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Cracked Block #53

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Old 11-08-2005, 10:38 PM
  #16  
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you should look at throwing a 12v in there and poof your problems would be solved
Old 11-11-2005, 05:37 PM
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This is like a bad soap opera that just gets worse. RCW gave me some very good instructions in how to repair the crack and I got off work early today and I pulled the air breather and tried to find the exact location of the leak. I found the block had been coated with black epoxy in the area where the cylinders are from front to back and had small leaks in at least 3 places. It looks like time for another block. Should I have cummins install one for $6000, buy a motor from a wrecked truck for $2600, or put in a rebuilt engine for $3900. If i do either of the last two I will have to pay someone to do the change out since I am unable to do it. Owning a diesel is somewhat like Frank Sinatra's comment on owning a boat. "It is hole in the ocean that you pour your money into"
Old 11-11-2005, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by xmr
Owning a diesel is somewhat like Frank Sinatra's comment on owning a boat. "It is hole in the ocean that you pour your money into"

I guess I've got double jeapordy ... I own a boat and a 53 block too!

Sorry to hear about your 53 block problems, XMR, I feel for you!
Old 11-11-2005, 07:52 PM
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Save a ton of money and give R&G Machining of Mulino, Oregon a call. They have very good rebuilt baby Cummins long block for $3,095, and offer a warranty to boot.

The phone number is 1-800-823-6038.

OR, grind off the old epoxy, and get a look at the extent of the real damage and give another try at epoxy. Most epoxy fixes are made by guys that use the cheap stuff and it gives up the ghost quickly.

As far as purchasing a new engine, I would not do so unless I had a very open discussion with the Cummins Service Center and was assured I was getting a new heavy block from a US or Canadian plant with all the oiling and piston updates. You will spring the six grand for a new long block, then on the high side of four grand for the labor to install the thing.

Nose around your area for a local diesel club, and you will likely find a retired member with a shop and time to help you swap engines. That is the best solution, then go with a rebuilt and pocket the difference. To find a local diesel club, attend a sanctioned Saturday night street drag competition, and you will find a number of diesels out there stomping the cr@p out of the rice burners. Tag one of those guys and they will point you in the right direction to locate the diesel gunners in your area.
Old 11-25-2005, 11:01 AM
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[IMG][/IMG]

This is a Picture of the Crack in my 53 Block (that doesn't Exist!). As you can see it is a very small Hairline Crack approx.3 1/2 in.s long and it causes a Antifreeze Leak. The resulting Leak is approxamately 1/4 gal. in 1000 mi.s in normal driving and increases when towing.

Over the last 10 months I have tried several Epoxys on this without success. Curently trying a product used to repair Cast Iron Heating Radiators and Explosion Proof Electrical Enclosures. I have 3 weeks and 400 mi.s on the most recent patch, no leak so far.

I'll keep all posted on future results.

WALSTIB !!
Old 11-25-2005, 11:22 AM
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What is the name of the product? Did you drill either end of the crack, to stop it from growing, before you repaired it? I hope this works out for you.
Old 11-25-2005, 01:39 PM
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The Epoxy is "Propoxy20" by Hercules Chemical Co. and can be found at Plumbing Supply Distributors.

No I did Not drill. I was concerned with wall thickness (or Lack of Thickness) of the Water Jacket.

According to the application directions the surface should be Roughened By Filing or Sanding as you can see I did.



Hope this helps.

WALSTIB !!
Old 12-17-2005, 05:13 PM
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Update: 16 Weeks 2000 mi.s NO LEAK

Haven't pulled a trailer since the repair, that will be a final test for this repair.


Not the Prettiest of Repairs, the Stains on the block are from earlier repairs.
As soon as I am happy it is not going to leak I will grind it Smooth and Paint.

WALSTIB!!
Old 12-17-2005, 06:34 PM
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good to hear...pics dont work though
Old 12-17-2005, 07:10 PM
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I thought I read somewhere on this (or another) site, that if you have a 53 block, it would have cracked a long time ago if it was going to crack.

Now you have me wanting to go see if mine has the #53 anywhere on it.
Old 12-17-2005, 08:56 PM
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I just pulled my engine from my 01 it had 247,000 + mles im the 2nd owner of the truck it was bone stock when i got it @ 243,000+ then the BOMBS began and i sled pulled many times untill i finally blew a H/G and burnt 4 piston and a valve , So when i pulled it the other day i saw 53 in big letters near the bottom i was very dissapointed i was going to rebuild but i dunno now because of the issues i havent looked for cracks but i will disasemble and look if i cant find any ill have it checked
Old 12-17-2005, 09:13 PM
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Wink block options

I have a 99 with a 53 block and a little over 200 k on it if it cracks i plan to drill 2 holes and weld it up with some high nickel rod . I have had good results with this on exhaust manifolds and other engine blocks. By the way has anyone checked our 2nd gen ads???
Old 12-17-2005, 10:43 PM
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After seeing this post i had to go check out my 99 and i lucked out and don't have the 53 block, thank god.
Old 12-18-2005, 12:24 AM
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Stop over reacting! If it happens, it happens! I know I'm going to get sh$t for this, but it's not that common a problem ... deal with it IF it happens. I have one too. No point in worrying about it now. What are you going to do, trade it in (or sell it) to some unsuspecting dealer/buyer, make it someone else's broblem? That's a real model idea! Rattlerbob5.9 has the right idea.
Old 12-18-2005, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by piperca
What are you going to do, trade it in (or sell it) to some unsuspecting dealer/buyer, make it someone else's broblem? That's a real model idea!
Not trying to start any thing but just stating my opinion. That is exactly what all trade-in vehicles are, why else would someone get rid of a perfectly good vehicle.


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