Cam
Lifters
Retainer For Cam
Bolt For Cam retainer
ARP head Studs
Exhaust Manifold
vacuum repair kit
0-100 psi isspro boost gauge.
Intercooler boot and clamp kit.
6 more HD valve springs.
4k GSK Small Springs.
6 exhaust manifold gaskets.
Holmenator twins.
And did I mention I am going to o-ring my block at home?

Have I lost my mind?

In case you were wondering it is for the 98 12v.

 

Sounds like you are going to try and take my title away from me,,, LOL I know what you are saying though John,, I have way too much stuff to get done in way too little time. I allmost got the head off,,, LOL

Kevin

 

Easy stuff buddy, it sounds worse than it looks. Just take out the intercooler and rad. The head and cam is easy stuff. I bet in one weekend, you could be back running order. You just have to get the head done prior to ripping everything apart. The tuning part is the time consuming part, as you usually break something.
You find a spare head? Once thats done, its a slam dunk. I have one available and if it works, I might have a few more to get done. You gonna have to figure out where you gonna put the o-rings in yet? You could use an old head gasket to determine the proper position. Its just a bunch of parts and few extra bolts...I put mine back to stock in one weekend, and on top of that I did have enough spare time to kick my kids butt on the Xbox a few times. I even drank a dozen beer as well. I'm liking the new stock look. Kinda retro looking.

 

I am going to pull the motor I am sure. Needs a good cleaning and re-sealing of parts. Should make everything I am going to do way easier on an engine stand. I will check the head Mike, and if there are no cracks and it is straight I will do a little home porting and bolt it back on. That is with my o-ringed block of course!
And Kevin, you are safe. No way my truck is going to be anywhere near the 10's or 1000+ hp! Although I am really considering some nitrous!

 

You gonna fire ring the block buddy? You might have to take the entire engine apart to cut the rings. I priced out pistons from cummins, all I can say its very very pricey. The mains and rods bearings aren't much cheaper. You gonna adjust the rod and piston weights? Ross Racing pistons makes custom pistons for our engines. I have read that you can reduce the rod weight by 10%, which is nice if you want to rev her up some. Just don't let the balancing shop put metal back into the crank. I wanted to reduce the some of the weight on the crank but I wanted to see if you could rev this little engine up to 5-6K, on my daily drive to/from work. John, why can't you break the 1000rwhp on fuel and have the CP boys chasing you... I can only dream about HP these days, as I'm stock guy now.

 

Well,, I am working on becoming a nitrous express dealer,, so if that happens I will hook you up

 

I plan on using the isky tool mentioned in this thread.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=233758
My buddy went ahead and bought it. Seems he might be more excited about my little build up than I am. Once I pull the engine he will help me with the rest. Like I said, he worked at Jims engines in Prince George for years who is a high performance engine builder. Anyways..... he is also a Cat Master mechanic and has owned built many high performance vehicles. So I am leaving the o-ringing up to him! LOL Went for a ride on his 4 stroke turbo apex with nitrous and water meth with a little nitro methane. It is stroked and bored out to 1200 or so cc's. I never even hit the nitrous when I took it for a rip on the lake. I never imagined I would ever have to hang on so tight to a snowmobile in fear of flying off the back. Maybe I should have eased into the throttle. As for future mods with pistons etc, I am going to keep a stock bottom end for now. Baby steps for me! 1000 rwhp sounds expensive.......

 

You gonna tear the 12v completely apart to deck, fire ring and blah blah. I would run her as is. Just slam on those twins. Push the rack forward all the way. Run a set of laser's. Run her as is. Put in a set of ARP 625's and crank them tight. She'll hold up until the next winter. Then rip her apart. It would be nice to break those twin in on a 12v.

It would be nice to see someone with a 12v run twins sooner than later...

 

Hmmm...

 

John, as per Smokem's instructions, cut the grooves to a 120mm diameter, .029" deep, .039" wide, use .041" wire.

 

Rumor is that you can/might be able to put twins on a 12v, but its a rumor. Might break the mighty 12v in half, but you can always put in a 24v.

Anybody ever run twins on a 12v??? Kinda like the moon landings

 

There were twins before the 24V showed up.. Believe it or not..

 

I've heard that rumor to but the 12v is pretty fragile engine and can't handle the abuse that twins can dish-out. I have to stir-up you 12v guys some, maybe someone will have to try out a set. I heard there is one guy that has a set just collecting dust in a garage. Has all of the pieces, very shiny pieces, just collecting dust. Of course, this is out of the rumor mill and is probably a false story anyways. You know how rumors start.

Of course my truck is stock, and all I can do these days is dream about big HP that you guys have but there is hope, I can still probably beat on a local hipo 12v five speed truck in my wimpy stock 24v form, on the strip or at the dyno. Don't you guys enjoy bench racing....

 

Holy it must be a small world, I too have heard of this 12 valve guy that has a set of twins, not on the truck but in his garage. Maybe one day, just maybe he will try them out on his little old 12 valve just to see what its like??

 

My twins are in my basement. I hope this is not a trend........