StealthDiesel

3.73's with my NV5600 and stock tires are just about perfect for my needs.
I can cruise empty in 6th gear with no issues.
I tow in the mountains in 5th gear (1:1) with no lugging or need to shift.
I can tow in 6th in flat Alberta with the trailer at 110km/hr+ (65mph+).

The 6th gear (OD) in the Allison is really deep. I would likely have to swap to 4:10's to use that trans for towing.

Here is the ratio comparison.

47/48RE 4spd auto: 3rd 1:1, 4th (OD) 0.69
NV4500 5spd manual: 4th 1:1, 5th (OD) 0.75
NV5600 6spd manual: 5th 1:1, 6th (OD) 0.73
G56 early 6spd man: 5th 1:1, 6th (OD) 0.79
G56 late 6spd man: 5th 1:1, 6th (OD) 0.74

68RFE 6spd auto: 4th 1:1, 5th (OD) 0.81, 6th (OD) 0.63
Allison 5/6spd auto: 4th 1:1, 5th (OD) 0.71, 6th (OD) 0.61


Which brings us back to Jason's new truck which IMO will be perfect with 68RFE/4:10's to tow with and he can easily install larger tires if he wants and still tow fine.
If he had 3.73's or even 3.42's he would have less options.

Mike Holmen

Not sure if anyone has noticed that you can't buy anything besides 3.42 in a SRW 2013 truck. You only get a gear choice with a DRW truck (3.42/3.73/4.1)

The AS68RC (aisin) will add around 7000-9000lbs to your towing capacity for a 2013. 5th gear is 0.77 and 6th gear is 0.63

A new 2013 3500 drw 4.10 AS68RC truck is rated at nearly 30000lbs. Hard to believe that but that's the new rating.

Not sure on how an Allison transmission would last behind a 5.9/6.7 pick-up truck engine without the proper engine de-fuelin on each shift.

To me the 4.10 get hard to handle for any empty long (12-16hrs) drives. My 02 truck with the 47re and 3.55 at 120kph is nearly 2000 rpms, and really needs another gear. I run 33in tires on the old girl, but that's me.

The 68RFE has a bunch of bad press, not sure why. With the right tune they last and work awesome. Originally when I bought my 2010 I drove around on thinking that the transmission would died. The stock 68RFE at the same power levels has outlasted my billet 47RE transmission, has actually been used to tow unlike the old girl.

Any body weigh there 4th gens. My 4th gen is a big boned girl and weighs around 7600 lbs area empty. My 02 weighs around 6700lbs.

morkable

I just towed my fifth wheel from FTM to Stony on the weekend.. 68rfe with 3 73 gears... it worked awesome, no power adders of any sort. My fifth wheel is a biggie, over 15k dry, I had my truck full of stuff, and the fifth wheel full of crap, so my guess is probably almost 17k. Truck pulled no problem. Stayed in 6th gear lockup almost the whole way, only time it didn't was on some of the steeper hills. I had no real problem keeping up to 110 even on the steeper hills. (not a luxury I had with my old duramax) It showed on the mileage meter that I was getting around 20l per 100 km, which in my opinion is pretty good for the size of the load, and the big sail I had on. I definitely need air bags though,, lol.

All in all very impressed with this truck

Busboy

It was that way at the start 3.42 with 18 inch wheels but 17 inch wheels were also an option along with 20 inch, then for a short time they gave a gear choice but anything other than 3.42 and it dropped the wheel size from 18inch to 17inch automatically. Now the only choice is 3.42 and the 17 inch wheel option is gone and 18 inch is standard with choices of 18inch and a 20 inch. From what my son has said the Aisin 3.42's with 18 inch is a great pairing.

Bankdude

Same observation here.

I traded my 03 in for a 12 in May. Been pulling my trailer around Southern AB (no mountains). Same weight as yours. Stock except bags added which were an obvious (big 7 inch sag) requirement the first time I hooked up. Runs cool, tranny temp is stable, no power issues, easy to hold 110km/hr occassional downshift on bigger hills. I was expecting worse and am impressed with the truck.

Only real complaint is the mileage. I have about 2500 km on it, 95% towing and am averaging around 23.4 L/100km or 10.1 MPG. Started out around 8MPG and has gotten slowly better, but would sure like to see 12 mpg some day without having to do any mods.

morkable

My truck just took a big upward swing in the fuel milage dept. I am just over 4 k Kms now. The fuel mileage (pulling the trailer) dropped down to 20.5l/100km (about 12-13 mpg) and empty it is now always in the low 15's, unless I get caught in some heavy traffic in town. I believe that is close to 20 mpg. I am not unhappy with that at all, considering the size of the truck and the way I drive,, LOL.

It is amazing how much they sag when you put a big load on them isn't it... I am going to be putting air bags on mine here shortly,, but even with the sag it still drove and handled beautifully with the big load on it

Mike Holmen

Not sure if I have posted this before, but you guys with the new 4th gen trucks, unplug the blow-by from the valve cover going into the turbo inlet. Install a plug into the turbo inlet line. This will keep the turbo from filling up with oil.

My 2010 way back before the deleted days, wouldn't get much above the 14-15mpg (from the evic). Towing was around 8-12 mpg depending on head winds/hills. The CEL light was when I left the dealer. Most of the time I smelt like something was burning inside the truck. The factory remote start system wouldn't work with the CEL. Unplugging the EGR solenoid helped to improve fuel mileage.

These days, I can't remember when I had a cel. The remote start system works fine but you have to be within 15 feet of the truck.

The factory fob is junk and half the time it takes a dozen times to open the door. Hopefully dodge has fixed this problem for the newer trucks.

magiriano

Got my Firestone airlift on Amazon $275 shipped to Sweetgrass. 60 mins to install didn't need to take the wheels off. Made a big difference, haven't towed yet but it rides nice empty. Will keep posted abt towing.

morkable

When you plug this line, where do you route the other line so that it doesn't blow oil all over the engine? The remote on my truck seems to have reasonable distance, not extreme or anything, but 1 to 200 feet ish.

What did you use as a programmer when you unplugged the EGR? I want to do this, but probably going to give it a little bit for it to break in etc.

Tate

I had 4k lbs of concrete in the back of my truck last week, it was sitting hard on the bumpstops. Really regret not reinstalling the overload springs when I did the suspension in the fall. Now I'm thinking of air ride and four link in the back of this truck too, for such occasions.

morkable

I think you should do it,, then help me 4 link my race truck,, lol

Bankdude

I am pulling to the States in Aug. Hopefully by the time I get back I will see an improvement. Should be over 4k KM's by then. I would be happy with those numbers. Heres hoping.

Mike Holmen

You can unplug the egr solenoid without a programmer, you will just get a cel. Unplugging the egr solenoid will prevent the truck from doing a full regen cycle (basically dumping soot into the intake plenum) and doing a complete cleaning cycle of the dpf. Some guys gain 1-3 mpg just unplugging the egr (I'm not 100% sure if its real world as that value comes off the evic). Some guys install 100 ohm resistors into the exhaust egt sensor and use there obdII code clearer for the random codes)

There is two code free delete programmers H&S (XRT/mini) and the RaceME. The exhaust is a simple home fix either add a chunk of exhaust or buy a complete exhaust system.

For new trucks I would do the stealth delete, just leave all the underhood stuff in place and use the add a chunk of 4in to remove dpf and the 2nd cat.

To do a complete code free

Mike Holmen

Tate I remember you going on and on about how your freshly painted truck will not be used for haulin stuff any more and the extra rear wheel was added for those big chunky girls that give you that big smile.