Stamey

OK, I did my first 2 pulls over the weekend, The first being 275' and the second at 290', but breaking the LR axle. No big deal, at least it was a whole lot cheaper than anything else that could have broken besides u-joints. Axle's fixed now.
Anyway, one guy, who said he dynoed less than me, at 525hp, outpulled my by 25 feet, so I'd like to know what else I can do to my truck to set it up better for pulling.
Before I went to the pull, I put 950 lbs of sandbags in the back of the truck, right at the tailgate. That dropped the rear 3". I realize now that I didn't really need all that sand in there.
The rules at this pull were hitch height at 24", max. I had it 24.5 because my hitch only adjusts in 2" increments. They let it slide.

The truck is my 99, QC shortbed, with camper and tow package (has overload springs and sway bar). I have 315/75-16 Pro-Comp All Terrains on it now. No extra weights in the front. I ran in 4Lo, Drive, with OD locked out.
I heard someone say that having a shortbed was handicapping me. The two trucks that beat me were long bed, a 97, 12v, 2500 with a 351' pull, and a 2001 3500 with a 315' pull).
I know about the ladder bards, and they are on order.
I know I should have the hitch height was high as I can, up to 30 inches.
What else can I do to improve the pulling of this truck? Is the short bed that much of a handicap?

Thanks,
Chris

signature600

Front and Rear Lockers, Redline Box, Cam and Valvesprings, etc, etc!!

Some others will have to get into specifics, I don't sledpull!
Chris

blackdiesel

put all the weight that you put in the bed on the front of the frame. You've got it at the wrong end lol!

XLR8R

Is that because the sled tends to lift the rear of the truck?

blackdiesel

????? the sled lifts the front of the truck. thats why you put the weight on the front so it will get more traction

XLR8R

Gee, why don't you tell me how you really feel... ( )

I was referring to the weight in relation to hitch height, especially when it's low.

Stamey

Yeah, I know about my weight mistake. I don't know that I'm going to put a bracket on the front for weights, but it's possible. It depends on what class I eventually end up running in. I have twins, so this knocks me out of the street class in some pulls, but if I can get into street class, usually no weihts are allowed up front. If I end up in one of the other classes weights are allowed, I think, but then again, it depends on the track rules and/or sanctioning body.
What else whould I do, assuming that my power and tranny are taken care of?
I wonder about tires, blocks, or other tricks.

Thanks,
Chris

blackdiesel

if i was going to sledpull, i would get some 33's that have an aggressive tread. However, they would be half or less than half tread left. Then take some round metal stock and remove the bump stops on the rear of the frame, and bolt the stock on so you only have 1/2" to an inch of travel.

Then depending on class, hang a weight bar over the front that is bolted to the frame.

blackdiesel

Gee, i dont guess i know what your trying to say then.

Are you saying that the weight needs to be on the back of the truck? or the front?

or maybe something like if you put 950 lbs in the back of the truck that it will lower the rear end 3 - 5 inches, but then just raise the hitch back up to where it needs to be???

Stamey

Part of the reasoning for the weight in my case was that it did drop the rear, and hitch, from 31.5" to 28.5", and then I still had to drop th ehitch down another 4" due to the rules. I guess I had preloaded my springs so I had less travel?
Now that you mention the blocks, I am thinking about a design that would be removable blocks, in that it would be a plate with a block in it, that had holes so it could be positioned over the u-bolts that stick up from the housing bracket. The top would be blunt and contatc the fram. They'd just have to be short enough to fit between the frome and the tops of th ebolts, then you set it down on the bracket bolts and your block is in place for th epull. When the pull is iver you just remove the blocks and your ride home doesn't suffer. You could thread a nut onto them if you were worried about them vibrating off, but I doubt they'd go anywhere since the suspension will be quite compressed while you giving them the most vibration they'll ever see.


Chris

blackdiesel

yup, that would work. sounds like you've got it all figured out!

Stamey

OK, so some blocks would be good. What else?

What kind of handicap is my shortbed in sled pulling?

Thanks,
Chris

RAT_03

some Dick Cepeks pulling tires lol

PourinDiesel

Weights in the bed are completely useless.

Block your suspension solid and raised.
To install my suspension blocks before a pull I have to jack the frame rails up. It ends up raising the rear end up about 2" or 3". This also helps if you are not hanging weights because it helps keep the nose of the truck down.

Hang weight!!

The short bed is a handicap but its not a deal breaker.

Super high hitch height is not always your friend. On tough or real tight tracks lowering the hitch down to the 24" or 22" area can sometimes help because it will take some of the load off of your tires and let you spin them a little more.

Stamey

I guess I need to find some place to practice. Problem with this last pull was we only got one pull, so you had to go in with what you thought was best, not trying anything out, like different hitch heights, etc.

Thanks,
Chris