ABDTR #5 Alberta Chapter #5 Discussion

HELP - what did i wreck???

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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:40 PM
  #31  
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ED is good stuff. I am still of the thought though a 62 is just too small. If I am going to spend that kind of money I want something that I can grow into. A 62 will run out way too soon IMHO I would go with a real tight housing on a 64.
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Old May 13, 2010 | 07:50 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by morkable
ED is good stuff. I am still of the thought though a 62 is just too small. If I am going to spend that kind of money I want something that I can grow into. A 62 will run out way too soon IMHO I would go with a real tight housing on a 64.

If you recall Kevin, you've mentioned to me that a 62mm turbo would be too small with my Common rail with a manual trans
but would a 62mm turbo be ok for a VP44 truck with an auto trans &, as Jason has mentioned, a tight torque convertor??
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Old May 13, 2010 | 08:22 PM
  #33  
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yeah, if it were stock, but he has upgraded injectors, and planning on going with more.. also that is why I said to go with a tight 64, breath like a 64 but spool closer to a 62
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Old May 13, 2010 | 09:36 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Mike Holmen

Isn't a SuperB is a S364, the stage3 garrett will out perform a superB, both in cfm and spool-up. If the superB the S362, then the stage2 garrett will out perform that series. Just two different companies, abit different way of spec out turbos.
False. BW turbos outflow Garrett's for the same size inducer. Guys are doing over 700hp on 64mm BW's.

Kev, you gotta remember that the CR's will spool a turbo much better than the 12v/24v trucks will. CR's also make more power on a smaller turbo than a 12v/24v, generally. Also a tight housing on a bigger turbo will cause surging. Kenny is going through this right now with his GT4094R.

I thought the turbos from ED were going to be cheaper than that, maybe I heard wrong. But like you said, they will tailor it to your truck. Jamie did 570 on a 62/71, so your 62 will work for quite a while on your truck. Like I said, you might even decide to just run the single.
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Old May 13, 2010 | 10:27 PM
  #35  
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haha, i was also expecting them to be a tad cheaper than that. i think i am going to stick with ED's recommendation. chris asked me A LOT of questions about my truck - more than anyone else - and came up with those specs. he said they go further and even machine/tweak the parts on a truck-by-truck basis when they build turbo's.

and yes - depending on how much i like this - i might stick to just a single - or at least for longer time anyway. a cam will happen before twins too . . .
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Old May 13, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #36  
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Now the question is, do you still need a stock turbo right now? I got home tonight. I'm heading to my sisters tomorrow to grab Fred my PS/vac pump, I can grab that spare turbo as well.
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Old May 13, 2010 | 10:57 PM
  #37  
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i think i'll leave it as is until the new one comes in. we have enough vehicles at the house to get by for the time being. i'll only drive it if i have too, and i have the SMARTY set to 'half power' to limit fuel/boost levels. thanx so much for the offer though . . .
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Old May 13, 2010 | 11:07 PM
  #38  
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With a new upgraded turbo and a newly built trans, your truck will humming very nicely Jason!


I must say that we are very fortunate to have some really knowledgeable & experienced diesel guys in our Alberta chapter. As this thread shows...
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Old May 13, 2010 | 11:18 PM
  #39  
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yeah i think the turbo will really wake it up, especially now that the pump is tapped too.

we are very fortunate to have guys as knowledgeable as we do. even more so that they are more than willing to help however they can. without these resources i'd be paying an arm and a leg for my toys/services from places like NADP
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Old May 14, 2010 | 02:59 PM
  #40  
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So Tate, your saying that no one is making any power using a garrett? umm ok

As for surging at mid power, GT4088-4094 are know for that, do a search on the tuner/ricer forums. Thats why lots of guys are unloading them.

As for determining the difference between two turbo companies designs, look at the compressor maps between garrett and a borgwarner turbos. You'll see the difference between the two manufacturer's, its all about how you rate you turbos. Its all about how you take your measurements and how, that determines performance. Secondly try to find a decent accuracte compressor map for anybodies elses turbo besides garrett. That speaks the real story, I have access to the maps and how they rate the turbos. Borgwarner rates there turbo way further into the choke region than garrett, which equals more heat, less boost more drive pressure. As for turbine design, take a good look, you'll see the little extra twists and finer design on the garrett. The finish/machining and overall manufacturering is better on a garrett. Not saying that a S300's is a junk, just better designed that holset.
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Old May 15, 2010 | 01:28 AM
  #41  
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Never said Garretts don't make power. Just said for equal inducer size, the BW is capable of more. A guy on Comp-D did over 700hp on a 64/71. Any 64mm Garrett's making that? The GTX line is catching up to the BW compressors, but the standard GT isn't there yet.
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Old May 15, 2010 | 08:57 AM
  #42  
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I was going to discuss wastegate design between the two turbo, which works better in twins, but I think we should just test a bunch of turbos. I could rig up instruments and run bunch of turbo designs. We could run both a bunch of S300's and a garretts. Between the all of us, there are lots of turbos available to try out holset, borgwarner and garrett (did I miss anyone). We use Jason truck and find out whats the best turbo, been trying hard get interest into do this, to find the best turbo. After we figure that out, we move to a CR truck. I'm interested, anybody else. I will record digitally the pyro in/out temps, turbo compressor discharge pressures, drive pressure, throttle position, fuel ratio at the exhaust tip and turbo speed. Do a bunch of street miles empty, towing a heavy trailer and then try some drag racing. Could be fun? We all might learn a thing a two about turbos. I don't think it would take long to run thru two or four turbos in a day. Its just exhaust gaskets and a bit of time... Race City will let us run a bunch of times on Friday, we might even get good at the staging lights with practise.

Then try the difference with a camshaft grinds and the effects of advance of timing. Maybe advance to nitro and water/methanol mixing and lastly twins. By that time Jason will be tired of trying stuff. I think we will need a new truck to play with.

A buddy down the road here is putting a hopped up 12v CTD engine into a t-bucket ford and street driving it. Two turbo'ed/supercharged, other combustables and big injection pump, talk about wild and crazy.
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Old May 16, 2010 | 11:07 PM
  #43  
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haha, volunteering my truck are we mike? would be fun, but don't think i could find that kinda' time to dedicate to it . . .

i am gonna try and order a 62/68/14 from Chris at ED tomorrow. with the new DP - will this turbo simply slide in place of the stocker? or are any other parts/pieces needed or fab work need doing? anyone know if the new turbo will fit with an aFe stage II CAI/box?

also, when are studs and new IC boots necessary?
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Old May 16, 2010 | 11:19 PM
  #44  
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Turbo is a drop in affair. I had clearance issues on the coolant line when I first put my 62mm on, talking to Doug at PDW (when he still owned it), that was the first time he had heard of that. Simple fix though. It has stock turbo dimensions for the most part. Easy way of installed for me is to take the exhaust housing off the turbo, and install that first. Then slide the CHRA/compressor into that. You usually have to loosen off those bolts to clock the CHRA, so removing it completely only takes another minute. Sliding the whole works in into a 4x4 is a bit awkward because of the shock tower. Smaller pieces is easier to manuever in.

I'm running 45+psi on my 12v with the stock boots and bolts. I blew a boot off when I took Kenny for a run in it a week and some ago, that was the first time I have ever blown a boot. Nothing was damaged, I think the clamp as a little loose. Upgrade when you want to, don't feel you have to do it just yet though.
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Old May 16, 2010 | 11:56 PM
  #45  
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good to hear it will drop right in. thanx for the tips too.

also good to hear studs and boots are not yet required. i was thinking of setting the gate at 40psi to stay on the safe side with the stock head bolts. maybe i'll give them a re-torque too.
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