Need an engine for a 2003 3500 or a rebuilder in Calgary
#16
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Your edge wont work on there either. Totally differnt animal, if you need I have some 03 stuff hanging around in my garage that would work good on there. I might even pull off my edge and sell it too, it is the hot version,
Kevin
Kevin
#17
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Clay, is the motor still in the truck? You can rebuild the existing engine, if its still there. Sounds like a smoken good price for a nice rig. How come these good deals don't find me?
#18
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Nope I wasn't planning on pulling the Edge off my '01, just like it so much I would buy a new one for the new truck. I would definetly be interested in buying your edge or anything else you might want to part with. Just one question, why are you pulling off your edge?
#19
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Don't feel too bad about missing out on it. I check about 6 online used forums atleast once a day so I'm pretty quick when I see a good deal.
#20
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Kevin
#21
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I wouldn't be so quick to buy an engine or pull the seized engine without more investigation.
Can you see if the oil pan has any dents or holes in it?
If the engine really did have a catastrophic failure, which is extremely rare in a Cummins, any bottom end shrapnel would have ended up in the pan. Perhaps jacking up the engine and pulling the pan would be a good 1st move.
If the engine can't be turned over by the starter or with a barring tool some external things could be causing this.
A seized CP3 or related gear train, valvetrain, starter jammed & seized, etc...
Perhaps even something that is belt driven if the shop was not that thorough, etc..
How many miles on it again?
I'm still hoping it's something minor & you end up smiling...!!
..Joe
Can you see if the oil pan has any dents or holes in it?
If the engine really did have a catastrophic failure, which is extremely rare in a Cummins, any bottom end shrapnel would have ended up in the pan. Perhaps jacking up the engine and pulling the pan would be a good 1st move.
If the engine can't be turned over by the starter or with a barring tool some external things could be causing this.
A seized CP3 or related gear train, valvetrain, starter jammed & seized, etc...
Perhaps even something that is belt driven if the shop was not that thorough, etc..
How many miles on it again?
I'm still hoping it's something minor & you end up smiling...!!
..Joe
#22
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Personally I think it dropped an exhaust valve seat! Common failure and if it did, you might only be into it for a head an possibly a piston.. Crossing my fingers for you!
#23
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When you have the old engine out, you should tear into it anyways. It would be good to know what happened. You pulling off the head when you pull the motor. The 5.9L engine is too heavy complete for my engine hoist. Nice project. You'll have a nice driver when everything is done. If you need a hand, I can find sometime to help out.
Mine's never done. I just found out that my new lower control arms wont keep the springs in when the truck on a vehicle hoist. I have to install a chain/cable to restrict the maximum suspension travel. More moding is required
Mine's never done. I just found out that my new lower control arms wont keep the springs in when the truck on a vehicle hoist. I have to install a chain/cable to restrict the maximum suspension travel. More moding is required
#24
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Thanks for the kind thoughts, I'm pretty sure the bottom and has damage though. If it was a dropped valve or seat I should be able to rotate the engine 360* before it stops again, I don't even get 120*. Starter isn't siezed, works good, I can rotate the engine backwards and then crank it over forward with the starter till is goes bump! A siezed injection pump or accessory shouldn't let me rotate the engine at all.
It will be a daily driver and spend lots if time towing so the edge works well for me. This truck stock will have close to the same hp as my 2001 which I'm pretty happy with so I don't think I'll need too much more HP.
It will be a daily driver and spend lots if time towing so the edge works well for me. This truck stock will have close to the same hp as my 2001 which I'm pretty happy with so I don't think I'll need too much more HP.
#25
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If that 6 spd will bolt up to my 01, I would trade you my Built auto for it. I don't see any trouble with a swap like this....does anyone else?
Great deal on the truck by the way!
Great deal on the truck by the way!
#26
Chapter President
120° is the firing order, however 1-6, 2-5 and 3-4 are running mates so you may have a couple bad holes. Without anything sticking out of the block, I am sticking with my hopeful theory..LOL..
#27
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You could take off the valve cover and see if anything looks odd. Either way the head has too come off. Its tight near the fire wall. You might have to take out the rad and intercooler. If your carefull you might not have too. Sounds like fun time. I'm still try to figure out how to get my ball joints out of my dana 60. There stuck little mothers.
#28
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Smoke wrench and a swinging press Mike-been there, done that. IIRC the lowers were a real *****....time heals all wounds.
Not sure about the DR trucks-the BR service manual says you have to pull the valve cover and the #5 and 6 rocker assemblies to make clearance to remove the engine. I did mine without that-it is super-tight but doable. But the whole front of the truck definitely has to come off-bumper, rad, intercooler. You can move the AC condenser out of the way with some careful work. And of course, the tranny and transfer case have to come out first. There's lots of things in life that are funner-except maybe ball joints.
Jason
Not sure about the DR trucks-the BR service manual says you have to pull the valve cover and the #5 and 6 rocker assemblies to make clearance to remove the engine. I did mine without that-it is super-tight but doable. But the whole front of the truck definitely has to come off-bumper, rad, intercooler. You can move the AC condenser out of the way with some careful work. And of course, the tranny and transfer case have to come out first. There's lots of things in life that are funner-except maybe ball joints.
Jason
#30
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You need to make enough room to get the engine in-with the tranny installed there is no way to get it over the X-member above the axle. It's a ***** enough to get it in there with the tranny out. This is on a BR-body truck-dunno for sure about the DR but I bet they didn't give out any extra room!
Actually, just had a look in the '03 DR service manual-they say not only do you have to pull the tranny, you have to take the flywheel adapter off! So obviously they didn't budget for extra space in the redesign. Also says you have to pull the back 3 rocker assemblies and the rocker box off and install a special lift eye in some head bolts. Not sure how much of this is absolutely required-but I'm positive the tranny will have to move back.
Still not that big a deal-the crossmember is the biggest pain....again at least on a BR. Never been fortunate enough to do a DR.
HTH
Jason
Actually, just had a look in the '03 DR service manual-they say not only do you have to pull the tranny, you have to take the flywheel adapter off! So obviously they didn't budget for extra space in the redesign. Also says you have to pull the back 3 rocker assemblies and the rocker box off and install a special lift eye in some head bolts. Not sure how much of this is absolutely required-but I'm positive the tranny will have to move back.
Still not that big a deal-the crossmember is the biggest pain....again at least on a BR. Never been fortunate enough to do a DR.
HTH
Jason