Well I fixed the leak between the turbo and the manifold, I extended the pipe from the turbo where the hose keeps blowing off,, still blew off, but I think that if I get 1 size smaller t clamps it will stay on.... but now I have a new problem,,, darn thing wont stay running,,, and now it wont start,, I got frustrated and quit working on it tonight,, so I will look at it again tomorrow,, but I am quickly running out of time... I think I might have a fuel leak under the hood too

 

I found if you wrap sandpaper around the tube and twist it will cut nice groves/scratches and will keep hoses that dont have a lip from blowing off.
BTW smart move walking away when things are going wrong, fresh start tomorrow will make all the difference,
Good LUCK
Nick

 

Kev, break out your welder and run a small bead at the end of the turbo pipe. I knew I should have done that when we made it. That will help give your boot some bite, and keep the clamp from sliding over.

Hope you get that beast running and kinks ironed out.

 

for sure boost tubes and CAC pipes have to have a bead or it'll never stay no matter what you do. but you can help it with good old cheap hairspray. make sure the pipe is clean no oil, and coat it in hairsprray just before you put the boot on. maybe let it tack up a minute or 2 then it glues down pretty good.

 

Another way to keep it on is something like this

Now it doesn't need to be that fancy, and if my paint skills don't make you laugh nothing will :



Ok to clarify the picture the two sort of tube looking things are well charge pipe, the sort of tube looking thing with stripes is a silicone coupler. I didn't have too much luck trying to draw clamps so I left them out but you still need them.

So onto the important part, those two little tabs with holes drilled in them, you can connect them with flat bar, or coat hanger, or I have even done it with zip ties.

Back before I could weld aluminum I had a charge pipe that would blow no matter what I tried, until: I took a hand full of zip ties I put one around the compressor inlet just behind the base of the air filter, hooked another one through that and daisy chained a couple more till I got to the tab I had put on the charge pipe, cinched them tight enough that even at full stretch there was still lots of coupler on the pipe, and presto no more blown off charge pipe. Was really ghetto but it worked.

Regardless my feeling is that you should worry about why the truck isn't running, as things like charge pipes are easy to deal with even at the track.

 

Very spendy but I have seen this style of clamp on the big tractors
Wiggins Clamps http://www.burnsstainless.com/Hardwa...insclamps.html

I cant find The ones that you would need but, I know I have found them , I am trying to get in touch with one of my buddies he had same problem

 

I prefer this style for motorsports http://hargettprecision.com/index.php?cpath=50 a little less spendy, and easier to work with.

Kinda off topic though, I hope that Kevin can get this thing running!

 

I am going to get 1 size smaller t clamps,, I think that is my problem,, I went 2 sizes bigger than what we had, but I cant get them to clamp down hard enough, I also added a peice onto the pipe that comes from the turbo before the first 45 tate, helped but I think that the new t clamp of the right size will fix it good.

On the other note,, do you think that bad fuel could cause this???

 

what type of metal is it if you have to last minute we can weld a bead around it tommorow or friday here. hopefully you can get it running good.

 

bad fuel could cause not running for sure, also, if you were down and apart for quite some time, you might have some air trapped in the fuel lines, fass, cp3, etc. especially if you have a fuel leak, i would start there.

if you don't find anything, and you have some old fuel in the tank, pull the line off the cp3, turn the key on and let your fass pump into a bucket for a bit, purge everything out, then put it back on and giver a go.

oh, and hopefully your smaller clamps hold, but when you have time, laying a bead or adding o bracket to hold things together would be cheap insurance at high boost levels, it would suck to be in the finals and blow a hose off when you hit od.

 

Heres an update,, I went home on my lunch break, unplugged the rail pressure guage, and then tried starting it. After a bunch of cranking it did start, breifly and then died again immediately... I am starting to lean towards a problem with the fass. Going to check that out as soon as I get home

 

hopefully you get it going, i saw your truck a couple years ago at dragwars break the output shaft, then the nitrous incedent and trans probs at the blackout a couple years ago, must be frustrating trying to get a couple good clean passes in...

 

Kev, you have fuel pressure at the CP3 pumps? That will tell you if the fass is working or not. At least thats what I do. From there you can hear if the fass is working. You still have a good connection/power to the ecu? My fass system is fussy, it want at least 12 volts of power prior to moving fuel. I have a bad filter earlier this year that hurt fuel flow, but that might have been some icing/gel-up as it was -30deg's at the time. Check the wiring? I bump stuff lose all the time.

 

What did you find out Kevin??

 

It is definatelyh the fass. No fuel to speak of at the cp3's. Finished everything else up, got it on the trailer, work on it more in Edmonton. Not sure if there is a problem with the fass or if it is just fubar'd