Swamp_Donkey

I am contemplating doing a little block o-ringing at home. Would you use this? Seems real straight forward. What do the performance shops use for block o-ringing?

Check this out



Seems way cheaper to just buy the tool than to send out my head for o-ringing when you factor in shipping etc. Also do you get a better seal from an o-ringed block as compared to an o-ringed head.

Crazydave

I think it depends on the shop, i know some smaller ones use a hand cutter. Fire rings = both head and block cut. O rings = head cut. Fire rings hold higher psi.

Aosipower

Not exactly, at least in my experience.

Fire rings = full metal ring with matching cut headgasket. Can be cut into head, block or both.

O-rings = Typically a cut head with wire put in the groove, wire pushes into headgasket, but gasket is not cut.

Think thats right, correct me if I'm wrong...
Alex

gwhammy

I've seen that cutter used on alot of pulling tractors over the years around hear. I think it does a decent job if use right.

wcbcruzer

Unless you have a lot of experience, I don't see how you can be precise enough with that tool.

XLR8R

Even if you have a lot a experience, you can't be too precise with a hand tool - milling machine type cutters are more accurate... that Isky cutter is probably fine for the soft copper wire in the kit.

Iron Pony

The Isky cutter is ONLY for the block. It centers in the bore. So if Ya want to cut heads it will not work. But using it to cut the block as it was intended it works great. The Isky cutter was used for over 20 years to cut O-rings in EVERY top fuel and funny car engine out there. And if they will hold up to a top fueler I don't think a diesel will stress it to bad. JMHO

John_P

The Members here are giving you some good advice. With that being said I wanted to tell you that my 1996 Dodge CTD 12 valve has firerings cut into the block which was done by my engine builder (Scheid Diesel). However, when they were done, the block was out of the truck and they were cut by a mill in a machine shop. It looks like DTR Member Iron Pony has had some experience with that tool you listed, so maybe you will be alright.

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John_P

Swamp_Donkey

It seems like such a simple tool, and I have a friend who used to work at a engine shop that only did race motors and he does not think it will be a problem at all. It seems like if you take your time it would be pretty hard to mess up. I might give it a whirl. Whats the worst that can happen? Wreck a good block because I am to cheap to send my head down for o-ringing? Is it really better to o-ring the block than the head for a good propper seal?

Iron Pony

It would be impossible to get a hand held machine to match the built in precision of a milling machine. But how perfect does it have to be. The whole reason behind O ringing is to provide a sealing area that can't shift, And then blow out. Like a gasket can. The O ring is captured in the groove that ya cut with the machine, Holding it in place. Unlike a gasket that floats around. The same thing applys to a fire ring. I do agree with XLR8R In that the O ring supplied in the kit is probably too soft. But harder grades are easy to find. The Isky cutter lets you set the depth and it is centered in the bore. So the groove will be round and to the right depth. And as I said in a earlier post they was used very successfully in top fuel cars that often see over 170 psi of boost. With no cooling systems at all. And no aftercoolers, But then the only run under load for about 5 seconds or so. With that said I will also say that I have never seen one fail in a top fuel engine. Even with a pulled sleeve. The Isky was used a lot in the 70's and 80's for turboed gas engines too. What took it out of favor was the CNC milling machine. But 10's of thousands of engines were done with it. And it really doesn't take a lot of skill to use. Set the depth. Adjust the bore guide to fit. Then push down while turning untill it stops cutting and you are done. And if it is good enough for 100,000.00 top fuel engines then it will work for a 10,000.00 dollar diesel. JMHO

XLR8R

Granted - they are better than nothing... although I doubt there's room do cut #6 properly in-frame.

The head has to come off anyway (and it's a lot easier to carry to the milling machine) & the cost of the Isky kit will buy most folks a proper O-ring job. Still, it'd be nice to have one in the shop...

Whoever dies with the most tools wins!

Ronco95

This is the one. Used it successfully for years.

RTillery

I like this one, costs a little more though:

http://www.rottlermfg.com/machine_in...products_id=59

renopker

I built a tool just about like that for doing 440 blocks in or modified tractor (3super charge 440s)centered in the bore and work great.When I would do heads on the mill I would use a gasket to locate the fire ring area on the head and its way more time consuming.The tool I built expanded in the bore and I would do the oring before boring if need be.To bad we don't have one to loan out to members cause it would save a lot money.The reason I like doing the block is if you mess up a head some how its not a problem One other thing mine used a rachett to turn it so I know it would do #6 in frame.I allways used .032 or .040 ss safty wire

Swamp_Donkey

That seals the deal. I am going to give it a whirl. Enough people with good things to say about it that I think I can do it. Nice and slow....... measure 12 times cut 6 o rings!