Fs-2500
Not sure on that one... Bypass filtration is a funny business as you (usually) get what you pay for. You have to be sure that the filtration levels are down to and effective point to actually do any good.
Typically the spin on filter for the engine is good for the rocks and gophers and does about 15 micron nominal. That means that most of the particles around 15 micron and up are filtered out not all. (If its 15 micron absolute, then its filters over 95% of particles over 15 micron.) So if you are spec'ing out a secondary filter, be sure to get the ratings to say nominal or absolute. You would want bypass filtering to be down to the 2-5 micron level to be of value as that is the wear metal content that is known to cause damage to the engine. This is also the particle size picked up in oil analysis spectropy (Sp).
Bypass filtration is good if you are really concerned about oil contamination or poor operating conditions. But typically the engine outlives the truck even with standard filtration if there is no incidents such as ruptured head gaskets or inlet filter passing dirt.
More details please...
Typically the spin on filter for the engine is good for the rocks and gophers and does about 15 micron nominal. That means that most of the particles around 15 micron and up are filtered out not all. (If its 15 micron absolute, then its filters over 95% of particles over 15 micron.) So if you are spec'ing out a secondary filter, be sure to get the ratings to say nominal or absolute. You would want bypass filtering to be down to the 2-5 micron level to be of value as that is the wear metal content that is known to cause damage to the engine. This is also the particle size picked up in oil analysis spectropy (Sp).
Bypass filtration is good if you are really concerned about oil contamination or poor operating conditions. But typically the engine outlives the truck even with standard filtration if there is no incidents such as ruptured head gaskets or inlet filter passing dirt.
More details please...
I spent awhile looking into the by-pass stuff and came to the conclusion that's it's just easier to change the oil more often than to deal with extra oil lines, filters and such.
These trucks have enough "common" problems, I don't want to have to worry about blowing an oil line as I'm buzzing down the highway.
Oil's cheap.
Jeff
These trucks have enough "common" problems, I don't want to have to worry about blowing an oil line as I'm buzzing down the highway.
Oil's cheap.
Jeff
I am using a Frantz by pass. I like it. It filters down to .05 microns and uses toilet paper for the medium. .80 cents for a filter. Here is a link to all the by pass info one could think of.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...oard=34&page=1
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...oard=34&page=1
We have 4 trucks that are using the FS-2500 filtration system, works awesome. You are extending your oil changes to well over 10,000km and we did a bunch of oil analysis when we first installed them and the oil was still pure after 8000 km. I say if you want to save money on oil changes it is a worth while product to pick up. It will pay for itself within 2 years depending on how many km's you put on in a year. www.fs-2500.com
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1 year , 18k miles one oil change, one fleetguard stratapore filter change. and 1 quart of make up oil. according to OA was no problem to continue running and take sample in 5k miles. I thought a year was long enough.
OA spec silicon at 4ppm, TBN was 8.2.
Oilguard bypass (racor) with extreme blue 5W40.
OA spec silicon at 4ppm, TBN was 8.2.
Oilguard bypass (racor) with extreme blue 5W40.
I researched this for a while before I bought one. One guy on Bob's the oil guy never changed the sump in over 20 years. That is a little to far for me. Another one put on 17,000 miles/ one year and the oil was still testing good. So I am going the one year route. I have seen the Frants go on Ebay for as low as 35 dollars. But I don't think one wants one of the old ones. I paid $109 for a new one.
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