Lets brainstorm for a minute here...
#61
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Omaha, AR
Posts: 4,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brian, not to rain too much on your parade, but the average cost for a Pro Diesel truck is ~85-100k. Used parts can make it less, but figure on replacing them for more $$ in the end. Most of the Pro Diesel guys are finding out that too much quicker the 10.99 quarter ends in regularly destroyed engines/turbos/drivetrain parts. That's what makes the Quick Diesel index class so attractive. You can race a daily driver reliably instead of replacing $10k of block every 2-3 races.
brandon.
so if i make 3-4 8 second runs ill be replacing the block? (or some drivetrain componet??)
i can handle buying all of this once, but after the 3-4 times it starts to hack me off.....
#62
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: calgary
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#63
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Backwoods of Missouri CSA
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
9 inch rearends are pretty much junk unless you completely replace everything in them with aftermarket parts except for the housing. And even the housing will need a backbrace. The amount you have to spend to get one to hold the power that a stock D80 will hold would be immense. To get one to reliably hold a 750ish hp super pro car requires aftermarket axles, aftermarket pinion supports, aftermarket gear carriers unless you can locate a nodular and I wouldn't plan on that thing lasting as long as an aftermarket unit.And that is in a car only making 700 foot pounds of torque. They can be built to hold the power but it will require loads of money. Even the black 10 second 4X4 is still running a D70. And I bet you'll find a D70 under TS Performance 10.24 truck as well. If you were to build one to last behind a 1500hp Cummins I would look into a unit designed for a Pro Mod application.
#64
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: waterford ca
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
a nine inch is used the most in drag racing b/c they are the least expensive rearend to build, and the strongset thing out there. i know guys that have swaped from a dana 60 to a 9inch b/c of the weight and the cost and strength they really arnt that expensive to built i got a strange steel case third member and gears for 700 dollars and the built braced housing for another 700 strange brakes for 350. $1750 less axles and it a strong 35 spline spool rear end not too bad if you ask me. thats all me and my dad have ever ran in mid 8 second cars in the 160 mph range trust me they work.
#65
Registered User
hmmmmm
after reading all through this thread, If you want a fast truck, buld it,
Sounds like you got the money, or are gonna have it! lots of people could afford it!
My Dad could build me one! if its in the 50k - 100k range then its the price of only "one" of his rock trucks im driving everyday...
and we are burning 5,200 gallons of #2 a week, now multiply that by the cost of diesel and and like that for "some" months....
BUT! Its all what you wanna do with the money....
my dad aint into racing, so he would NEVER spend it on that! the only important thing is a chip (fuel plate) in a diesel he drives. To pass ppl when its necesary
after reading all through this thread, If you want a fast truck, buld it,
Sounds like you got the money, or are gonna have it! lots of people could afford it!
My Dad could build me one! if its in the 50k - 100k range then its the price of only "one" of his rock trucks im driving everyday...
and we are burning 5,200 gallons of #2 a week, now multiply that by the cost of diesel and and like that for "some" months....
BUT! Its all what you wanna do with the money....
my dad aint into racing, so he would NEVER spend it on that! the only important thing is a chip (fuel plate) in a diesel he drives. To pass ppl when its necesary
#66
Registered User
and as far as tuning it! Yuo wont be sitting on your computer chair on DTR, asking questions....
Youll have to tune, really tune by yourself, go with the big guys...
PDR; PDW; SHEIDS; HAISLEY ETC!
Youll have to tune, really tune by yourself, go with the big guys...
PDR; PDW; SHEIDS; HAISLEY ETC!
#67
9 inch rearends are pretty much junk unless you completely replace everything in them with aftermarket parts except for the housing. And even the housing will need a backbrace. The amount you have to spend to get one to hold the power that a stock D80 will hold would be immense. To get one to reliably hold a 750ish hp super pro car requires aftermarket axles, aftermarket pinion supports, aftermarket gear carriers unless you can locate a nodular and I wouldn't plan on that thing lasting as long as an aftermarket unit.And that is in a car only making 700 foot pounds of torque. They can be built to hold the power but it will require loads of money. Even the black 10 second 4X4 is still running a D70. And I bet you'll find a D70 under TS Performance 10.24 truck as well. If you were to build one to last behind a 1500hp Cummins I would look into a unit designed for a Pro Mod application.
Don't get me wrong a D80 is a great axle for our truck applications, but it's size and brute housing strength (and enormous weight) are simply not needed in a drag application.
All of the major drag race rearend suppliers sell narrowed 9" axles in a variety of flange to flange widths, already braced, and trussed, with any style bearing end you want, and will even set them up for any suspension type you want to run (if you can give them the required measurements). Since these are considered standard designs for them, they have stacks of axleshafts ready to ship, should you ever break one (instead of waiting days for another set of custom length Dana axles to be made).
The Ford 9 inch is a proven axle in drag applications, and it's popularity makes for readily available parts. Even the custom Mark Williams unit posted previously is based on the 9 inch design, if it wasn't a good axle do you think they would have copied it for such a custom application.
I would not recommend a 9 inch for a drag application,based on a modern truck, such as the TS truck since the stock axle is plenty strong, and it needs no modifications to fit under the truck, but since TEX wants to build a classic body style hot rod, and he will need a custom axle either way, the 9 inch is the better choice IMO.
#68
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Backwoods of Missouri CSA
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can see them working if built to pro mod style specs. But I wouldn't want to confuse anyone into thinking that a weak stock 9 inch will hold more than stock gasser power.
#69
Your right, but even stock D70s break sometimes when asked to handle 1,000+ lb-ft. My point is that since no stock axle is going to work in his application, and he is going to be spending money on axle mods anyway, I think his money would be better spent on the 9 inch, but it's his money, and he can spend it as he wishes.
#70
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: waterford ca
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
a good built 9in hold up to arond 1000 ft lbs or torque all day long even leaving at 5 to 6 grand on a trans brake (which is like side stepping a clutch) in a 2600 pound car with a mitler brothers housing, strange case, 35 spline strange axles and it lasted 2 or 3 seasons without one problem. i have never expienced any problems with a 9in and been around drag racing since bout age 10 and now im 19.
#72
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Omaha, AR
Posts: 4,173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#73
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Backwoods of Missouri CSA
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
a good built 9in hold up to arond 1000 ft lbs or torque all day long even leaving at 5 to 6 grand on a trans brake (which is like side stepping a clutch) in a 2600 pound car with a mitler brothers housing, strange case, 35 spline strange axles and it lasted 2 or 3 seasons without one problem. i have never expienced any problems with a 9in and been around drag racing since bout age 10 and now im 19.
#74
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: waterford ca
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
to put and end to the rearend sagua i called a rear end parts supplier i use randys ring and pinion a 9inch with 40 spline gun drilled axles and a through bolt case will hold up to 1500 ft lbs of torque (dependant on the weight of the vehicle) i asked him about a d70 or d80 and said the above 9inch would be a better choice due to avaliblity of parts and strength but he said the best choice would be the modgluer excusse my spelling housing that i had posted before from mark williams would be the ideal setup. and gettin a vehicle to run in the sevens or 8's with a leaf spring setup could work with lots of money envoled and time tuning ythe rear suspention and wouldnt work good on the big end. a 4 link setup would be ideal and would have less time tuing the rear suspention and wouldnt have to worry about hooking up and wouldnt have the big end handling problem when getting out of the throttle with big tired vehicle and an anti roll bar on the rear suspention would eliminate that. pluse all of the adjustablity the 4 link offers with the cost of it, it is the way to go and saftey is important i wouldnt want to ride in a leaf sprung vehicle in the 8's in my own oppinion may as well do it right the first time and a latter bar system wouldnt be the way to go in my own opponion
#75
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Backwoods of Missouri CSA
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd also ask him how many diesel powered race vehicles he has built and piloted. As for strenght like mentioned the stock Dana 70 parts are holding up to 10 second passes. Some of the sled pulling guys on the east coast have already had to school the gasser trash guys on their thinking their parts would hold up. It's a different ball game. I think it was on one of Gene Mahoney's post about the gasser trash aftermarket axles not holding up to the diesels in sled pulling As for the 4 link. They are horrible for a street driven vehicle. Dips in the road and driveways will cause unbelieveable grief with a 4 link. A properly set-up 4 link should raise 3 tires off the ground when you try to raise 1. That doesn't make a good street/race vehicle. A leaf spring set-up on a big tired car would be a driveline eating son of a gun.