howdy - this place looks like an awesome resource! after my 6.5l gmc became more trouble than it was worth, i sold it & am now seeking a dodge cummins under $4000. i've driven a couple '96 2500s and a '98 12 valve (all automatic trans), and am going to look at a '92 d250 extended-cab in a few days. can anyone tell me the main things i should be looking for on the '92? similarities/differences i'll notice between that and the '96/'98 models?

the truck is under $1800, but it does have 450,000 miles on it...so i want to thoroughly check it over. it's the 2-wheel drive model (wanted 4x4 for montana winters, but i was told even the 2wd rams are pretty decent on rough terrain). any tips on smart buying strategies with such a high-mileage truck?

thanks for the help!

 

Some one lied too you about 2wd's being good off road mine gets stuck on damp grass and I have posi Ken

 

Look at the front end. these old trucks have tendency to wear out the suspension specially in the 2 wheel drive trucks... A-arms there is a few pictures of them in here some were
......oh and yes they suck on wet grass let alone rough terrain.....

 

Look at the front end parts, look at the bottom of the tires for this - / \ If the tires are like that then the cummins has done its job on the front end.

LOOK for rust over the windshield, in the gutter, look very good, rust rust rust is a major problem on these trucks.

Drive it and see if it tracks straight, pound the brakes, feel the trans out in and out of overdrive (if auto), listen for rear noises.

does the truck have an auto trans or 5 speed? pop the hood and look at the white ID tag on the underside of the hood, see what gears it has, if it has limited slip. 3.54's will get you about 20 MPG+ in that truck, 4.10's are kinda low but are workable.

450,000 is alot on the drivetrain, nothing on the engine.

Brake line rust, fuel line rust, ANY leaks,

theres lots to look for. Look at everything and note stuff that looks/feels abnormal.

The 92 will have a NON lockup overdrive auto, unlike the 2nd gens you drove have auto trans with lockup(you'll find out that sucks when you add alot of mods).
The seat in the 92 will most likely be less comfortable, the heat in the 92 will work faster then the 96/98 trucks. The 92 will most likely be a little more slow and doggy than the 96/98's but that can be addressed in 20 minutes of pump tuning, (thats whats nice about a first gen) It costs more money to make 94-98's make power.a first gen requires pump tuning and 70% of the mods you do to your truck to make it more driveable (power) will be free unless you want over say 250HP to wheels, over that will mean injectors, torque converter, turbo upgrade. etc etc.

Go look at it, drive it, compare to the other trucks you drove and you'll probabl like the idea of the cheap easily moddable truck better than the other trucks you drove that aren't as cool as a classic 1st gen.

If you push back button and look at the top of the 1st gen board you'll see this thread- https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t102027.html This thread will be your friend, scroll through it, it basicly covers everything.

Remember, Look for rust. Mechanical work is usually easier than body work and finding body parts for these ole girls.

Hope this helps, have fun
Brandon

 

when checking for rust, make sure you look at the cab mounts, for some reason they go fast on some trucks. Mine is a 93, and is geting rust in the usuall places, but the cab mounts are solid. My cousun, got a 91, that had a good looking body, but the cab mounts were gone, sad thing is he didn't catch the problem, till after he had bought the truck.

 

I would not recommend a 2wd for snow. Mine is next to useless once the white stuff starts falling.

 

Not only check the cab mounts but also look where the rocker meets the floor board right underneath. I almost croaked a couple of days ago when i crawled under my rust free 92 and saw the rust creaping along the rocker floor board seam. I'm sick, then got to checking and pulling plugs underneath the rockers and look thru the holes and my rockers are beginning to rust from the inside out--sick sick sick. Well bodywork is again in my near future. Good luck with your decision on the ole trucks.

 

One point missed... Its a Cali truck.....No salt, no rust......

 

thank you so much everyone! such useful info - i'll take these pointers with me tomorrow or saturday when i test drive the truck. i'm excited!

 

Riflemanusmc my truck was a southern cali truck and read my post above. Not to say in it's 17 years of service that it didn't make a few trips up thru the rust belts of the U.S.A.. I was sick when I saw the rust in the places very hard to get to. Anyways gust good luck on your truck and have fun with it.

 

dang...

that thing needs a transmission (won't go into 4th gear), and it's pretty much in bad shape all around. love that cummins though, even with over 400,000 miles on there

i really wish i had the cash when i first got here and looked at a '98 12 valve 4x4 with recently rebuilt trans & EVERYTHING in good condition for under $4000. haven't seen anything like it since.

i was wondering, do most of those recommendations for areas of scrutiny given here apply to the 2nd gen trucks too? anything you folks might know of that i'd do well to keep my eye on if a '94- surfaces, beyond what's already been described? i'm hoping a sweet 1st gen will come by, because i really liked what i saw at the heart of that '92 today. too bad it didn't happen for me.

thanks

 

Wait its a 5 speed that won't go into 4th or a auto that won't go into 4th/O/d ???

 

automatic - trans guy drove it & said don't buy. seller talked about some bolt or plate that can be removed to make it go into overdrive, but that it is "dangerous to tow if you do that..."

now we wait for something else to pop up in the classifieds.

 

Yea, the 2WD do suck in the mud/snow. They will get stuck on a banana peel. The extra weight of the Cummins up front does not help.

Better mileage and power/weight ratio than the 4WD.

 

Dude if the Overdrive aint' workin thats not a good reason to not buy it.

Search "overdrive not working" in the 1st gen forum and you'll see at least 30 threads on it, it usually turns out to be something simple like a switch, sensor or the TPS, you could skip the TPS and hook up a POTENTIOMETER (info in sticky) so you can control what speed you want the O/d to come in.

Your tranny guy said "dont buy it" ? If it shifts through 1-3 normal then it can't be in the trans, its electrical.