I have had this problem on both of my trucks, when running my driving lights for some reason the relay sticks on and either burns up my relay or this last time melted my fuse..... Just tonight the lights stuck on, I shut off my headlights and the driving lights stayed on. I just pulled the very warm fuse. What gives? Is it a bad ground? To much power drawing through the relay? Ask me questions and I will try to answer.

Thanks.

 

how many watts are the lights? sounds like your drawing too much amperage through your relay/switch.

 

I agree. Too much current for the circuit to handle the way it was designed.

 

Use a minimum 30 amp continuous duty relay for driving lights.

These will normally handle anything you want to run. If in doubt, get a more heavy duty relay with bigger contacts.

I know that running lightforce, KC 150 watt, and the basic aircraft landing lights, a normal cube style bosch relay works fine.

 

I am running Lightforce lights.... 10 inch. Not sure about the watts of lightbulbs. But there is a 15 amp fuse. So I need a 30 amp relay and 30 amp fuse... Wonder if the wiring is heavy enough? I just put in my lightforce lights with a Jetco light wiring kit.......

 

10" LIGHTFORCE LIGHTS? wowsers....Must be like staring into the sun.

 

nah, the 10" lightforce are pretty wimpy.

Get the 10" lightforce HID series... that is like looking into a welding arc.

Knew a guy running 4 of them, two on each side of the hood on a pete 379.

Following him at night was like driving along behind the sun. It was great. Meeting him... that was another story entirely, but he was really good about having them off in plenty of time.

 

I usually wire mine up with all 14 gauge wire, 30A relays, and 20A fuses.

 

Another thought is, you could also have a pinched or rubbing wire somewhere, that is making intermittent contact.

 

You need to find out the wattage, and use it to determine the maximum amperage, or measure the draw with an ammeter with the lights hooked directly to a power source. 14 gauge wire is good for maximum 15 amps, 12 gauge wire is good for maximum 20 amps, 10 gauge is good for maximum 30 amps. When I design a circuit, I will load the wire to no more than 80% of its maximum capability. Also, if the lights would demand over 18 amps together, I would consider wiring each one separately with its own relay, then use a single switch to control both relays together.

 

I used the Lightforce harness and it only has a standard 30A relay in it.

What are you using as your signal/ground?

 

Run a set of wires for each light 14 OR 12 guage. I usually use that 2 wire trailer wire, the stuff tha has that huge rubber insulating around the wire. I use the hella 30 amp relays. The relay has two 87 terminals each one is rated for 15 amps, so use one 87 terminal for each light. 30 amp fuse can be used.

 

This is my new plan of attack. Using this relay in the picture. I am thinking it is a 60 amp relay. Going to use a 30 amp fuse in the new fuse holder. Now for wiring 101 for dummy's I am going to ask a simple question if this will work.

Big post on far left = fused power from battery.
Small post on left = Ground
Small post on right = signal from highbeam/switch
Big post on right = power to Lightforce lights.

How do I not have power to my relay when I accidentally leave my switch on for the lights and have my daytime running lights on? That gives out about 3-4 volts and can sometimes make a relay switch stick or have issues. Besides the obvious, turn off the in cab switch when not in use!

 

Signal is off the white/grey wire on the passenger side high beam that goes through my switch then to the relay. Ground is just to the fender where a bunch of other things are grounded from the battery.....

 

I had the same issue with my DRL's and relay set up. I just unplugged my DRL module and jumpered the pins for the high beam indicator. I was thinking of using a 12V diode to block the low voltage coming from the DRL module.I just couldn't be bothered to play with it.