turbos
Does gross over temp cause the turbine wheel to start to crack off pieces like that? From high temp, I usually see curled turbine blade tips and contact to the nozzle ring. The turbine wheel shouldn't be that brittle.
But looking closely at the blades, there is some evidence of torching on the point where the nozzle ring is directed right at the wheel.
But looking closely at the blades, there is some evidence of torching on the point where the nozzle ring is directed right at the wheel.
These new turbo use very thin turbine disks. They seem not to take abuse as well as the earlier designed turbochargers. They probably work well in lots of gaser applications.
I bet that the BW stuff is a cartridge bearing system as well. Basically a throw around turbocharger. Those garrett R turbos, are no rebuildable, and you have to buy a new cartridge, which is more than a new turbo.
I bet that the BW stuff is a cartridge bearing system as well. Basically a throw around turbocharger. Those garrett R turbos, are no rebuildable, and you have to buy a new cartridge, which is more than a new turbo.
Does gross over temp cause the turbine wheel to start to crack off pieces like that? From high temp, I usually see curled turbine blade tips and contact to the nozzle ring. The turbine wheel shouldn't be that brittle.
But looking closely at the blades, there is some evidence of torching on the point where the nozzle ring is directed right at the wheel.
But looking closely at the blades, there is some evidence of torching on the point where the nozzle ring is directed right at the wheel.
If I can't get the wheel replaced, I'll step up to the GTX line, and probably take a wrench and zip cut to this one. Everyone loves a cut away model.
A couple of the guys at CompD think its when my injectors hung open and the late fuel caused the excess heat. I don't know exactly how long I drove with them stuck open, so no way to tell for sure. But Brett agreed with heat damage, and FOD doesn't seem likely, since I haven't done any real work to the cylinders or intake/exhaust since I put the head on over a year ago. And I ran the bullet and the twins since then.
If I can't get the wheel replaced, I'll step up to the GTX line, and probably take a wrench and zip cut to this one. Everyone loves a cut away model.
If I can't get the wheel replaced, I'll step up to the GTX line, and probably take a wrench and zip cut to this one. Everyone loves a cut away model.
Checked my GT37 today for any damage, turbine looks good. It doesn't spin as well as it used to, but its full of cold oil too.
Mike, my Stg 2 is a 61.5mm inducer, not the 60's like you were talking about.
Mike, my Stg 2 is a 61.5mm inducer, not the 60's like you were talking about.
I think that garrett changed the compressor inducer in the later versions. I think I owned one as well, but have owned two of the newer verisons.
My garett GT3782R has nearly 80000km's on it and still spins as good as the day I put it on. I've been using it for two years now, off and on. The only thing that I can think that has saved that turbo is my water/methanol system sure cools off egt's. On kill running a the GT37, I can pull 1200-1300 deg's, with the water/methanol, I'm typically around 1100 deg's. Also full synthenic engine oil seems to helps prevent the coking of the bearings.
Tuff luck buddy.
The ball bearing turbos don't take the mega egt's as well as the borg warner stuff.
My garett GT3782R has nearly 80000km's on it and still spins as good as the day I put it on. I've been using it for two years now, off and on. The only thing that I can think that has saved that turbo is my water/methanol system sure cools off egt's. On kill running a the GT37, I can pull 1200-1300 deg's, with the water/methanol, I'm typically around 1100 deg's. Also full synthenic engine oil seems to helps prevent the coking of the bearings.
Tuff luck buddy.
The ball bearing turbos don't take the mega egt's as well as the borg warner stuff.



Thats hard to take. They all wear out over time..
One is really big...