Its less common then vp44 problems and cheaper to fix

 

You've got that right! I'm going through the VP thing right now!

 

me 2 I have a deal on hrvp's though pm me if interested

 

Update to my latest Repair attempt, 16 weeks and 2000+ mi.s NO LEAK.

The last test for this repair will be Pulling our 5th Wheel Camper and puting some Stress on the Block. Its still a little to Cold for that test.....soon I hope.....Getting Cabin Fever.

As soon as I feel confident this is working I'll be sending Chris some Pictures and Descriptions of the Repair attempts I have done so he can post them on his site at http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummin.

 

I have a cracked block in a 99 Freightliner Step Van. The crack is so long is will cost too much to repair with Lock-n Stitch due to the price of the reinforcement brackets. It would take 3 of them at over $455 each to keep it from cracking again.

Has anyone had any luck getting it sealed internally or externally and then staying sealed?

I have several second generation 12V blocks. Can the 24V components be transferred to a 12V block. It only has 120k miles on it, so I hate to waste all those good parts.

 

Cummins will pay for the block, bearings, gaskets, rings and pistons if they show grading. you have to call the 800 number for cummins. unfortunately you have to pay labor but you are getting a new block and etc. I worked for cummins and have done 3-4 of these. I am not the Cummins manager for an independant dealer and have checked on doing another. it is definately cheaper to do the lock and stich if possible but Cummins will cover some of the expense.

 

Thanks for the good news, I'll check into that approach, but I was told when I bought this vehicle the warranty was 1 year/25k miles. Its now 9 years old with 120k miles on it.

 

Sorry to hear about your cracked 53. I use LNS and it has lasted me 3 years until last weekend. I smelled the familiar antifreeze smell. First thought was the 53 gave up the ghost again. Did not want to look as I was enjoying myself deer hunting on the second Missouri muzzleloader weekend. Topped it off and looked Monday evening. My suspicion was correct. The question is did it crack at the original repair or somewhere by the repair. I plan to do some kind of repair again. I might try to LNS myself. It looks pretty easy, just a difficult location. I might try a high grade of epoxy to at least slow it down. I drive less then 10k miles a year. I could live with a little seepage. You just don't know if you can trust it. I feel like I jinxed myself because I just reported about a month ago about my LNS repair. It is not a good way to go into xmas season, but things could be much worst. What are all them autoworkers thinking right now?


Brian

 

First, there's an un-cracked 53 block engine for sale cheap in California:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/947746819.html

I talked to the guy. It's from a '99 that was burned. He doesn't know how many miles are on it, but it comes with a core VP-44. $500.00

... and this NON 53 in Yakima WA
http://yakima.craigslist.org/pts/948659574.html

I don't know your situation, but if it were me, I'd re-engage on the epoxy. Others posts have mentioned specific epoxies to use. My tip: get a vacuum pump and pull a signicant vacuum on the block when you apply the epoxy. It's a bit of a hassle pulling the hoses and plugging things up, but it will greatly increase the amount of epoxy that get INTO the crack. I repaired a cracked Chevy inline 6 block with four three inch long cracks, and drove it that way for 5 years. Never ever leaked a drop. Anything short of replacing the block is likely to be a temporary fix.

 

I made a Plate which bolted to the engine and motor mount with a gasket and adjustable bolts to seat the gasket pushing on my engine block where my #53 block had a 8.5 inch crack,, Worked GREAT,, Then I came across a cummins on eBay for $2200.00 with 8500 miles on it in Ohio,i'm in Connecticut,,SO I drove to Ohio with my engine repair. I drove for Twelve thousand miles with the repair before I had time to put the new engine in. The old engine did not leak a drop with the repair,,,OF course it will only work on a standard trans truck,, I think the tranny cooler is in the way for my repair on an automatic.. Of course you cant see all the plate in this photo,,There are 3 adjustable bolts on it.

 

Do you think this would work? Since it is flexible I would think it could overcome the torque of a cummins. The idea of sucking it in the crack with vacuum sounds like it might be worth a try. If it fails at least you can grind off.

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/..._source=google

 

Has anyone used a 12V block to replace a cracked 53 block?
I have some from medium duty Ford trucks that were scrapped after scoring a piston. It wouldn't be too hard to clean up and reuse.