I have had many requests for information regarding U joint shields that I have installed on my truck. They are DHRA legal and should be legal for other organizations (NADM) that require shields for their 2.8 type classes (obviously check your rules).

Any questions about these let me know. I know they're not the best in the world or eye candy but they work.

U joint shields: front and rear.

 

Here are some pictures of my suspension blocks I use for pulling. The pictures represent one of each kind that I use. One is a shorter (7" tall) version that allows about 1" of suspension travel...
The taller block is about 8" tall and requires the truck be jacked up at the frame to be installed. The taller block actually raises the rear of the truck up a bit for better pulling geometry.

The holes that are used to mount these are the existing rubber axle bump stop holes. I just used some longer bolts of the same thread and cut them to my liking.

If anyone needs some measurements look closely I used a ruler.

 

Looks good.. What dia pipe did you use for the shields... and is there a second bracket on the rear shield?? Looks like there is a bar or angle running along the fuel tank?? ( could be stock.. haven't looked under a 3rd gen in a while..)
Bryan

 

good work buddy!! I like those blocks a lot better than mine but I could not use those b/c of my ladder bar mounts. Their holding up though but I like yours

 

Thats awsome justin I was wondering does the block just slam down on the axle tube when the weight hits it though?

Im just curious it seems that might be disasterous. Obviously been used alot though I was just thinking about designing mine a little different though.

 

It wont slam down on it as it will pull the rearend down at a good pace but not fast enough to slam. I have about the same setup as I use a 1 inch bolt threaded into a piece of steal so I can raise it up drive on the street.

 

Don't worry so much Sledpulling is hard on everything!

The block engages the axle as soon as you take off with the sled.
You are not going to hurt that axle tube as it is thick DOM wall tubing.

 

Video's 1,3,5 in my signature are with my taller blocks.
2&4 are with the shorter blocks and 6 is with Timbren springs.

 

I'll get some measurements up tomorrow. No second bracket on the rear shield however one was planned just never got around to it.

 

those look good Justin

 

I've been thinking about doing a set of blocks on my truck, but wasn't sure if they were allowed in the street class. Anyone know if they are or not? I've been sled pulling with no blocks, no airbags, no weights, no letting air out of the tires or anything. I just drive down after work, hook up & run. I don't even have a pulling hitch, I just take my ball out of my hitch & pop in a twisted clevis. Sometimes I wonder what if?

 

Hey justin I dig the customized sticker inside the u-joint cover. I guess theres no need in polishin that baby up, but then again we ARE takin it to the fair.

 

You need blocks. Blocks will help keep the sleds weight up off of the ground somewhat and increase your pull distance a substantial amount.
Most street classes allow blocked suspension or a 1" travel rule.
Reduce your front tire pressure down to 20psi since you are not hanging weight.
The tires might look low but when the sleds weight picks up the back of your truck it will even out.

 

Thanks for noticing. I am into custom and flashy stuff!

 

Thanks. You did a great job on those blocks, they look awesome. I never did a set of blocks because like I said, I have sled pulled & hooked to skidsteer trailers on the way home. My truck is mostly a daily driver/tow rig. I was trying to figure out a way to make a set of blocks that just pop on/pop off. A guy over on Comp D suggested that I use 2x4 tubing & it will just slide on over the factory bump stop. I am going to check that idea out, but I need to get something done before the season. My shortest pull last year [other than Fayette fair with bald tires] was 280'. How much of a difference will these blocks usually make?