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Another sled pulling, how its done?

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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 02:39 AM
  #16  
PourinDiesel's Avatar
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From: Southern, Indiana
Sounds pretty slick Teddy Bear...
Post us a video when you get a chance!
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 03:03 AM
  #17  
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From: san antonio tx
sorry to hijack but is the front of the sled always touching the ground? As the weight slides foward it pulls down the back of your truck allowing the front of the sled to hit the ground? If so why not build a superstiff rear suspension to help with this problem
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 05:58 AM
  #18  
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From: Southern, Indiana
Originally Posted by chadwick
sorry to hijack but is the front of the sled always touching the ground? As the weight slides foward it pulls down the back of your truck allowing the front of the sled to hit the ground? If so why not build a superstiff rear suspension to help with this problem
We already run blocked suspension to keep our rears in the air!
The trick is to keep the hitch as close the rear axle as possible. Also a high hitch height and fast track speed to keep the sled from working your truck over.
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 12:08 PM
  #19  
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From: Pattonville, Texas
I know there's a maximum hitch height, but is there a front to rear distance spec'd for it's location in relation to the rear axle?
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 02:24 PM
  #20  
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From: VA beach
I know that the class I'm gonna run is max 26" and has to be "reese type" hitch but I'm building ahitch like Pourn' uses . I'm trying to see if I can run airbags in the rear to stiffen it up to no more than 2" s of travel . that combine with ladder bars will get the power to the ground with little if any hop. power won't be an issue ,with smarty tst and a little bit of pressure ,(maybe a new turbo if the price is right) .It's the tranny Ineed to get off the fence with and get it done . My first pull will have video wether I only get 150' or blowup seems to be alot more to it than making monsterous amounts of power

chris
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 03:13 PM
  #21  
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From: Southern, Indiana
Chris,
The airbags will only work so much and not as well as suspension blocks.

You can easily have blocks made that bolt up where your factory axle stops are.
Some say use 1" of travel others like the rear fully blocked (like myself).
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 03:44 PM
  #22  
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From: VA beach
blocks would be alot cheaper, I like the idea of a solid rear anyway you post a pic of the way you blocked yours. steel or aluminum ?
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 03:48 PM
  #23  
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Give me a couple days and I'll get you a battery of pictures of the blocks and where they mount.
Really easy to make or fab up for someone that can weld or a weld shop.
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Old Mar 27, 2007 | 04:08 PM
  #24  
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From: VA beach
No problem, weldings not an issue. that haisley machine site is full of good info.
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Old Mar 28, 2007 | 10:05 PM
  #25  
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From: St Joseph, Mo/ Manhattan, KS
satburn, thanks for the tips...lol...you forgot a ginormous fart pipe though...and some cheap neon lights, and the best of the best will have racing seats or a light up shifter...lol lol
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 03:01 PM
  #26  
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From: VA beach
cheap neon lights and alight up shifter has to be worth aleast another 50-75 hp.
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