What is wrong with my driving light wiring?
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From: Fort St. John B.C. Canada
I was also thinking if it would be an idea if you could swap your drl to low beam. How hard would that be?
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
The trick there is to use the high beam indicator wire for your signal to the relay/switch for the lights after the DRL module. Thats what I was thinking was burning out your relay Swampy..
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From: grande prarrie
I'm not to sure how the 3rd gens drl work but on a 2nd gen the daytime running light modual pulse widths the high beams for daytime running lights. When i hooked up a relay to the high beam wire, the relay would buz and i had the extra lights come on really dim. To fix it i got a box of resistors from radio shack and started small and worked my way up bigger till the relay stoped buzzing. Worked for a few years.
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From: Edmonton Alberta
This is my new plan of attack. Using this relay in the picture. I am thinking it is a 60 amp relay. Going to use a 30 amp fuse in the new fuse holder. Now for wiring 101 for dummy's I am going to ask a simple question if this will work.
Big post on far left = fused power from battery.
Small post on left = Ground
Small post on right = signal from highbeam/switch
Big post on right = power to Lightforce lights.
How do I not have power to my relay when I accidentally leave my switch on for the lights and have my daytime running lights on? That gives out about 3-4 volts and can sometimes make a relay switch stick or have issues. Besides the obvious, turn off the in cab switch when not in use!
Big post on far left = fused power from battery.
Small post on left = Ground
Small post on right = signal from highbeam/switch
Big post on right = power to Lightforce lights.
How do I not have power to my relay when I accidentally leave my switch on for the lights and have my daytime running lights on? That gives out about 3-4 volts and can sometimes make a relay switch stick or have issues. Besides the obvious, turn off the in cab switch when not in use!
QUOTE
"Big post on far left = fused power from battery."
if you use a 30 amp fuse in this spot it negates the need for a 60amp relay.
better choice ould be 1 30amp relay for each light
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From: Fort St. John B.C. Canada
I went on Cole Heresee website and this part # is rated for 85A continous duty. 
Might be overkill! As long as it works, because I find it annoying when my driving lights stick on because of the crumby relay that came with the kit was not up to the task. And melted fuses also were getting old. Now to see if I am ambitious enough to do something about the DRL signal.......
Might be overkill! As long as it works, because I find it annoying when my driving lights stick on because of the crumby relay that came with the kit was not up to the task. And melted fuses also were getting old. Now to see if I am ambitious enough to do something about the DRL signal.......
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,102
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
John,
That relay is for intermittant use. I think the amp draw to trigger will be too high as nickg stated. I had one of those for aux power on my 93 and it would get hot. I would do the dual 30 amp relays if you need it, but unless you run huge Wattage, one should be good enough. I have fired dual 100W drivers off of one of those relays for years.
The trigger is what burned out the old relay IMHO..
That relay is for intermittant use. I think the amp draw to trigger will be too high as nickg stated. I had one of those for aux power on my 93 and it would get hot. I would do the dual 30 amp relays if you need it, but unless you run huge Wattage, one should be good enough. I have fired dual 100W drivers off of one of those relays for years.
The trigger is what burned out the old relay IMHO..
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