Doj Dewd

Why are you dropping the SMARTY for RaceME?
I thought they were one in the same...

Mike Holmen

Smarty name changed because of the EPA crack down.

The H&S has transmission tuning which is a big deal for anyone with a 68RFE. The mini has a display showing information and shift on the fly power adjustments. Mini also has defuels and other special features. Currently the H&S tunes are better than the smarty tunes. Support is also better with the H&S. Smarty is cheaper but the XRT pro isn't that much more money.

The dodge stock exhaust system isn't that bad. the muffler is a hallow 4in tube with some baffles for sound deaden. The down pipe cat doesn't hinder to much of the performance, but uncorking the DPF/2nd cat does improve performance by 15-30HP depending on DPF condition.

magiriano

Just wanna see if there's any difference between the two. I would've gotten the RaceMe instead of Smarty if they only accepted PayPal and not be hell bent on CC payment ONLY. Pretty obtuse vendor if you ask me, I'll take payment in goats if it will make my client happy but they dont take PayPal. And they're on the other side of the world.
Call me stupid but I don't trust with money or my CC info someone I can't pay a visit to. But they seem to be genuine so I'm going to get a prepaid CC to pay for it.
Eventually I'll end up with the MiniMaxx but what fun would it be if I don't take the hard route? It's my first delete so it's like a teenager discovering sex.
Let's see what else it's there.....

Busboy

Save yourself a pile of money and get the mini max NOW, as Mike has said not only does it give you gauges but you can also set defuel limits, why is that important??? well you have a G56 with a stock clutch and stock head bolts, first you will burn out the clutch then after you install the Southbend 3250 double disc clutch with upgraded hydraulics you will either blow up the G56 or blow the head gasket, the head gasket is cheaper if you can get the G56 to hold together. Don't waste your money.. just saying

Tate

So much hate for the G56 around here.

StealthDiesel

Congrats on the new trucks guys!

I'm glad Kevin is back in a Dodge Cummins rather than a Duramax or Powerstroke!


As for deleting/programming and tossing the warranty... I'm not sure what I would do if I bought a new truck.
lol, I wonder how long I could last with stock power and all the emissions stuff and terrible fuel economy.

As for which tuner to go with, be thankful that there are so many choices.


I thought that H & S and Smarty would still sell emissions free programmers and send delete files to us in Canada.
The RaceMe "Smarty" is interesting, I wonder how long before the US EPA shuts that down too..

bigd450

It didn't take long to realize the tranny shifting isn't the best. They need to take a look at the Tundra that's the nicest 6spd auto I have driven.

I see H&S now has two options for software one for international and one for USA. I assume that we could still get the delete software?

Also anybody know about the dealer ship reflashing the ECM and being able to lock it? That a myth or can H&S or Smarty still be downloaded if they are in fact able to lock it?

magiriano

Are you free one of these evenings , I'd like to show off the 5" SS aFe(sounds like a jet plane) and pick your brain about retorquing my stock studs vs getting new ones.... Also Mike asked me to say hello.

Mike Holmen

The delete is now called high sulfur tune. I've deleted a 2012 truck with no lockout using a H&S mini. I just tell me dealer no reflashing is required and I don't want any of the emission recalls fixes. As far as I know the 2013 dodge is the only ecu still locked out. I had a guy asked me to delete a 2013 king raunchy the other day. H&S told me that they will have a high sulfur tune out in 30 days for the dodge 2013

I've always had warranty with my truck and never had a issue because of the truck being deleted, but then again my worst issue for my 2010 has been a leaky rear pinion seal and a ripped driver seat, other than that the truck has worked awesome.

Mike Holmen

Head gaskets blow on bone stock 6.7 trucks, many because of full dpf's and excessive soot levels. Some head gasket failures are a result of factory installation issues. Even seen a few dealer repair issues on a few trucks.

If you not beating on the truck to badly, the clutch will hold-up. Of course haulin a heavy trailer daily isn't easy on the stock clutch. The dual disk south bend is one awesome piece.

I was told that 4th gens have a slightly different G56, than what was used earlier. Different gear ratio's and better syncro's for easier shifting.

StealthDiesel

I must be getting old because my slow shifting NV5600 with the noisy original style Southbend 3250 dual disk clutch drives me nuts at times.

The thought of a swapping in a 6 speed automatic Allison has more than crossed my mind.
Extremely pricey but the swap is a simple bolt in, especially with my 2wd, and is fully supported with a $$$PCS standalone controller.
2006+ 2wd Allison's are out there...

Then I just read a few threads on automatic transmissions and I get back to reality!

morkable

If you were ever to do that, I sure wouldn't go with an Alison. Not the best tranny IMO. Having owned one, they are slow shifting, not very strong, in fact you would already be past the tolerable HP limit for that tranny.. IMHO the ford has the best tranny on the market right now... the 5r110 and the 6r115 are brutes of trannys, extremely strong, excellent shifting, and reasonably speaking light (compared to a Ally) Personally I would never own a standard anymore, there are just too many good options for automatics out there now.

Tate

It started in the 3rd gen 6.7's, it was called the G56R. The input shaft and countershaft have a slightly different gear ratio, making gears 1-4,6 and reverse have slightly taller ratios. 5th is still direct. OD in the G56 is 0.79, OD in the G56R is 0.73.

StealthDiesel

There are many built 6 speed Allison's out there doing just fine behind powerful Duramax's.

My criteria for an auto swap would be 6 gears, fully supported and common bolt in swap, fully supported and common standalone controller.
That pretty much leaves the 6 speed Allison.


The Dodge 68RFE and Aisin 6 speed auto's will bolt behind the Cummins but no aftermarket controllers are available.
I think that Dodge may abandon the 68RFE for the Aisin though and it may become an orphan.
I'm not sure if there are aftermarket controllers for the Ford 6R115 yet.


The cost of a used 6 speed Allison plus getting it built plus the aftermarket PCS controller plus the adapter plate would push $10k for this swap, less what I sell my NV5600 for.
Definitely not worth it & I have absolutely no plans to do this but I like the research.

Mike Holmen

Joe, just to throw this out the best fix for your truck would be to run 3.42 gears instead of the 3.73 gears. In a daily driver/hauler stock truck haulin a heavy trailer I can see the reason, but in your truck there is no requirements (your truck is powered up pretty decently). Still I'm not sure if I would change gears, as money wise it would be hard to justify for an rv puller.

I'm not sold on the double overdrive that a 68rfe has. I have 3.73 gears and 33in tires in the 2010. At 120kph I'm around 1700rpm. Running around empty I get around 900-1100km's to a 34 gallon tank. Pulling an mid sized RV's around 12-15000 lbs, its a bear towing. I have to drive in fifth gear in the mountains and hills. Works well stock, of course more fuel/turbos would help pull/hold six gear better, but I sure my engine would overheat. My rv is tiny compared to yours.

As a RV pulling monster is would go 4.10's and the 68RFE all day long, on stock tires size. Stock engine as 99% of all 6.7's are. EGT's and coolant temps usually aren't that bad.

The 3/4 ton play truck with 4.10's, the 68RFE seems to work ok. Of course the H&S od tune helps. Of course these trucks run 35in or larger tires.