got to get it running, but should be ok. If you would like to try I can get you some dimensions...................I am going to use Cummins cord p/n 3923050 that's around 30.00. I think the whole thing will work better than the heater that is made for that engine (cup plug type) I don’t like then.
Macet,
Now that the ambient temps have cooled, how is your engine block heater working?

I've been studying:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25551533@N03/2435740317/

If I understand correctly, the Cummins heater has 3/4 NPT threads? Do you think I could drill and tap 3/4" thick steel plate for 3/4" NPT instead of using the bushing? Or does the length of the heater require it to be "spaced-out" from the engine

If necessary, I could use a 2000 psig 3/4" NPT "black" coupling, cur it to length, and weld it to 1/4' or 3/8" plate. I could bore and counter bore the plate to create a "register" for the coupling.

Does Cummins make a gasket for the block surface?
Old 12-09-2008, 11:17 AM
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It works nicely, we have been in the mid twenties and in the morning I am around 110.

3975628 ¾ thread 20.6mm thread length The element length is 73mm. There is also a 220 version same dimensions.

Steel plate will not work, you are right the heater needs to be spaced out. A coupling would work fine. If you like, I can measure what I have made.


Cummins does not make a gasket I used black high temp RTV. If it leaks I will cut one myself.

Bolt centers are 1.77 * 1.42

Take a look at http://www.kimhotstart.commay be cheaper.
Old 12-09-2008, 08:15 PM
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A measurement will be appreciated. Thanks.
Old 12-20-2008, 10:13 PM
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Sorry to interrupt but my explorer project it just about done!

No mileage calcs yet but things are going well. AC works, PS and hydroboost work. My alternator brackets fit nice with a stock belt no less. A somewhat OEM looking install. I'm trying to get my tach working next.

Old 12-23-2008, 08:59 AM
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Congrats! Looks good. Are you at stock settings on the fueling or have you done some modifying?

Do any of you other guys have the intake grid heater starting option? It's been extremely cold here in Iowa. I've cold soaked the jeep while at work several times when the highs were below 0F. It still started pretty good, but I think without the grid heater it would've been a different story.

Originally Posted by mooktank
Sorry to interrupt but my explorer project it just about done!

No mileage calcs yet but things are going well. AC works, PS and hydroboost work. My alternator brackets fit nice with a stock belt no less. A somewhat OEM looking install. I'm trying to get my tach working next.

Old 12-24-2008, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by TDIwyse
Do any of you other guys have the intake grid heater starting option? It's been extremely cold here in Iowa. I've cold soaked the jeep while at work several times when the highs were below 0F. It still started pretty good, but I think without the grid heater it would've been a different story.
My QSB3.3T came with a grid heater. I think I'm going to install the 4BT/6BT block heater that Macet used, also.
Old 01-01-2009, 06:11 PM
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So far cold starting has been hard. Harder than my other 4BT.

It takes a few tries to get it going when it's really cold.

I think I would like to toss on a block heater. Any good ideas?
Old 01-01-2009, 09:03 PM
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Do you run any fuel treatment? It may help...a little.

Is your motor using a grid heater? With the grid heater engaged, what is the battery voltage?

What is your battery health like?

Tony
Old 01-01-2009, 09:10 PM
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Hello all, Finally got around to registering. AWESOME INFO on this thread! A big thumbs up to all. I'm in the process of trying to decide if I want a 3.3 or a 3.9 in my explorer. Great reading, has me leaning more towards the 3.3 now. I'm still a bit partial to the 3.9 though.
Keep up the good work!
Later,
SS
Old 01-02-2009, 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by mooktank
So far cold starting has been hard. Harder than my other 4BT.

It takes a few tries to get it going when it's really cold.

I think I would like to toss on a block heater. Any good ideas?
Originally Posted by Macet
The heater is a 4b-6b heater #3975628 I used a cast 3/4npt to 1 inch bushing brazed to a plate with holes drilled. Hasn't passed leak test though. Got to get it running, but should be ok. If you would like to try I can get you some dimensions. Also the link below may have the heater cheaper. I am going to use Cummins cord p/n 3923050 that's around 30.00. I think the whole thing will work better than the heater that is made for that engine (cup plug type) I don’t like then.

http://www.kimhotstart.com/kimhotsta...00_catalog.pdf
Originally Posted by Macet
It works nicely, we have been in the mid twenties and in the morning I am around 110.

3975628 ¾ thread 20.6mm thread length The element length is 73mm. There is also a 220 version same dimensions.

Steel plate will not work, you are right the heater needs to be spaced out. A coupling would work fine. If you like, I can measure what I have made.


Cummins does not make a gasket I used black high temp RTV. If it leaks I will cut one myself.

Bolt centers are 1.77 * 1.42

Take a look at http://www.kimhotstart.com may be cheaper.
Check the link. It's a pic of Macet's block heater. Seems like a good idea. I think you could use a 2000 psig 3/4" NPT "black" coupling, cut it to length, and weld it to 3/8" plate to "space it" instead of the galvanized bushing. You could bore, then counter bore the plate to create a "register" for the coupling. Cummins #3975628 is about $80.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25551533@N03/2435740317/
Old 01-07-2009, 11:53 AM
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Just replaced the battery. It's CCA's were down to 450 when checked at the store. It made it 2.5 yrs in the jeep. Its the same battery type as I'm using in my VW TDI. I also had to replace the VW's this weekend as its CCA's were down to 470. The VW's only lasted 2 yrs. Both were the Werker brand and I got some warranty coverage on both.
Old 01-14-2009, 12:08 PM
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I haven't been on here in a while and see there has been quite a bit of activity!!
With all the talk about cold starting my solution has been to do nothing. I have a grid heater but have not installed it and do not have a block heater. My truck starts down to about 10 degrees reasonably well. Few hits and stumbles then fires right up. Last night the temp was -1 at my house and my truck had been sitting for over 24hrs. Crank over easy enough but no start small shot of ether and fired right up. I am pretty impressed with the cold starting of this engine as my deere skidsteer will not start without the grid heater below about 25.

I have 22,000 miles and counting engine runs great truck sucks driving in the snow


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