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Could I take off the bed for racing?

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Old May 8, 2009 | 07:09 PM
  #1  
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Could I take off the bed for racing?

Howdy, DTR...
I was wondering... if I took the bed off and built some fenders to lose some weight, would that hurt my traction?

I'm also planning on pulling all the seats, and buying a racing seat...

Gotta trim that fat. Those chevys are a lot lighter...


TIA!

mad
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Old May 8, 2009 | 07:42 PM
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sure why not, as for traction, thats what 4 wheel drive is for !
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Old May 8, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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Sure!

Fab up some traction bars...

And find a good deal on 4 drag slicks.

Don't forget about a roll cage either, you are probably gonna need it.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 08:20 PM
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Your going to tear apart that very nice lookin white truck?? Heck, while your at it drop that heavy fuel tank and get a 10 gallon fuel cell. Lets see 34 gallons of diesel = approx. 272 lbs vs a 10 gallons at approx. 80 lbs.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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Yeah, traction bars are coming, I just gotta find some designs. I was gong to buy some, but I can't take spending 900 bucks for some 50 dollar parts and 50 bucks worth of metal. I doubt I'll need a cage just yet. I was thinking about the fuel cell, also, however, if you look at my speedo race vid, you'll see I had the truck at less than 1/8th of a tank. The only thing about a fuel cell is... I have to drive a long way to the track. Maybe when I move, there will be one closer.
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Old May 9, 2009 | 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by madhat
Yeah, traction bars are coming, I just gotta find some designs. I was gong to buy some, but I can't take spending 900 bucks for some 50 dollar parts and 50 bucks worth of metal. I doubt I'll need a cage just yet. I was thinking about the fuel cell, also, however, if you look at my speedo race vid, you'll see I had the truck at less than 1/8th of a tank. The only thing about a fuel cell is... I have to drive a long way to the track. Maybe when I move, there will be one closer.
-----------------------------------------------------
Mark:

I would like to highly recommend the "Cal-Trac Traction Bars" to you for your truck. That is what I am running on my 96'. I posted a thread awhile back about them here and will find that for you and put it up here. Some of the Members here will argue about it, but IMHO, for the money, the "Cal-Tracs" work very, very well and are also priced right too. As I recall, I paid about $349.00 for mine.

Here is the link to their website Mark, so you can read about how they work.

www.calvertracing.com

Stand by for that thread/write-up I did on them.

--------
John_P
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Old May 9, 2009 | 06:40 AM
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Mark:

Hey buddy, here is the link to that thread and write-up I did on my "Cal-Tracs":

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=143899

Let me know if you have any questions.

------
John
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Old May 9, 2009 | 06:51 AM
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If you plan on running 10.99 or quicker...

You are going to need a roll cage.

Depending on where you are racing of course...
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Old May 9, 2009 | 07:14 AM
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consider L&L traction bars as well...... although I wish they mounted to the bottom of the spring pack bolts, they are an option and a LOT cheaper.

http://www.landlproducts.com/list.aspx?cID=5

.
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Old May 9, 2009 | 06:58 PM
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Softer shocks in the rear. Change out your front shocks to Drag rate shocks. get that front for weight transfer. Sway bar on the front? unhook it...You might have to get ride of some spring leaves on the rear....
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Old May 11, 2009 | 04:37 AM
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From: Jonesborough, TN
Originally Posted by John_P
-----------------------------------------------------
Mark:

I would like to highly recommend the "Cal-Trac Traction Bars" to you for your truck. That is what I am running on my 96'. I posted a thread awhile back about them here and will find that for you and put it up here. Some of the Members here will argue about it, but IMHO, for the money, the "Cal-Tracs" work very, very well and are also priced right too. As I recall, I paid about $349.00 for mine.

Here is the link to their website Mark, so you can read about how they work.

www.calvertracing.com

Stand by for that thread/write-up I did on them.

--------
John_P
John, those look pretty good. If you use them, I know they are good. I remember you adjusting them at the track, it was done in a snap!

Originally Posted by megacabdad
If you plan on running 10.99 or quicker...

You are going to need a roll cage.

Depending on where you are racing of course...
Nah, I don't want to be faster than John P!

Really, though, I don't see that anytime in the near future (next 5 years). What do you think I have done to this thing? I'm in the mid 12's now, that's a lot of difference!

Originally Posted by mikmaze
consider L&L traction bars as well...... although I wish they mounted to the bottom of the spring pack bolts, they are an option and a LOT cheaper.

http://www.landlproducts.com/list.aspx?cID=5

.
I looked at them... definitely something to keep in my pocket.

Originally Posted by Riflemanusmc
Softer shocks in the rear. Change out your front shocks to Drag rate shocks. get that front for weight transfer. Sway bar on the front? unhook it...You might have to get ride of some spring leaves on the rear....
Whoa! I don't have people following me to the crapper to see if any gold fell out...


This is more of a budget thing. I don't want to dump a bunch of $$ in the truck until I get some bills paid down, so I'm trying to go faster cheep.

Great ideas, tho.

MGuns, I need to learn more about suspension... I know that it can affect a lot, but I don't know a whole bunch. I'm still small time.
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