Synthetic oil filter
And the reason the 10 stays visually clean is from your deletes. Without deletes the oil is midnight black pretty much as soon as you change it.
Visual looks. I like the oil to look clean. I'm sure its still good oil even at 10000km's. Really how much different is synthic oil between brands. Yes everyone has the special stuff inside, but like I said, how many failures occur from a result of bad oil.
I torn down one engine last year, the oil looked like mud. It didn't even look like oil anymore and had a fram oil filter on it.
The bearings looked good and same for the crank. One piston was melted, but other than that it was in good shape. One of the injector got hung open.
Most of those oil tests, its pretty rare to see any degradation in the oil, until you really push the service interval. For $50 of oil and a $10 oil filter, is it worth it.
I torn down one engine last year, the oil looked like mud. It didn't even look like oil anymore and had a fram oil filter on it.
The bearings looked good and same for the crank. One piston was melted, but other than that it was in good shape. One of the injector got hung open.
Most of those oil tests, its pretty rare to see any degradation in the oil, until you really push the service interval. For $50 of oil and a $10 oil filter, is it worth it.
While the motors generally last much longer than the trucks anyways, yes its worth it. Cleaner oil is much better.
Oil color is from soot, which is not horrible on a deleted '10. But I bet if you do a UOA on your oil it will be much dirtier with a cheap filter than a good one.
There is also a big difference in synthetic oils. Most of your synthetic oils are Group 3, which is not a true synthetic, its just enough synthetic to be labled as synthetic. Then there are Group 4, which are the true synthetic oils.
Same thing with filters, big differnece in the synthetic media in a Amsoil and a Fleetguard filter.
Same thing for fuel filtration, fuel looks clean in the tank, so why filter it?
Oil color is from soot, which is not horrible on a deleted '10. But I bet if you do a UOA on your oil it will be much dirtier with a cheap filter than a good one.
There is also a big difference in synthetic oils. Most of your synthetic oils are Group 3, which is not a true synthetic, its just enough synthetic to be labled as synthetic. Then there are Group 4, which are the true synthetic oils.
Same thing with filters, big differnece in the synthetic media in a Amsoil and a Fleetguard filter.
Same thing for fuel filtration, fuel looks clean in the tank, so why filter it?
Still bet that internally you would see no different. Give me another 100000km's on my 02 truck, I'll prove it. I'll post the tear down for everyone to see. Been wanting to put in another engine into my truck anyways. At 400000km's, I bet my 02 engine will be still in decent shape. My truck was serviced regularly at 7500km intervals and used 5W40 synthic oil for most of it.
Fuel is dirty, even if it looks clean. I monitor my dP pressure accross my filters. I can tell when I pick-up a bad tank of fuel. I run a fass 3 micron and a stock fleet guard filter. The stock filter still gets dirty but I have extended the service intervals to 25k.
Engine oil can take/survive more larger particles than your injection pump/injectors.
Fuel is dirty, even if it looks clean. I monitor my dP pressure accross my filters. I can tell when I pick-up a bad tank of fuel. I run a fass 3 micron and a stock fleet guard filter. The stock filter still gets dirty but I have extended the service intervals to 25k.
Engine oil can take/survive more larger particles than your injection pump/injectors.
You guys need to read the write up in the last TDR magazine where the oil filters (about 20) were disassembled for internal inspection of the components and then described their media and dirt holding techniques.
Full flow oil filters are typically only good down to 20 micron range and filter best between the 20-40 micron size. Soot is in the 1 micron size so unless you have a bypass filter system down to that size, the oil will get "sooty" even if the filter is "clean". More to point the wear particles that do damage to your engine are in the 5-15 micron range. So spending on the oil filter should be for better internal construction and total dirt holding capacity.
Full flow oil filters are typically only good down to 20 micron range and filter best between the 20-40 micron size. Soot is in the 1 micron size so unless you have a bypass filter system down to that size, the oil will get "sooty" even if the filter is "clean". More to point the wear particles that do damage to your engine are in the 5-15 micron range. So spending on the oil filter should be for better internal construction and total dirt holding capacity.
Running Amsoil filter/oil in both my rigs,bypass on the 07 too, plus a Filtermag(magnet on the oil filter and one on the bypass as well)OVER KILL yes but i had them laying around+they were a good deal on e-bay so what the heck,usually drop the oil twice a year and change both filters regardless.Filtermag RA365 has 600LBS of pull and and bites/draws blood when installed without the gloves on

,usually have to spill a little oil down the filter to slide the thing off cause there is no way to break it away by pulling on it.DW


,usually have to spill a little oil down the filter to slide the thing off cause there is no way to break it away by pulling on it.DW
Maybe I should install a bypass filter system also???Sounds like it would be a good idea...What does everyone think??...Just not sure where to get one.
Anyone a Amsoil dealer in Calgary?? for the oil filter..
Anyone a Amsoil dealer in Calgary?? for the oil filter..
I've'd read on a thread that Debra from the other AB forum is an Amsoil dealer, however if she's not, there's an Amsiol store near the Flying J on Barlow......
Your loosely veiled insults are a bore. Please stop talking to me. forever. I don't know how many different ways I can say it.
Dr. Evil has a card from Amsoil I believe.
The filter mag is cool and does pull ferrous materials out of the oil but leaves the other stuff behind that wears out the engine like silicon, sodium etc etc..
My take on bypass... Only on industrial engines that need a service life of 40-50,000 hours. Typical engines in automotive only run in the 10-20,000 hour window before the vehicle is either in need of vast repair or something else on the engine fails. My 89 CTD had an hour meter and I used it to commute. After 380,000 km it had 9800 hours on it, then I sold it to a rodeo kid. I could have run bypass on it but how much life would it have gained?
If you run bypass filtration, plus synthetic oil, you should be married to oil analysis and would only change the oil when the TBN levels get out of control or you see the additive packages starting to deplete. Probable drains would be in the 25-30,000 km mark if that, and only partial drains required. The main full flow filter would need changing at that interval as well, but the bypass filter would need more servicing ($).
The plus of good bypass filtration is the safety factor.. If you spring an internal leak of some sort, it will catch the glycol and not let it eat your engine.
The filter mag is cool and does pull ferrous materials out of the oil but leaves the other stuff behind that wears out the engine like silicon, sodium etc etc..
My take on bypass... Only on industrial engines that need a service life of 40-50,000 hours. Typical engines in automotive only run in the 10-20,000 hour window before the vehicle is either in need of vast repair or something else on the engine fails. My 89 CTD had an hour meter and I used it to commute. After 380,000 km it had 9800 hours on it, then I sold it to a rodeo kid. I could have run bypass on it but how much life would it have gained?
If you run bypass filtration, plus synthetic oil, you should be married to oil analysis and would only change the oil when the TBN levels get out of control or you see the additive packages starting to deplete. Probable drains would be in the 25-30,000 km mark if that, and only partial drains required. The main full flow filter would need changing at that interval as well, but the bypass filter would need more servicing ($).
The plus of good bypass filtration is the safety factor.. If you spring an internal leak of some sort, it will catch the glycol and not let it eat your engine.
Dave order online, it does ship from Edmonton and rates are reasonable. You get a discount with your sign up fee. You can also arrange to pickup at the warehouse on the Westside in Edmonton if you are going up or have someone who can mule for you.
The Amsoil filter is as good as the Donaldson and cheaper, have been running them for years.
If you PM me I can put you on to a local guy who will usually deliver, but I dont think you get the discount that way. Good for emergency shortages.
I usually carry a fair amount of stuff in my garage but it is 03 specific. (Need to place an order soon though to restock).
BTW - I have a few gallons of turkey fryer oil for ya if you are interested. Just havnt been able to get out your way to drop it off.
The Amsoil filter is as good as the Donaldson and cheaper, have been running them for years.
If you PM me I can put you on to a local guy who will usually deliver, but I dont think you get the discount that way. Good for emergency shortages.
I usually carry a fair amount of stuff in my garage but it is 03 specific. (Need to place an order soon though to restock).
BTW - I have a few gallons of turkey fryer oil for ya if you are interested. Just havnt been able to get out your way to drop it off.
I may have reached the wrong conclusion and would also be happy to hear others experience.



