Its ALIVE!
Good job buddy on the 01. What you doing with the 03? You find a motor yet. Sometimes you can't beat out all of the gremins. I'm getting closer myself. I just found out that my neighbor 05 dodge cummins need injectors, and the dealership wanted $7k to repair. He just bought a motor from dodge less than three months ago. He paid $13k for a brand new motor and it doesn't cover injector warranty. I told him to go to Cummins the first time or buy an used motor. You have to check to make sure the parts you think are included are actually included.
Not sure yet what to do with the '03. Found a complete '03 motor(injectors, turbo, manifolds, wiring harness). The guy refuses to quote a price though, wants me to make an offer. I need a week or so break from wrenching for sanity and to get other things done.
I'm also considering sending it in to the dealer to confirm its the bottom end and not an injector.
If its not an injector I'll probably pull my motor apart, price out the pieces, and then make an offer on the used motor. Whichever is cheaper taking into consideration the labour involved in rebuilding mine is probably the route I'll go.
If I was you I would see what cummins says. They are pretty good, but pricey. If any place in town thats fixed me up the best it was cummins. I'm still on the fence about the dealership. You're dealer might be better than mine but be careful. Watch some of the spike channel power block, you good to go again on pulling wrenchs. It always charges my batteries. I hate the thought of someone else pulling wrenchs on my ride.
I'm with Mike-pretty much every dealer I've been to is substandard when it comes to diagnostics-there are exceptions but most of the techs are trained in "plug and play". You should try to bribe somebody with a factory scan tool with beer to do an injector kill test for you to eliminate the injector possibility..... 
Jason

Jason
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 519
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From: Alberta Foothills - Power to grow with 6 in a row - XLR8
nan, my neighbor had already spent the $7k on injectors at the dealership for stockers, by the time I heard about it. I told him to send the injectors to GCL for testing, he didn't know what an injector looks like. I think that he lost a few of the electronic stuff that triggers the injectors. A quick pop-off test on the injector, would determine if they where ok or not. Its only money, I'm just glad it's not my money. I work to hard to throw it away on dumb stuff. I got an ok deal on my front end, I'm just lazy. I could have done the entire job by myself, but why...
actually have a friend with an '07 5.9 that he bought new. and had a similar sound. it was slighty quieter than that, but with the valve cover on and the hood closed. but had it too a couple dealers in calgary and canmore couldn't figure it out. no performance issuse no mileage issues. but took it into the Cranbrook dealer (has property out there for the summer) and one tech said there was something aboutthe harmonics of the engine with the CP3 pump. anyways long story short. they rotated the pump 180* or something to that effect. and the sound went away.
How does it sound under the truck? You still have decent oil pressure? Does the sound go away at faster rpm's or stay increasing in speed. All of the rockers looked like they where moving, and its a more high pitched sound tick for excesive valve lash. You could try to disconnecting injectors one at a time until the noise goes away. At least you'll know which cylinder that causing the noise. Is the exhaust manifold tight on the head?
From what I could gather from the video, the knock seems to be around 350cpm which would be 1/2 of 700 rpm idle speed. So to me it would be firing knock. Are all the injector hold downs tight? If you could disable one at a time that would narrow it down. Man, I would like to be able to get out my ultrasonic stuff and poke around on there for a bit to help out..
(Stuck here in Lloyd for a couple days).
JHansen has a DTC tool for the Dodges and could do the injector kill etc testing.
(Stuck here in Lloyd for a couple days). JHansen has a DTC tool for the Dodges and could do the injector kill etc testing.
Clay, sorry to hear about the #6 cylinder knock.
Have you considered a compression test before pulling the engine out?
Also, it may be possible to replace the #6 piston without pulling the engine.
Not sure if the piston & rod will clear the cowl as it comes out though.
I can't really tell much from your video, it kinda sounds normal to me.
In one of your posts, you mentioned that the truck may have an an aftermarket program in it.
I have a 3rd Gen Smarty programmer that we could use to reflash your truck back to stock if you want to try it.
..Joe
Have you considered a compression test before pulling the engine out?
Also, it may be possible to replace the #6 piston without pulling the engine.
Not sure if the piston & rod will clear the cowl as it comes out though.
I can't really tell much from your video, it kinda sounds normal to me.
In one of your posts, you mentioned that the truck may have an an aftermarket program in it.
I have a 3rd Gen Smarty programmer that we could use to reflash your truck back to stock if you want to try it.
..Joe
Hey that would be great, save me some money at the dealer. I'll give you a shout once its up and running.
I had considered pulling the #6 piston and inspecting it but I forgot about the cowl clearance... dang!
I think I'm going to try swapping injectors again, this time with #1. I don't think an injector cut out test will tell much as I think if the injector is bad its stuck open and flowing fuel all the time. I can simulate the same by removing the wires, which I'll probably try before pulling the injector.
I had considered pulling the #6 piston and inspecting it but I forgot about the cowl clearance... dang!
I think I'm going to try swapping injectors again, this time with #1. I don't think an injector cut out test will tell much as I think if the injector is bad its stuck open and flowing fuel all the time. I can simulate the same by removing the wires, which I'll probably try before pulling the injector.
If the injector is stuck open, I'm not sure you'd get the truck started as I'm not sure you'd make enough rail pressure to actually let the injectors fire. You can cap the rail off 1 injector at a time to isolate a bad one too-might be easier than swapping them around?
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