Check the lash between the rockers and the top of the valve. I use 10 thou on intake and 20 on the exhaust. You still have decent oil pressure at idle? When you change the oil, use a filter screen to see if you have any metal. If you don't have any metal just buy a loader stereo. It works for me. I'm with Luke, all the lifters I've seen on the 5.9L are solid lifters. If you have lots of valve to rocker lash, it will make the engine more clangy and noisy.

 

Yup solid lifters, which is why they have to be adjusted periodically.

 

Yep I figured they were solid. I did set them as per the manual when I installed the head, they were all on the tight side with only 2 needed to be backed off. Spec is pretty huge 6-15 thou on intake, 15-30 on exhaust.

I'm hoping that its just an injector. I'll be taking home my stethespoce and heat gun tonight and check things out a bit more. I did put the original rod back into the #1 cylinder and didn't touch the other cylinders. That's why I was so surprised it was one of the rear cylinders.

153624 how are they shipping your tranny parts? When I ordered mine they said delivery in a week, 4 weeks later in arrieved, 4 days prior to my trip to Moab. THAT was a busy week! Apparently it was back ordered and then the shipping company lost it in transit. Hopefully you have better luck!

 

i Got them to send by greyhound. I've always had good luck with greydog sending stuff around western canada. I got my tracking numbers today so they on the way at least.

 

Well I swapped some injectors around and redid the valve set, no good. There is a constant knock on the the number #6 cylinder. So it looks like its comiing out.

I called Cummins and they don't sell short blocks just individual parts so either I tear it down and rebuild it myself or but a used motor.

Basically I'm back where I started.

Anyone want to buy a CH 24V head? REALLY low miles.....

 

bummer......failure on #1 hurt #6....running mate. not out of line I guess. just never crossed my mind. but i would have had all the rods checked at a machine shop personally though. I hate doing things more than once.

Is the knock at crank speed or Camshaft speed though?

 

It is a general rule on these that what ever you do to one cylinder you need to do it to the companion cylinder as well. Especially if a sleeve is used ,which i know you didn't. Sorry about your luck.

 

I know hindsight is 20-20, but for the money you have into the unit, an engine refresh would be the best bet. If you had it out anyway, like 153 said, refresh the entire unit. You never know what kind of residual damage may have resulted from the sudden seizure of the engine. A new bearing kit, rings, and seals and you would have a new engine for a fraction of the cost of a new one and know what you have. If this isn't your primary truck, I would pull it down over a couple weeks and have the block checked for cracks, fresh mains, rods. Inspect the pins, cam bearings and then refresh the bores, new rings. With the new head, you have basically a zero hour engine. Glycol in the oil will eat off the Babbitt on most fine tolerances bearing surfaces such as the cam bearings and rods.

 

I've been down that road before and a complete rebuild is usually VERY expensive compared to a low mile used unit. I'm going to investigate both and then weigh the options.

I'm guessing that the engine overheated when the valves dropped and then it was shut down hot. Something got warped in #6 but since it was never run again till I put the new head/piston on it, it was quite at first and then the damage happened in #6 causing the knock.

I already called Cummins and they don't sell just a short block(or long block even), its either individual parts(block, rods, pistons....) or a complete drop in unit.

Even better news, my '01 started leaking AF from the front of the head, just under the t-stat housing, definatly looks like its coming from the head gasket and there appears to be oil in the rad. I'm going to get VERY good at pulling heads. Is this a common place for the headgasket to leak? I don't suppose retorquing the head wouild fix it......

 

I was thinking if you had the shop and tools, doing it yourself shouldn't be too bad of a cost just for parts, no? Just a bearing kit, and seals shouldn't be to bad considering you already did the head, which usually is the expensive part.

 

I have a 24x24 garage that is fairly well equipped but the truck hangs out in the alley when working on it so I cann't close the door at night, also hard to get truck in when its not running.

What I'm worried about is scoring on the cylinder wall requiring a sleeve or over bore, machining is expensive, or a new block. Also damage to crank requiring machining or replacing. If a head is $2000 I'm guessing a crank to be that much and a block 2X that.

For the knock I have there HAS to be either scoring on the block or damage to the crank. Plus if #6 got hot enough to warp then I'm not sure I could truck the rest of the block/pistons.....

I guess it all depends on how much I can get a used engine vs rebuild kit, block, crank, blah blah blah.....

 

I hear you on the garage. Thats an issue.

With the way you describe, its something not as serious. I am guessing something up with the rings/rod end on those back holes. But if you aren't blowing out the oil or swallowing coolant, its not gonna be a big ticket item IMHO.. Popping in the intake, knock in the back end of the engine it could be a bad cam lobe, bent push rod or something of that nature.

Many industrial engines lunch a cylinder and more often than not its pretty contained as to the damage. Turbo might be a casualty but a new cylinder, some cleaning and a quick inspection of the lower end should be good to go.

 

Thats what I thought with the #1 cylinder

 

Any thoughts on the AF leak in my '01?

 

Head gasket Clay-that's where mine started leaking when it let go.....IMHO if it's leaking a retorque won't save it.

Bummer on the '03 as well.....